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Poly vs rubber engine mounts

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nixit

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Bridgport, TX
who's running polys can you feel any difference?
are there more vibrations and noise transferred to the frame and body

Dose response feel crisper? I want to have a nice solid feel, but I don't want extra noise.

I know its a K5 and its inherently big and loud and ruff around the edges, there is a certain beauty to that. But I'm going a different direction this time
 
Yep, it's not even about vibration or noise. When you throw on a new pair of rubber engine mounts and find them broken less than 800 miles later, you question the option. The offroading takes a toll on the mounts. I went DIY4x and haven't looked back.

Do I notice anything on the street? (never really had rubber mounts long enough to compare) But with 38s, no doors, and 75mph.... who cares? :D
 
nixit said:
who's running polys can you feel any difference?
are there more vibrations and noise transferred to the frame and body

Dose response feel crisper? I want to have a nice solid feel, but I don't want extra noise.

I know its a K5 and its inherently big and loud and ruff around the edges, there is a certain beauty to that. But I'm going a different direction this time
Click to expand...

i installed poly diy4x mounts just for the fact that i figured they would last a while compared to the cheap rubber ones. Also, make sure if you install poly engine mounts that you have a poly trans mount as well. You want either both mounts to be rubber or both to be poly, when you mix and match, they vibrate and different levels and bad things can happen :doah:
 
wage92 said:
i installed poly diy4x mounts just for the fact that i figured they would last a while compared to the cheap rubber ones. Also, make sure if you install poly engine mounts that you have a poly trans mount as well. You want either both mounts to be rubber or both to be poly, when you mix and match, they vibrate and different levels and bad things can happen :doah:
Click to expand...
Yeah I heard you gotta do both.
I don't have allot of off-road experience but if yall say rubber doesn't last I'll definitely go poly.
 
I did the poly clam shell inserts simply because my big block was sitting lower than it should. While I was in there I did the poly trans mount, can't say I felt a difference but I can tell the motor doesn't torque as bad in the frame as it did with the rubber.
 
you wont notice, go poly.... ALL 3...


now, solid mounts, whole nother ballgame there! :eek1: :popcorn: :pimp: :haha:
 
used to run my 340 mopar's like that... :pimp: nasty... :haha:
 
When we put the motor back in my truck we did factory rubber replacement mounts, then less than six months later while chasing a vibration I did the trans mount in rubber as well. About 4 months later I was under the and noticed the motor mount was completely collapsed and I was getting the vibration again.
Did the diy4x motor and trans mount and never looked back, from a seat of the pants it always felt like it pulled harder when you can off the clutch. Couldn't watch the transfer case shifter lean 2-3 inches right when you pulled off from a red light hard anymore haha.
 
wage92 said:
Also, make sure if you install poly engine mounts that you have a poly trans mount as well. You want either both mounts to be rubber or both to be poly, when you mix and match, they vibrate and different levels and bad things can happen :doah:
Click to expand...

Just to clarify you can run what ever you want on the transmission technically. The engine mounts dictate the control on the twist in the drivetrain. The centrally located trans/tcase mount doesn't have all that much say in how much things twist. You won't crack an adapter or bell housing having poly motor mounts and a rubber trans mount.

Obviously you might as well do them all for longevity sake though.
 
K85 Octane said:
Yep, it's not even about vibration or noise. When you throw on a new pair of rubber engine mounts and find them broken less than 800 miles later, you question the option. The offroading takes a toll on the mounts. I went DIY4x and haven't looked back...
Click to expand...

Wish there were some available for the GMT800 trucks. My 8.1L tears the OEM mounts up in no time.
 
I believe all C/K/R/V's 1985 up until who knows when (1995?) use the same trans mount.

I used energy suspension motor mounts, part number 3.1116G. Note that some of the "cheap" aftermarket mounts won't let you put the poly blocks in them. They should, but some of them are stamped differently for some reason.

Can not tell a difference with poly at engine and trans, other than the 205 shifter doesn't torque and hit the body anymore when I get on it.
 
dyeager535 said:
Can not tell a difference with poly at engine and trans, other than the 205 shifter doesn't torque and hit the body anymore when I get on it.
Click to expand...

Mine was so bad when it was in 4wd it would let the front drive shaft lay into the cross member.
 
Stomis said:
Just to clarify you can run what ever you want on the transmission technically. The engine mounts dictate the control on the twist in the drivetrain. The centrally located trans/tcase mount doesn't have all that much say in how much things twist. You won't crack an adapter or bell housing having poly motor mounts and a rubber trans mount.

Obviously you might as well do them all for longevity sake though.
Click to expand...

yea thats a good point, does make sense :thumb:
 
Stomis said:
Just to clarify you can run what ever you want on the transmission technically. The engine mounts dictate the control on the twist in the drivetrain. The centrally located trans/tcase mount doesn't have all that much say in how much things twist. You won't crack an adapter or bell housing having poly motor mounts and a rubber trans mount.

Obviously you might as well do them all for longevity sake though.
Click to expand...

Yep, I've been running this way for ~4k miles. Not easy street miles either. So if you have a new trans mount, use it until it lets you down. Either swap in another rubber one or go poly. I'll probably try poly next time around. When built my crossmember, I made damn sure I can use whatever stock mount I can find.
 
Stomis said:
Just to clarify you can run what ever you want on the transmission technically. The engine mounts dictate the control on the twist in the drivetrain. The centrally located trans/tcase mount doesn't have all that much say in how much things twist. You won't crack an adapter or bell housing having poly motor mounts and a rubber trans mount.
.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I found this thread as im about to replace a set of stock motor mounts with "HD" stock motor mounts from rock auto. I was all in on the poly motor mounts till I check the price on stock stuff. Ive been wheeling nearly 15 years and this is the first motor mount ive broke. Both mounts were less than 15 bucks shipped to my door. I figure at that rate, I need to break alot more to warrant 100 dollar poly mounts. Now if I break this set in the next year or 2 its going to be a whole new ball game.

Now back to what I was orginally saying before getting side tracked. Im putting these new rubber motor mounts in for my next trip. After that trip im intalling a doubler that already has poly mounts. From what your saying here I shouldnt run into any issues correct? The doubler has 2 polly mounts BTW, the adapter foot and the rear of the 205.
 
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