What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Potent Rodent

New built engine, EFI, 4L80 transmission, t-case, brakes, hydroboost, tires/wheels and more!
Overview Gallery Discussion
6872xtc said:
Maybe I am not understanding you correctly. I wouldn't lower your timing numbers, crank it up! If you are at 15* , then it's only giving it 3*over what you have set with the distributor. Turn it up 5* at a time and see what happens.
Late timing can make it heat from what I have seen.
Click to expand...

mrk5 said:
I have my idle timing set somewhere around 26 like @6872xtc
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the input on timing. You never know it could be causing some of the heat. Just got the fan delivered today so now I have to pull the damn radiator out to mount it up. Fun fun. I just want to drive the damn thing. Is that too much to ask for? LOL

Really appreciate it guys!!

Also, looks like Edelbrock can walk you through the PF4 settings on your engine just to be sure things are dialed in correctly. I might give them a call during the week.
 
After reading my earlier post, I should say that I would bump the timing at idle up 5* immediately, then see what it acts like. Then I would think that 2* increments should be safe.
 
@6872xtc now it got more serious today with the engine falling on its face and I'm not sure whats going on. Tried to adjust the timing settings like you mentioned but no luck. After 20 minutes of driving, engine loses ALL power. Totally weird and has me baffled. Made another post in the garage.
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/no-engine-power-after-20-minutes-of-driving.340803/#post-4098897

Anyway, the new fan does seem have solved the heating issue and keeps it cool. It stayed at 174 for about 10 to 15 minutes of driving which is great until I lost power.

Huge difference on air flow!

Fan install pics:

Old setup, cheap 12" fans. Possibly 2000cfm or less, plus there were gaps on the metal shroud.
20200725_131532.jpg

New Flex-A-Lite fan, 4600cfm. Brackets they give you weren't enough and almost useless. Had to run to the hardware store and fab up something.
20200725_132825.jpg

Top shroud bracket from 2x2 alum angle. 3/4" square bar in the middle
20200725_182105.jpg

Upgraded the drain pitcock to brass ball valve. Get tired of antifreeze pissing everywhere on my garage floor BUT the drain pan.
20200725_182446.jpg

This fan has these neat little flaps that open for when on the highway to allow more air through.
20200725_182459.jpg


Bottom brackets not so pretty but it works. Had space limitations on the bottom so I had to do it this way instead of how I did the top.
Also moved the wires to the bottom so they will be out of sight. ECU will drive the fans with relays. For now the fans are manually activate with 2 relays and switches.
20200725_205927.jpg

Time to put this sucker in
20200725_205939.jpg

Installed. Used 2" wide alum straps to hold the top in place.
20200726_153421.jpg
 
Glad that you made progress on the cooling system!
I saw the other thread. Hopefully you can find out more information about the fuel pressure soon.
 
Update:
If you see in the thread above, the Issue was not power but my brakes.

It has hydroboost behind the brake master. The actuator rod between the booster and master is slightly too long. The rod being too long is not allowing the master piston to completely retract after each application of the brakes. As you drive and periodically apply the brakes the pressure is not allowed to completely return to the master. After a few brake applications the pressure is built up enough that the brakes are completely locked. When the vehicle sits for a while the pressure has enough time to slowly bleed off.

There's two push rods. One in the Wilwood, one in the booster. I need to either take off .134 off the Wilwood alum plunger (bullet) OR get single longer rod thats 4.796 (4.8" would work). Thats with leaving a .020 gap. My current rod and Wilwood plunger was 4.93".

Decided to take off .134 off the plunger. Had an alum bit that matched the push rod profile and decided just to do it myself. I found a place that does custom booster push rods but that would take a week or two. Figured if I screw this up, they sell them on Summit for 8 bucks or do the longer push so I went for it.

Flexible braided lines make it easy to service this.
20200728_195054.jpg

Wilwood plunger/spacer inside master. I took off .134 to fix the brakes locking up after 20 minutes.
wil-300-13885_ml.jpg

Bit I used which matches the rounded rod profile
20200728_224023.jpg

Back Together
20190323_155408.jpg

Gave it a bath last night and drove the dirty whore to work first time ever. She cleans up well!
20200730_081628.jpg
 
That makes sense... When I talked to Tim at Precision, we couldn't figure out my exact output rod length due to the Wilwood master. He sent me a couple that were close and said I'd just need to grind one down a little at a time to get the master to fully seat right at contact point with the rod. I used a feeler gauge and just took a few thousandths off each pass with the bench grinder til I got it. Was a pain disassembling and pulling out the star washer that many times, but eventually got there.
 
AJs72K5 said:
That makes sense... When I talked to Tim at Precision, we couldn't figure out my exact output rod length due to the Wilwood master. He sent me a couple that were close and said I'd just need to grind one down a little at a time to get the master to fully seat right at contact point with the rod. I used a feeler gauge and just took a few thousandths off each pass with the bench grinder til I got it. Was a pain disassembling and pulling out the star washer that many times, but eventually got there.
Click to expand...

Did you use a longer single rod or the shorter one with the Wilwood spacer? I could have ground down my hydroboost short rod too. Either way works. There's another company that makes custom length rods but you would need to give them the exact length. I think it was Vanco (www.vancopbs.com/). Yes, taking that out and putting it back together is not fun. Having an accurate length makes it easier but requires some decent measuring devices and creative hacks to get the measurement. They do make a master/booster rod measuring device too.
 
I used the shorter one with the Wilwood spacer but still had to shorten it. FWIW, I tried switching over to a larger master (1.25" bore to improve pedal feel). The rod length was different from the Wilwood one and had to shorten that one too. WIlwood is going back on with new calipers.
 
Last weekend, I replaced the old Kayline (STC) with a new Softopper. Matches better and there is no holes to drill into the factory body unlike the Kayline. I was missing some parts on the new top but they sent out the parts the next day so I had them quickly.

softopper.jpg

Also decided to ditch the Dirty Life beadlocks for the KMC Grenade Crawl. The offset is better on the KMC. Still shopping for tires...
kmc.jpg
 
Nice wheels, I really like my Dick Cepek "Extreme Country" radials.
 
folkenheath said:
Nice wheels, I really like my Dick Cepek "Extreme Country" radials.
Click to expand...
I went and looked into those. Looks like the tallest they have is 37". I wanted to go with a 40" this time and see how that works with my rear axle moved back and my front axle moved forward. Might have to trim some more.

2Dogs said:
So good to see it on the road!

And I miss my PJ Dirt Grip tires....
Click to expand...
Thanks! PJ's are still holding up after all these years but still have a slight flat spot. I might try to air them up to 65psi again and drive it for a month then air them back down.

Another thing I addressed is the fiberglass hood was not fitting well so I ordered a steel cowl hood and had it painted by Maaco locally. The one down South in Littleton/Highlands Ranch area does great work and uses Sherwin Williams paint with clear coat. The other Maaco in Denver is horrible. Anyway the new hood fits SO much better than the old fiberglass.

hood1.jpg

Edit:
More info on the hood if anyone is researching one. Fit is and finish is about perfect.

Key Parts Steel Hoods 0851-037

4 in. Functional Cowl Induction Hood 81-87 Chevy/GMC Pickup 88-91 Blazer,88-91 Suburban
hood1.jpg
hood2.jpg
hood3.jpg
hood4.jpg
 
Last edited:
Finally got the new beadlocks and tires and mounted them myself. Got 2 knocked out, 3 more to go.

17x9 KMC Grenade Crawers with 40x13.5x17 Nitto Trail Grapplers

The ONLY thing I don't like about the wheels is they have no clear coat protection so they will oxidize quick. Anyone know of any good aluminum sealers? I might try some Dr Beasleys metal coat. I tried to clear coat one and it dulled the finish.

20200912_214006.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks! Really like how they look and now I can air down without the fear I had with the older 16.5's.

I got a good blister on my hand trying to force the first wheel in the tire. It would not go in no matter how much soapy water and how hard I pushed! I finally did what everyone else does and stand on the wheel and use my body weight rocking the wheel back and forth. FINALLY went in! Then trying to get front bead around the wheel was a little of challenge. Went to put the ring on and realized I forgot the damn tire valves!!! :doah: (requires 2). Luckily I was able to put those in the wheel while in the tire. I get ahead of myself especially when I'm tired and its late...:confused:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom