What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Post up yer crossover parts

Originally I had a junkyard 2wd steering box, pre-81 that was later changed out for a PSC box. F-150 pitman arm that was reamed to accept the bigger 1 ton draglink ends. WFO double ended steering arm (tie rod behind the axle) and a slightly bent (Z) draglink. Running hydro-assist as well.
 
The F-150 Drop Pitman arm does not need to be reamed, it already has the correct taper for a 1-ton tie rod end.
 
bigge said:
The F-150 Drop Pitman arm does not need to be reamed, it already has the correct taper for a 1-ton tie rod end.
Click to expand...

But not a draglink end. As you know...:D There won't be enough thread engagement to install the cotter pin.
 
I have the Superlift 1104 arm.

Steering arm, draglink and rockrod is Sky manufacturing. Little cheaper that ord, and I like that the whole arm is machined where as ORD's has the welded cap IIRC. Like mentioned above all are pretty close in price just personal preference really. I have had great business with Sky so i went with them again.
 
So what is the downside of using an arm with too much drop? I'm looking at an arm for a 79 ford that is designed for 6"-9" of lift. So its probably a 7" or 8" actual lift. I need to clear the cross over pipe on my banks sidewinder and it runs right in front of the cross member so i need some drop to clear it. What do you guys think?
 
I have a dana 60 in mine.
I bought a hi-steer arm from parts mike (eliminates the spring) $100
I used a 2wd steering box I already had $free
I used an extra 10 bolt tierod for a draglink the hollow kind with a threaded bung at each end (cut & welded). $free
pitman arm 79 ford van $free
I used a ford TRE at the pitman arm (ford to ford) that threaded into the chevy tierod and a chevy tierod end at the axle end.
so my cost is about $100
(it was more because I bought kingpins from parts mike at the same time.)

2 years of hard fun and no issues yet.

I did have a few powersteering pump issues as I also run hydroboost :doah:brakes.
I bought a reman pump for an 86 3500 2wd with 454 and hydroboost no more problems.
I can turn the 44s on pavement at idle with the heel of my palm, no problem.
 
I got this on ebay for 40 bucks , plus 7.50 to taper the hole , and 10 bucks shipping . And was going to pair it with a e150 arm form an 84 2wd Ford van I got at pick n pull for 16 bucks .

Then ended up with a hand-me-down high steer setup and traded it away :D

585d_1.JPG
 
Is there any difference in the various ford van arms? It looks like there was a model change or something in '82. Are all the pitman arms the same from 1/2T, 3/4T, and 1T ford E-vans from the 70s and 80s?
 
Is there a particular year or application of steering box that works better? I know that you use the 2wd box, but does a C30 have a stronger box than a C10 or does a 80's model provide more power than a 70's box?
 
Somebody will jump in with the year, but sometime in the late 70's to early 80's GM changed the hydraulic connection to the box. You'll want a box with the same connection so you don't need to get new lines made. Other than that I believe that all 2wd boxes are the same.
 
BGKYK5 said:
Somebody will jump in with the year, but sometime in the late 70's to early 80's GM changed the hydraulic connection to the box. You'll want a box with the same connection so you don't need to get new lines made. Other than that I believe that all 2wd boxes are the same.
Click to expand...

The input to the steering box changed also some time during the mid seventies.
I had to change the coupler on mine.
 
ORD kit here...
xover.jpg
 
Whats the distance CTC on your pitman arms?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom