Potent Rodent

[Shawn]

Finishing all the details that need to get done in order for it to drive on the road and other misc stuff. Some of its small, some of its not. I keep crossing off things then add more. Seems like the list never ends...

1 Booster and master install
2 tunnel metal block off plate
3 install console with tcase and trans shifter and cables
4 tcase oil fill
5 front and rear diff fill
6 tcase and axle vent tube
7 install rear shocks
8 temporary exhaust pipes
9 install headlights, fix wires under dash
10 coolant tank
11 wire fan relays
12 grommet for firewall
13 install rear zero rates
14 fix headliner
15 install missing console side trim
16 install hood
17 install new grill
18 paint and install front bumper
19 mount winch
20 mount trans dipstick handle

Both batteries are now wired up to the Hellroaring isolator and no sparks flew so thats a good sign.

New steering shaft in. When I had the column out, thought it would be a good idea to upgrade the shaft. Looked for some used Jeep Cherokee shaft. Found a new part for not much more on Amazon. The hardest part was getting the shaft to collapse. I used a MAP propane torch and was finally able to melt the plastic enough to separate it. There's not many good videos on this but I found one here that did a good job explaining. No cutting of the inner shaft required. Just had to grind a notch for the bolt pass through on the steering column and it went right in.

Part Number of shaft:


Power steering cooler all plumbed. If I had to choose again, I'd get one with less footprint since the top cooling line needs to be lower than the reservoir which I have mounted on radiator support as high as possible.


Currently focusing on making the PTFE lines and steel hose ends for the Hydroboost then I'll mount the Wilwood master.


Got this sucker mounted the other day but forgot to take picture. I like how it has the filter built into it compared to my last generic setup. They did not include the 3rd 6AN fitting so had to call PSC and order that. I also went and ordered a new pump cover from PSC since I welded the wrong -8AN fitting and not a -10AN for the pumps top reservoir fitting.


Still need to clean up this rats nest. Here you can see the new HB pedal. I had to get all the wires out of the way. Now I need to clean it up and remove any unnecessary wires. The old Viper alarm is not helping matters.

 

[Shawn]

BTW- This is the coil I ended up using with the Edlebrock Pro-FLo 4. MSD Part # 8223. This one makes it easier for the coil wire and is available at most stores including Pep Boys. Since the coil is close to distributor I tried a very short 4" wire but that did not turn out well and is way too short. Ended with a longer one that does half circle around distributor to the coil.

 

[nvrenuf]

Fyi, be sure to mount that coil vertically like pictured (you may have). I have one mounted horizontally and @Philly87 said it could create overheating issues with the internal windings not being submerged in oil.

 

[Shawn]

Good to know. I have it vertically next to distributor. No room on firewall.

 

[skunked]

Basically any oil filled coils should be upright, the epoxy filled models can be mounted anyway you want.

 

[Shawn]

Got the new master and hydroboost all hooked up. Still need to organize the lines and bleed the brakes along with bleeding booster, box and ram. Like how it turned out. Used -6AN PTFE and steel fittings for the hydroboost lines. What sucks is you cant rotate the 90 degree hose ends like the alum hose ends. They are solid so takes more time to get them flipped right. On the brake lines I used pre-made 4 foot -3AN for front and -4AN for rear along with adapters where the factory proportioning valve was.

 

[Shawn]

Been having to work on the house since it goes on the market very soon. Had to put the K5 on hold until house is ready.

 

[Shawn]

Little progress... Got the F150 center console installed. This was not an easy task to say the least. Lots of cutting and holes had to be drilled. The air body saw made it easy to cut the plastic while the cone shaped stepped bit work well for large holes.

Cup holder and stock shifter area had to be cut.


T-case shifter plate had to be cut and modified:


Hardest part was finding the correct location for the floor board holes. This method helped. Blue tape at the top of the picture is about where the shift cable brackets are.


T-case shifter had to go in first. Not an easy task with the stiff twin cables and trying to carefully attach cable ends to shifters.


Side shot of the shifters installed


Top view. I can't seem to find my other shift handle in my mess of a garage. It will show up sooner or later...


The F150 top tray can slide side to side for small things even with the cables installed.


You can see some holes had be re-drilled for proper cable placement. Too far in the middle means too close to the driveshaft.


Nice top storage area with USB charge ports at 12v at the top. With some wiring, its possible to integrate these with your stereo. Has a slider top cover.

 

[Shawn]

Had to do this quick fix for the Winters shifter. Cable was 1/2" too long. Moved the cable mount back 3/4".

Also got the t-case connected along with my missing shift knob and boot. The stainless top plate and inner metal boot plate was off from the holes drilled into the shifter mount. JB Fab issue. Will fix that later. Feels great!

Eventually will custom fab a cover plate that goes over the top of the console towards the front. Normally that part goes under the heater controls of the F150. I could cut that off but then the cubby slider won't work.









Also would like to re-locate the ARB switches to the center of the console like this some day-

 

[muddybuddy]

Looks sweet! Brake setup looks clean and so does center console

 

[Shawn]

Looks sweet! Brake setup looks clean and so does center console

Thanks!

Now if I can just get his bitch to bleed. Went through 2 quarts today using a Motive power bleeder with the larger top cover since the Wilwood is long. Made sure to remove the Eldorado calipers so the bleeders point up. Pedal still goes to floor after calipers are back on the rotors. I'll try again tomorrow.

 

[muddybuddy]

Maybe try flipping the caliper onto the rotor during bleeding, rather than leaving them hanging free. But not sure if you have enough slack in the lines to do that.

 

[sweetk30]

block of wood in between the pads .

and did you adjust the e-brake guts on the calipers ? this will give low pedal from what i have read .

 

[Shawn]

Maybe try flipping the caliper onto the rotor during bleeding, rather than leaving them hanging free. But not sure if you have enough slack in the lines to do that.

The lines are very short so not much slack. Today I used 2 pad spreaders and kept the rear calipers so nipples are pointing straight up and off the rotors until I know ALL the air is out and pedal is firm. Also tapped on each caliper with a brass hammer to dislodge any bubbles. Motive also suggests having the brake pedal pressed in 1/2 of travel so I did that too. I think its getting better. I'm going to take one more wack at bleeding then I think it might be ok. I'm use to my m1008 (k30) cast iron master so this Wilwood might have more travel. Bore is 1.12 and the biggest one they make in that model and is meant to be used for a booster.

block of wood in between the pads .

and did you adjust the e-brake guts on the calipers ? this will give low pedal from what i have read .

I just did the pad spreaders today and that seems to have firmed things up when I tested. Yesterday, one I had adjusted, the other one was not (on the rotors) so that might have been my issue. I still had some air come out the rears today so that may have been part of it.

 

[sweetk30]

one little bubble can get you every time .

 

[dhcomp]

Looks bad ass.

Skip those stupid little chain hook things. Too many leaks. Block of hard wood on top of plate, and a couple c clamps around the master works WAY better. Master is plenty strong enough to clamp some pressure on.

 

[Shawn]

Looks bad ass.

Skip those stupid little chain hook things. Too many leaks. Block of hard wood on top of plate, and a couple c clamps around the master works WAY better. Master is plenty strong enough to clamp some pressure on.

Thanks! The chains worked ok but it would be better to use a REAL small chain with real links and maybe some tubing to protect the aluminum master. On the 2nd time of bleeding, I ditched the wing nuts and used normal nuts with a deep well socket which was better. Both times, I never had problem sealing 15psi of pressure as long as each nut was fairly tight. Same goes for my M1008 when I bled that. Also, the larger plate uses 3 chains instead of two like the smaller one does which I think helps.

I thought about using the c-clamp method but 2 of my C-clamps got destroyed doing this. This is my free redneck fix to expensive mud jacking. LOL Both c-clamps together work fine. But when I tried to lift one side of the 10 foot long sidewalk to even it out, it bent the single clamp like it was putty.

 

[mrk5]

I would have thought they'd just break, and not bend nearly that far.

 

[Shawn]

I would have thought they'd just break, and not bend nearly that far.

I think they are just normal steel. One pictured, is from Harbor Freight. Another bent one I've had forever. Probably bought at hardware or parts store. I'll have to get some good replacements. But any good clamp with that much weight would have bent unless if it was hardened steel or something special. But it did work to get my sidewalk raised. They wanted $800-$1000 just to mud jack that small walk on one side.

 

[Shawn]

Another redneck hack.... Found a good use for my beer stein. Got tired using a plastic brake fluid bottle to catch the fluid. It kept tipping over since there was no weight to it or the hose would pop out. The stein is heavy glass and I used a binder clip to keep the hose in place.