CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Post Your Strange Trail fixes That Work!

was on my way to a camping trip when my '75 pickup acted like it ran out of gas, but i had just filled it up. the next day my freind and i replaced the fuel pump on the side of the road, but it still wouldnt run. so we used one of the heater hoses to siphon some fuel out of one tank and put it into the other tank (1st tank must have something in it) and it fired right up. havent used that tank since then.

Bar of soap rubbed over the hole in a gas tank works great. i think my buddys dodge charger still has the soap in the hole. :haha:
 
was on my way to a camping trip when my '75 pickup acted like it ran out of gas, but i had just filled it up. the next day my freind and i replaced the fuel pump on the side of the road, but it still wouldnt run. so we used one of the heater hoses to siphon some fuel out of one tank and put it into the other tank (1st tank must have something in it) and it fired right up. havent used that tank since then. :haha:

Possibly a bad tank transfer valve? Its been a long time since I've messed with them but I believe that the rh tank is the default tank so that if the transfer valve fails it switches back to or stays with the rh tank. If you were running on the lh tank and the valve failed it would go back to the rh tank.

Gus
 
i did not know that. it is the right hand (passenger) tank that works. :thinking:
thanks
 
Pulled up to starting line and noticed front end was not locked even though hubs were in the correct position. Pulled locking hub and found spring would not engage sliding mechanism on axle.We took a lid from a Skoal can and cut hole in center to slip over axle shaft and trimmed edges to fit in hub (wedged in with screwdriver and pliers) and reinstalled locking hubs and were able to make our runs and load on trailer.
 
got stuck boggin with 39.5 MT's axles in the mud, used a 2ft piece of log and a chain wrapped around it through the wheel to "limp" out, actually worked pretty well but DO NOT attempt with anything but steel wheels
 
got stuck boggin with 39.5 MT's axles in the mud, used a 2ft piece of log and a chain wrapped around it through the wheel to "limp" out, actually worked pretty well but DO NOT attempt with anything but steel wheels

131_0803_16_z+1977_2007_ads+winch_wheels.jpg
 
HAHAHA @ the winch wheels

I would seriously put one of those on my truck just to randomly start up conversations exactly like this thread. I bet I would meet all kinds of interesting people by doing it, lol. Keep this thread going, I'm learning alot of stuff in here!
 
It can get expensive, but if you are in a bind you can actually weld with quarters instead of welding rods... I actually welded a leaf spring back togeather using this method and made it back to camp.
gabe
 
I read about this as a kid.then finally i got to put it to practice...i started my truck with a chainsaw!!! my girlfriend thot i lost my mind.we were out gettin wood and usin the wench and ran the battery down and we were high on the mountain with no way out but to walk and i remembered what i read when i was a teenager and took the blade off the saw and the belt off the alternater and connected the belt to the drive gear for the chain and spun the thing till it charged the battery enough to start the truck! my girlfriend was amazed and i was glad we didnt have to walk down the mountain.--------p.s. make sure the key is in the running position before you spin the alternater:wink1:


That is an awesome fix!
 
I busted a front axle on my Sub(D60) and had to remove it. To plug the axle tube I cut a Dr Pepper bottle up and used the conical top half with the lid still screwed on it shoved in the hole. I put a bead of RTV around the circumfrense of the tube to seal it up and keep the bottle top in. I ran this way for several months(to includea trip from AL to TX) and never leaked any diff fluid.
 
One time while wheeling, the bolt holding the front leaf spring to the shackle broke and fell out. Half of the poly bushing came out of the spring too, and was lost to the bottom of a mud hole. After standing around and wondering how to fix it, I grabbed a 1/2" drive socket (3/4 IIRC) and it fit perfectly in the spring eye. I threw it in there and drove it back down the trail and everyday for the next 2 weeks until I could get a new superlift bushing ordered. The socket is back in my toolbox, still in good shape.
 
3 Weeks ago, my buddy in his 98 Heep grand cherokee snapped a chromoly 8.8 rear driveshaft 3 miles from the closest road. It has c-clip eliminators and a bunch of other good guy parts in the axle, the only problem is- it snapped about 3 or 4" off the wheel flange. It looked like an IFS front end with a broken ball joint:crazy: We pulled the shaft out, looked at it, had a beer and picked up what was left of the needle bearings (which were then held in with RTV, race was actually ok) And took his 4 d-cell maglite, pounded it over one end of the broken shaft, the pounded the other piece of broken driveshaft into the other end of the maglite. Wrapped the piss out of the shaft halves with duct tape top keep them from walking up and down too much, slipped the shaft back in and limped off the trail. Worked great enough to get him off the trail and onto a waiting trailer:wink1:

If only they made a maglite that was big enough to sleeve my 14bff shafts:thinking::haha:
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom