Potent Rodent

[Shawn]

@Shawn what is the port mod ? never heard much about this ?

I learned the hydroboost is designed to 'priority feed' pressure to the brakes, while simultaneously restricting pressure to the steering gear (especially under hard braking). Adding RAM assist only amplifys the loss of steering of hard braking and I verified this with Steve Watson which he does admit happening with his. It involves grinding an internal passage between the pump port & the gear port (so the spool valve couldn't restrict fluid flow).

By sending the core out to Vanco for complete rebuild and port, it helps with these things:
1) The ram-assist cylinder's fluid flow was no longer momentarily interrupted when braking.
2) The Hi-Flow modification makes the power steering fluid 'bleeding process' easier & faster.
3) The Hi-Flow hydroboost unit was no longer a slight 'fluid flow restriction'. It increases power to the steering like like its not even there.

From Vanco-
Hi-Flow Process - This is a process you’ll need if you add Rock-Ram, Ram-assist steering or full hydraulic steering. Rams use more fluid then a typical Hydroboost allows. So we at Vanco hi-flow the units internally to greatly increase the flow so any vehicle with these types of steering work perfectly.

Is it a must? No. But I figured while I have it out, I would get it done. I have visions of slamming on the brakes and not being able to swerve in a panic so if anything its more for safety on the road.

 

[sweetk30]

figured it was a flow mod for those few points but now i know the whole bag of info . thanks shawn

 

[sreidmx]

This is good info!!

 

[Shawn]

Got the booster back from Vanco. He got it Friday and had it ready to ship on Monday so he is quick on these rebuilds/port jobs. It was $450 which was a little high plus another $40 to ship it. Not to mention the my shipping charges of going there.

Had to blow off the expanding foam that was used to pack it. I wish he used a plastic bag to prevent the foam from getting in the ports. Looks like he got it cleaned up fairly decent and I'd guess sand blasting was used. Few corners were missed and the firewall plate still had some dirt/rust on it . I was also expecting for it to be painted for the money he charges. I covered the ports with blue tape and cleaned it some more with a small wire wheel and will toss some paint on it. As long as it puts out the pressure, I'll be happy.




Also got this Wilwood 1-1/8" master and adjustable proportioning valve. The only thing that sucks with the valve is you lose your pressure switch that lights up the dash light if you lose front or rear brakes. The pressure switch that comes with it is for taillights only which I won't be using and will probably just use a plug. The stock proportioning valve will be coming out.
.

 

[Shawn]

Hunting for brake line adapters....

Rear 9/16-18 is the hardest to find to adapt to -4AN

Found sizes of stock proportioning valve that is going away.

Bottom Front Port: 3/8"-24 IFF threads - goes to one front brake
Top Front Port: 3/8"-24 IFF threads - goes to one front brake
Middle Top Port: 1/2"-20 IFF threads - comes from master cylinder
Rear Top Port: 7/16"-24 IFF threads - comes from the master cylinder
Rear Most Port: 9/16"-18 IFF threads - goes to rear brakes

 

[folkenheath]

Try Speedway, they seem to have a lot of brake fittings, in stainless too.

I thought you were ditching that?

 

[Shawn]

Try Speedway, they seem to have a lot of brake fittings, in stainless too.

I thought you were ditching that?

I am ditching it. Just showing a picture of it to match the description of the ports in case others are doing the same. I already checked Speedway and no luck there. I can't believe nobody has a single 9/16-18 female to 4AN male adapter. Jegs had a sale going on their fittings and Aeroquip braided brake lines. I'll post the part #'s after I verify the rear fitting which may work with one of the Wilwood adapters that came with MC but still requires 2 fittings to work.

 

[folkenheath]

Why do you need a 9/16 female adaptor? If you are talking about a 1/4" hard line just change the fitting on the line to the smaller more typical size. If you need male to male for the master cylinder Fragola makes one...

Fragola 650406

 

[Shawn]

Why do you need a 9/16 female adaptor? If you are talking about a 1/4" hard line just change the fitting on the line to the smaller more typical size. If you need male to male for the master cylinder Fragola makes one...

Fragola 650406

Didn't want to want to mess with the OEM rear brake line, cutting it, and trying to get a flare tool in that area will be a pain. Trying to make it a bolt on procedure. I did find that fitting and I was just going to use a union to join the two. Wilwood also included a 9/16-18 to 1/2 adapter in my MC kit and they make 1/2 to 4AN adapter so I might do that.

 

[Shawn]

Looks like a union/joiner is needed for the 9/16-18 to 4AN fitting. Did not want to use the Wilwood 1/2" to 9/16" adapter since it requires alum. washer to seal the 1/2" side. Perfect for the master itself but not for brake line adapter.



Parts list in case anyone is doing something similar.

Two front brake lines - 3AN brake line, 48" Aeroquip FBPA0039-48 (two needed)
One rear brake line- 4AN brake line, 48" Aeroquip FBPA0040-48
One Rear brake line adapter - 4AN to 9/16-18 male fitting JEGS 100776
One Rear brake line adapter- 9/16-18 Female brake union/joiner Ebay (Brake Hoses Unlimited)
Two Front brake line adapters- 3AN to 3/8"-24 female fittings JEGS 100780 (two come in one package)
Two Front proportioning valve adapters - 3AN to 3/8"-24 male fittings JEGS 100760 (two come in one package)
One rear proportioning valve adapter - 4AN to 3/8"-24 male fittings JEGS 100761 (two come in one package, just need one)

 

[Shawn]

Got the fuel pump swapped out. Old pump was Walbro 255 LPH and is on the border line at 60psi of fuel pressure and desired HP around 500. It would probably be ok but I decided to go with a Walbro 450 LPH which handles up to 750hp alone. Instead of dropping the tank, I cut an access panel above the tank using the dimensions below. This will make it easier if I need to access the pump on the trail with a full tank. 120 volt grinder with a cut off wheel made quick work and was able to keep the cuts shallow to avoid cutting any lines below. Stock wiring to the pump was too thin so I had to run a separate 10 gauge wire which will go to a 40 amp relay. Using the stock pump wire to trigger the relay. The old hanger looked like it had a kink in the bend so I got a new shiny hanger and the metal bend looked better than the old OEM hanger plus it comes with all new rubber seals on the lines and large o-ring gasket. The new Walbro 450 pump actually fit the stock hanger nicely with a slight modification. Was not able to use the rubber piece that goes in the bottom so I used a hose clamp with a rubber fuel line around the metal tube it hangs from. This keeps the pump from going anywhere and level.



Template I used to cut


Slight kink in main fuel line.


Walbro 450 mounted to stock EFI fuel hanger.


Had to cut the bottom of the hanger bracket to allow more room for the inlet tube and the filter sock that attaches there.


Installed. Ignore the blue wire, I will actually be using the ECU wires to trigger relay. Thicker 10ga red wire for pumps power. Also added another 10ga ground.


EDIT:
The ECU triggers the fuel pump on the negative wire so I had to re-wire the relay like the one below. I went and used both wires from ECU and won't be using the factory pump wire like I was planning.

 

[Shawn]

FINALLY!!!

Got the engine started tonight but not without issues first. I had to re-wire the fuel pump relay so both pump wires from ECU were triggering the relay. Had fuel pressure but the engine was just cranking like it was getting no spark. Check the voltage at the coil and had nothing. The MSD ignition was getting 12v but not giving any to the coil. So bypassed that and something still not right. Got a backfire while cranking. Checked the distributor and sure enough, it was 180 out. Kicking myself making a novice mistake. Got it flipped around and it finally started. It only stayed running for 3 seconds. Played around with the fuel enrichment and its better. Shut it off since the fumes in the closed garage were getting bad. Will play with the Edelbrock ECU more tomorrow.

I still need to finish the following:
Hydroboost\Brakes
Trans/Tcase shifters with console
Hood, Grill, Headlights, Bumper, Winch

 

[Bent77]

Good to see you're on the good side of the ball

Saw the post about the coil. That was an interesting read, if not a disappointing one.

 

[Bent77]

Here was the coil discussion for you all following this thread and not the Edelbrock thread
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/edelbrock-proflo-4.335548/page-17#post-3969717

 

[sweetk30]

so how is it 2 guys do the same install / same wizard setup problem / almost the same ignition / dist problem and still get them running ? ?

 

[miniwally]

View attachment 296655

FINALLY!!!

Got the engine started tonight but not without issues first. I had to re-wire the fuel pump relay so both pump wires from ECU were triggering the relay. Had fuel pressure but the engine was just cranking like it was getting no spark. Check the voltage at the coil and had nothing. The MSD ignition was getting 12v but not giving any to the coil. So bypassed that and something still not right. Got a backfire while cranking. Checked the distributor and sure enough, it was 180 out. Kicking myself making a novice mistake. Got it flipped around and it finally started. It only stayed running for 3 seconds. Played around with the fuel enrichment and its better. Shut it off since the fumes in the closed garage were getting bad. Will play with the Edelbrock ECU more tomorrow.

I still need to finish the following:
Hydroboost\Brakes
Trans/Tcase shifters with console
Hood, Grill, Headlights, Bumper, Winch

How many years since it last ran, if it’s easier to round to the nearest decade please feel free to do so.

Very nicely done.

 

[CK5]

@Shawn 2003 I believe?

 

[Shawn]

Yeah stickers on plates say 2003. Little dissapointed I let it sit that long. My passion during that time was more speed and focusing on faster cars although I was slowly collecting engine / transmision parts for the K5 just not focusing all my spare time on the K5.

 

[AJs72K5]

View attachment 296655

FINALLY!!!

Got the engine started tonight but not without issues first. I had to re-wire the fuel pump relay so both pump wires from ECU were triggering the relay. Had fuel pressure but the engine was just cranking like it was getting no spark. Check the voltage at the coil and had nothing. The MSD ignition was getting 12v but not giving any to the coil. So bypassed that and something still not right. Got a backfire while cranking. Checked the distributor and sure enough, it was 180 out. Kicking myself making a novice mistake. Got it flipped around and it finally started. It only stayed running for 3 seconds. Played around with the fuel enrichment and its better. Shut it off since the fumes in the closed garage were getting bad. Will play with the Edelbrock ECU more tomorrow.

I still need to finish the following:
Hydroboost\Brakes
Trans/Tcase shifters with console
Hood, Grill, Headlights, Bumper, Winch

The number of times I've stabbed in the distributor 180* out is getting ridiculous.

 

[Shawn]

Good to see you're on the good side of the ball

Saw the post about the coil. That was an interesting read, if not a disappointing one.

Yeah I'm a little pissed they did that change on their coil. They will be giving me another coil but now I'm afraid to start the engine with the wrong coil. If my MSD didn't crap out it would be no big deal.

so how is it 2 guys do the same install / same wizard setup problem / almost the same ignition / dist problem and still get them running ? ?

No doubt! We've been hitting the exact same issues.

The number of times I've stabbed in the distributor 180* out is getting ridiculous.

Good to hear I'm not alone! LOL