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Poly vs rubber engine mounts

Like mentioned, replaced the Trans mount as well, they are super easy to do. I went with Poly on motor and trans, I get just a lil more vibration but nothing too bad. Everything felt more solid.
 
summit racing 2 engine mounts to replace stock in the factory insert + 1 85-up poly tran/tcase mount to my door few weeks ago just over $100 bucks .

so the 100 buck engine mounts are just the SUPER beefy stuff like diy4x / ord and such .

a lot of guys have been saying these china / india / replacement engine mounts blow out quick and just plain suck .
 
I have Polly replacements in the truggy. Saying that I still don't believe all the hype. I will keep this thread updated with my rubber mounts after each trip (6 times a year) if/ when they break I will be honest and fess up. Remember I'm on tons with 44s and run the hard trails so I'm not easy on my stuff.
 
I blew out "anchor" brand engine mounts within 5 years, and I've probably got 30K miles on this thing in a decade. At the time I think "anchor" was supposed to be the top of the line aftermarket rubber mounts, or so the marketing claimed. Made in India as I recall.

Same problem with the 454 in a K20, although it had more miles. About the same time frame.

GM rubber mounts? Last 20+ years and 100K+ miles easily.
 
I blew out "anchor" brand engine mounts within 5 years, and I've probably got 30K miles on this thing in a decade. At the time I think "anchor" was supposed to be the top of the line aftermarket rubber mounts, or so the marketing claimed. Made in India as I recall.

Same problem with the 454 in a K20, although it had more miles. About the same time frame.

GM rubber mounts? Last 20+ years and 100K+ miles easily.

For a non driven trail rig if these mounts (not sure the brand) last 5 years, I will most defintley buy another set. For the price of a polly set Id have to go through 8 sets or 40 years of wheeling.If I never worked on stuff or it was a street rig I might make another decision but similiar to a race car my truck is pulled down almost completely at least once a year.
 
you keep saying price . . . .

what did you pay shipped for 2 engine and 1 trans for the replacement rubber stuff ?

might help others understand better later .
 
I got ~2/3 of a trip out of my brand new rubber motor mounts last time I had rubber mounts (been almost 10 years). Seriously, new mounts 6 months before, replaced bad ones, and didn't make it two days before killing another rubber set.

IMO, the problem is that with a flexy frame, the rubber mounts try to take up the extra movement and just aren't up to it and collapse. Like I said, I've killed several sets of rubber mounts (a couple in less than a year, and the one set that didn't last a weekend) and urethane has been golden since.
 
My issue was a-cost, thats extra money in my pocket to go wheeling this month. B- I cant go to poly right now as I dont want to invest in a poly mount for this trans as its coming out next trip in favor of a th400 I have sitting in the floor.

If/When these mounts break I will glady post up and confess that yall are right. This is more of an experiment for me than anything else.
 
Interesting. I found this thread as im about to replace a set of stock motor mounts with "HD" stock motor mounts from rock auto. I was all in on the poly motor mounts till I check the price on stock stuff. Ive been wheeling nearly 15 years and this is the first motor mount ive broke. Both mounts were less than 15 bucks shipped to my door. I figure at that rate, I need to break alot more to warrant 100 dollar poly mounts. Now if I break this set in the next year or 2 its going to be a whole new ball game.

Now back to what I was orginally saying before getting side tracked. Im putting these new rubber motor mounts in for my next trip. After that trip im intalling a doubler that already has poly mounts. From what your saying here I shouldnt run into any issues correct? The doubler has 2 polly mounts BTW, the adapter foot and the rear of the 205.

No that would be bad eventually. It only works one way. The twist in the drivetrain comes down the line from the engine. What ever hardness you harness the engine with whether its poly, delrin, aluminum, or a damn block plate the transmission/transfercase needs to be the same or softer.

If you run rubber motor mounts and poly trans / tcase bushings the rubber at the motor is going to allow more give and the poly down the line is going to say "eh no I dont move that much". If you're lucky you'll break the poly mount, if you're unlucky a bellhousing, adapter, tcase etc.
 
So today marks the day where I installed my $hittastic 12 dollar mounts. Like I said I will keep this updated as to when the where out as we all know it will happen eventually. Anything is better than what I pulled out.

11392786_10153395117036323_3657800310262195495_n.jpg
 
I'm picking this thread back up because I need motor mounts. Is the general consensus that the Energy 3.1116 poly inserts with stock clam shells is the way to go? I'm not going to buy the $3 mounts off RockAuto or anything from the chain stores. AC Delco 22188497 is about $85 per side right now. Is NOS AC Delco better than the new ones? They do pop up on eBay since they were used in so many vehicles. If the originals made it 30 years (I think these started failing a few years ago), it's not a bad design. Is the old 6262208 Delco the same thing?
 
i tend to like my energy suspension stuff.

files the whole clam shell unlike stock ever did . still has give but much firmer .
 
Fill with Energy or go DIY4x/ ORD. Don't bother with anything else, ESPECIALLY if you offroad the thing.
 
Anybody have pictures of the 3-bolt next to 4-bolt style?
 
The package says:
Part number 3.1116 inserts into the 4-bolt outer metal shell (4 bolts or rivets on each side). Part number 3.3121 inserts into the 3-bolt outer metal shell (3 bolts or rivets on each side).

This is the stock GM SBC/6.2L mount:
22188497
nal-22188497_xl.jpg


Isn't this actually what's called the 4-bolt mount, though?

And this is really the 3-bolt, aka BBC mount?

T70730.JPG


The product description must refer to number of bolts on each side of the engine, not the number of holes on each side of the bracket.
 

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