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por15 or rust bullet

por15 or rust bullet

  • Total voters
    23
jpdrake

jpdrake

1/2 ton status
Joined
Oct 31, 2005
Posts
381
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2
Location
mass/ cape cod
"POR-15, Inc., the World’s leading manufacturer of permanent rust preventive coatings"
www.por15.com/

"Rust Bullet Beats POR 15 And Other Market Leaders In independent Laboratory Testing"
www.rust-bullet.com/

"Factory Direct Paint Savings that will knock your socks off!"
http://www.magnetpaints.com/

"So before investing the time and effort into your next auto restoration, industrial maintenance, or home corrosion project, remember [SIZE=+1]K B S or Klean - Blast - Seal...[/SIZE]it's your formula for success! Guaranteed! "
www.kbs-coatings.com

whos used what and how much did it cost?
 
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I couldn't decide between them so I went with Eastwood's 3 step process. However, I haven't put it on the truck yet...
 
Rust Bullet. I used it on the underside of my bed & rear half of my frame last fall. Two coats per instructions then a coat of satin black. This stuff covers very well and went farther than I thought it would.
 
I have used both, and costs are close. It does go farther than you think it would. I just used the Rust Bullet a few weeks ago, so durabililty testing hasn't been achieved yet for me. The POR-15 I've used for a couple years now, and unless you scrape it off on a rock or something it is very durable. Road debris, and even hitting it with a hammer hasn't made it come off. I have found that if you don't completely seal the area with the stuff, it allows moisture to get underneath and it will peel.
 
with any luck im hoping to be able to do the tub on a rotisarrie and the frame and axels sandblasted in a colaspable garage then depending upon the prep involed "bullet or por15" the frame and undercarige, then should i linex them on top of the rust profing or is that pissing $ away? then roll them both into the garage and build up from there.

if you look up my sn in you'll find my pics
 
jpdrake said:
any pics? how much did you spend?
Click to expand...
Just under $90 for four quarts w/ shipping. Don't put it on anything you dont want it on. Once it dries its there. No pics but should have taken some. Maybe this spring when I do a cab swap and finish the frame.

I wouldnt waste $$ on line-x. I just rattlecanned over my rustbullet(liked a black frame better than a silver one) The only thing I wish I had done was remove all of the hangers/x members to totally coat the frame. several spots had scale on 'em that I couldn't coat to my satisfaction.
 
Ive used both rust bullet and por15... heres a little secret... there's something better than both of them. Its called chassis saver from a company called magnetic paints. http://www.magnetpaints.com/

I've used it on the frame of my truck as well as a rusted out radiator core and its amazing. Also, it is WAY CHEAPER! maybe $35/quart

chassissaver.jpg


Radiator_support.jpg


Trans_crossmember1.jpg
 
jpdrake said:
with any luck im hoping to be able to do the tub on a rotisarrie and the frame and axels sandblasted in a colaspable garage then depending upon the prep involed "bullet or por15" the frame and undercarige, then should i linex them on top of the rust profing or is that pissing $ away?
Click to expand...

If your going thru the trouble to sandblast it, why not put a better system on...

Some rust, used, etc frame, that stuff is great.. but fresh steel will hold up better with a zinc, epoxy, urethane system..
 
all the posts ive read say por15 or bullet would last longer then paint wont chip or flake off after time. only reason i wanted to sandblast was to have a smooth finish. all the pics ive seen looks like the texture of the rust. more likely that salt, dirt stick to a ruff surface then a smooth one. right?
 
general consensus isn't always right...

Lot of uninformed people in this world, the power of advertising and all..

All hail, the miracle products, Por 15 and RB!!!!!!!! :bow: :haha: :bow: :haha:

But what do I know..... :crazy:
 
hey i cant sit here and admit i know what im taking about b/c i dont, i apprecite your opinion!!

the one good thing is the ability to brush it on as oposed to sraying it on....?
if i spayed id have to make a spray booth right? and a decent gun and evaperator.
 
Sure, never said it was the cheapest or easier method...Just a better process...

yup, RB goes on nice with a brush, covers a ton, hides lots of stuff, very easy to apply, and safe unless of course you get it on your HOOTUS!
 
I put the chassis saver on with a foam brush. The stuff coats so well you never see the brush strokes. That radiator support in the pic was brushed on and you'd swear it was sprayed. You dont waste so much brushing either.
 
Your right, if you have the advertising $$$ one can make their product look like the best thing since sliced bread. We used to use porcrap until we found a product no one has mentioned here yet...KBS Rustseal. www.kbs-coatings.com the stuff is more user friendly than porcrap, adheres better, stands up to sun better (still recommends a topcoat), comes in 8 colors, and is 10% less than rb and 15% less than por.

2 buddies and I went to a swap meet in the Houston area where there was three por venders and one kbs rustseal guy. The kbs guy was swamped with people while the por guys were dusting off their cans. The guys around the kbs were all chirpin' about how good it was and less expensive. So we gave it a try and are very pleased. pictures to come.
 
thats good to know!!! so far i thought por15 was the way to go <for about $500> lets see those pics!!
 
I might have a pic of the inner fenders I did with the chassis saver, I'll check tonight. They look better than brand new right now. They were all rusty, I scuffed up the surface and foam brush painted them. the chassis saver fills all the pors and has a glass smooth finish. If its something thats giong to be in direct sunlight you should topcoat it though as it does fade in direct sunlight, but it never loses its rust proofness. You can paint over some REALLY bad rust too and it will NEVER rust again. I swear by this stuff! its awsome. My frame looked like it needed to go to the scrap yard and I did the whole thing with chassis saver. Its sat outside for 2 NY winters before I moved to GA, and it looks like the day I painted it...

I think they still give away (or a small fee) samples of the chassis saver. Give them a call. They will send you a metal plate half coated in it too and you can see how flexable it is. You can bend the plate in half and the coating doesn't chip. Its a real hard finish too, you'd be surprised.
 
To dip or not to dip?

I have had great results on both of the restorations I have done using por15, but rather then sandblasing or wire wheeling I just take the parts (Yes I took the entire 65 chevy pickup frame) and get them acid dipped. There is no way you will miss any rust pockets between frame components or inside a door when you dip the parts then seal them up with por15 or somthing like it. I spent about $1000 getting my last truck done (frame, bed rails, body tub, doors, hood and fenders) and was VERY pleased with the results.
 
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