Post up yer crossover parts

[kburb]

Steering box of a 2wd suburban not sure of the year
Pitman arm for a 80 3/4 ton ford van retaperd for GM TRE
Drag link and tie rod made local with ballistic tube adapters
ballistic hi steer arms
Gm tire rods from local auto parts store.

 

[K5cucvEOD]

This question was already asked but not properly answered. I also have a banks turbo on my K5 and the exhaust runs right infront of the crossmember. The sky crossover kit does not clear the exhaust pipe. Can I go with a bigger drop on my pitman arm? Any suggestions.

 

[gone huntin]

If using the Superlift F150 arm do you still need a 2wd box?

 

[BGKYK5]

If using the Superlift F150 arm do you still need a 2wd box?

Yes. It won't fit the splines of the 4WD sector shaft.

 

[owenst7]

Mines a Dana 60. I had a cracked crossmember when I bought the truck so that was swapped out for an ORD unit early on. I'm also running my 52"s from out back in the front and have the axle moved an inch forward (all the way on the b52s).

I dropped a 2wd sector shaft in and am running the ford van arm from mid 70s to very early 80s e series. I've been pulling them when I find them for spares/other people and have seen a couple on the early 80s vans with square headlights.

I'm running ballistics springless hi steer arms but decided not to run hi steer due to knuckle concerns with the assist (surplus center ram and kert's cap) in the rocks. There were some clearance concerns there too...not that it wouldn't fit but just that it was crowded enough as it is. The pitman arm clears everything by around 4 inches but routing hydro lines and working under there was going to frustrate me.

I went ahead and reamed my pitman for a gm DLE. Didn't pay much attention to what it was tapered for, but I posted the measurements at some point in the for sale forum.

My steering arms are too long and I lost some turning radius. Not enough to really bother me, but I'll probably make some shorter copies of this design eventually. Running a longer pitman would not be a good choice because the drag link already slightly angles back and I'd like to go forward more at some point. The ballistic arms are really long and the tie rod hole is actually exactly the right length for my drag link, but I don't want to ream that or they won't be any good to sell used in the future for someone elses hi steer.

I made my drag link from 1.5" x .250" DOM with welded inserts and my tie rod is threaded 1.5" x .375" DOM. I run ES2234r on both sides of my tie rod and ES2026r on both sides of my drag link. I've had trouble locally with DLEs and TREs being stocked well (I always find them, but not always at the first store I try). With all rh thread, I just have spares that fit anywhere when I break something on a Saturday night. I noticed the dodge ES2010 l/r TREs are always special order around here and they're the same strength as ES2234r anyway. es2233l is the long weak one with the stabilizer hole.

 

[jwilson76]

I'm using a steering arm from ORD for my D60.


The steering box I'm using is a 2WD box from a late 80's S-10. I still need to decide on a pitman arm for it. The length of it is fine but I'm concerned with the strength (suggestions are welcome). I built my frame from 2x4 .120 tubing and this allowed me to put the steering box where I needed it. I plated both sides of the frame with 1/4" plate to strengthen around the box.


My draglink and tierod will be made of 1.25"x .120"chromoly. I still have to decide on the ends. I'll be adding a hydraulic assist from PSC when I can afford to send the box to West Texas Offroad and buy my ram from PSC. I already have their pump, reservoir, and lines from full hyro set-up that I had.