Same snap ring pliers here, probably only Snap On tool I have. It's perfect for the job, at the time (probably 10 years ago, dang), I couldn't find pliers like them anywhere else.
CK5
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Potent Rodent
- Thread starter Shawn
- Start date
New built engine, EFI, 4L80 transmission, t-case, brakes, hydroboost, tires/wheels and more!
Same snap ring pliers here, probably only Snap On tool I have. It's perfect for the job, at the time (probably 10 years ago, dang), I couldn't find pliers like them anywhere else.
Found some lock ring pliers at O-Reillys for $16. Harbor Freight was a no go.
Checked everything else and got it back together. Its finally shifting like it should now. Missing the front output shaft seal so I'll need to get that tomorrow and I may upgrade the bolts too.
Also added some JB Fab adjustable detent balls with their shift rails.
Checked everything else and got it back together. Its finally shifting like it should now. Missing the front output shaft seal so I'll need to get that tomorrow and I may upgrade the bolts too.
Also added some JB Fab adjustable detent balls with their shift rails.
Upgraded most of the bolts to grade 8. I almost did stainless but after researching, found stainless to actually be weaker than grade 5.
Also had to buy another 2 1/8" seal for the front flange.
Cable shifter brackets installed on shift rails, brass plugs installed.
Unfortunately I couldn't get the t-case mounted in the K5 due to the wrong figure 8 gasket. One I got is for the smaller bearing. I'm also questioning the adapter fitment since its not flush when you tighten it up. There's a 1/16" of a gap between adapter and t-case. I have 2 of them so I need to try the other one and see if I have the same issue.
Also had to buy another 2 1/8" seal for the front flange.
Cable shifter brackets installed on shift rails, brass plugs installed.
Unfortunately I couldn't get the t-case mounted in the K5 due to the wrong figure 8 gasket. One I got is for the smaller bearing. I'm also questioning the adapter fitment since its not flush when you tighten it up. There's a 1/16" of a gap between adapter and t-case. I have 2 of them so I need to try the other one and see if I have the same issue.
you MUST have a gasket for the fig 8 to 205 to fit correctly .
and i took and semi squished the small gasket to imprint it . then a fresh razor blade to cut out the un needed section and i had the big bearing gasket .
and i took and semi squished the small gasket to imprint it . then a fresh razor blade to cut out the un needed section and i had the big bearing gasket .
Good to know. When I tightened the bolts on the adapter to tcase, I could still slide the new (smaller) gasket in between the gap so that doesn't seem right. If I can't find the larger gasket then I'll do what you suggest with the razor blade. I have a used one that fits so I assume they still make it.
Interesting tidbit...
I found my "other" NP205 gasket in the garage. It is the correct size for the larger bearing and interestingly, its twice as thick as the other one that was too thin. So my adapter should be ok. The thicker gasket with the larger hole for the bearing came from ORD (left). The thin gasket with the smaller bearing hole came from JB Fab in a seal kit (right). The numbers on the gaskets are just the full square gasket sheet part numbers before they are cut. N-8092 is thick, and N-8094 is thin. So don't use those sheet numbers to search for NP205 gaskets. If you need a good thicker gasket thats the correct size for the larger bearing, get it from ORD. I'd say its a full 1/16" thick. The thin one is about 1/32".
I found my "other" NP205 gasket in the garage. It is the correct size for the larger bearing and interestingly, its twice as thick as the other one that was too thin. So my adapter should be ok. The thicker gasket with the larger hole for the bearing came from ORD (left). The thin gasket with the smaller bearing hole came from JB Fab in a seal kit (right). The numbers on the gaskets are just the full square gasket sheet part numbers before they are cut. N-8092 is thick, and N-8094 is thin. So don't use those sheet numbers to search for NP205 gaskets. If you need a good thicker gasket thats the correct size for the larger bearing, get it from ORD. I'd say its a full 1/16" thick. The thin one is about 1/32".
so many cheep out supplyers out there these days selling crap .
glad we got you pin pointed in the direction you needed.
glad we got you pin pointed in the direction you needed.
The 4L80 fully splined shaft was longer than it needed to be and should have cut it down while it was out but not hard to do when trans is bolted up the engine. I covered every hole with blue tape and used a hose clamp to help guide the cut off wheel to get an even cut. Did a slight bevel on the edges then followed with a wire wheel to clean any burrs. With the clocking ring, I had to make the shaft 5.1" in total length so about an inch had to come off.
Clocking Ring from TTF installed:
(image above for a small bearing 205, not mine)
Good amount of clearance gained when comparing to the bottom of the crossmember mount. Can be clocked more but would need to modify the tunnel area and passenger seat to fit.
Clocking Ring from TTF installed:
(image above for a small bearing 205, not mine)
Good amount of clearance gained when comparing to the bottom of the crossmember mount. Can be clocked more but would need to modify the tunnel area and passenger seat to fit.
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Is that a Model T roadster in the background?
Actually... 1923 Willys with a 454 BBC. Original body, 2000lbs. Pretty fun to drive. I may chop down the window so its half as high and lower the seat a little. Maybe add some nitrous after the K5 is finished. Use to be my brothers before he passed away after a tragic accident working on his other car. He'd want me to show it off so here it is last summer at a show close by.
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Cool hot rod Shawn! So sorry to hear about your brother, my condolences...
I would skip the lock washers on the adaptor . go lock nut over them . lock washers these days suck for quality .
and yes killer hot rod . nice to keep it all in the family .
and yes killer hot rod . nice to keep it all in the family .
Sorry about your brother. I'm sure he would be happy you're showing it off. I'd love to do something similar but with a flathead.
T-case and transmission FINALLY married! Added a billet PTO cover and added my own fill hole / plug.
Switched valves covers out with the "Chevrolet" aluminum pieces to give a little more gap to the turbo headers. Also added the DBW throttle body and Holley Elbow.
Unfortunately, the turbo header on the drivers side hits the vacuum booster. Looks like I may have to upgrade to Hydroboost brakes which is one more thing that will need to be done. Never ends!
Switched valves covers out with the "Chevrolet" aluminum pieces to give a little more gap to the turbo headers. Also added the DBW throttle body and Holley Elbow.
Unfortunately, the turbo header on the drivers side hits the vacuum booster. Looks like I may have to upgrade to Hydroboost brakes which is one more thing that will need to be done. Never ends!
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hydroboost better pedal tho . and dont require vac or storage can or pump like the vac brakes do .
Or find a smaller booster...which would be a ton easier.
I agree. Its one thing I was going to do eventually but not now with everything else that needs to be done. What hydroboost do you suggest? The standard booster that comes on the K30 or something different? Wondering if I need to change out the master too...
Might as well go hydroboost at that point for easier pedel feel. I think it sucks the master in a little too so its closer to the firewall.
I dunno, I think the master is still out there a fair bit. The hydro-boost isn't a super short set-up. G body boosters are a little smaller diameter, but should still give you enough vacuum to do the job...
