I'm going to move my rear axle back 1" and see what that does. Then may have to trim some in the rear. The front I can trim more off below the turn signal and move the axle forward 1".
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Potent Rodent
- Thread starter Shawn
- Start date
New built engine, EFI, 4L80 transmission, t-case, brakes, hydroboost, tires/wheels and more!
Got my old cracked windshield replaced today. Called around and prices all seem to be $175 plus $100 if you need a new gasket. I made an appointment with Driven Auto Glass. Jim was professional and has done 100's of square bodies so I felt confident plus he brought an assistant. He said my old gasket was good to re-use so that saved me $100. I like honesty. Probably not the cheapest in town but would rather pay a little more for experience on these older trucks.
Last time I had them re-use a seal, it took 2 trips back to re-seal. Hopefully you have better luck.
Fingers crossed. Will have to look for leaks next time I wash it or it rains.
last square glass i got was 2 years ago at 140 installed and re-used gasket .
lots of places say the old gasket plus a little sealant is a way better fit than the new gaskets.
You can get the lock ring style gaskets still. My glass guy can or you can go through Precision as they probably make the best one, or most true to the gm drawing. The crappy stuff from lmc is iffy at best.
Most new school glass guys hate the reusable gaskets and would rather glue them in. So many don't look real hard for the gasket. But they are out there to purchase for sure.
Good to know.
Here is the seal Summit sells for $31 made by Softseal. Looks to be the lock strip. I wonder if its any good?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sft-9915
Here is the seal Summit sells for $31 made by Softseal. Looks to be the lock strip. I wonder if its any good?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sft-9915
thats just the center lock strip for the std style gasket .
Two things...
Finally got the cluster installed and I have to say I am impressed with how it works, how it looks, and how easy it was to hook up especially with the bus module. Just had to wire up the oil pressure and speedo to the cluster. Also reads a few other things like A/F ratio, intake temp, vacuum/boost, in the bottom right. I cheated a little and just coiled the oil pressure line and hooked up the sender behind the cluster. Also, I got a little ahead of myself and connected the turn signal wires to the Dakota Digital box before realizing those are hard wired to the LED's at the bottom. That would be my only complaint is having to use separate wires for the signals but other than it came out nice. That and still trying to figure out why my chime is going off after the stock cluster is removed. I may try to power the Dakota with the same wires that cause the chime to go off when disconnected and see if that solves the issue.
If money is no concern, I'd opt for the more expensive Dakota cluster since it can display more things on the dash at once and allows more lighting options. I just couldn't see myself paying another $500 for a cluster that was already over $700.
Still need to install the bezel and a new BT stereo along with calibrating the speedometer. Maybe an android stereo so it can display the Edelbrock PF4 gauges.
Item 2...
Dyno Time. My good friend Jay has a dyno at the Carburetor Shop in Englewood, CO. We strapped up the K5 and played with the timing and fuel to see what numbers it would bring. It was happy at 38 degrees of timing and 12.5 AFR at WOT. Honestly, there is not much tweaking you can do with the PF4 and he was impressed with the system and how the A/F looked smooth and power looked nice too. He tunes cars all the time so that was good to hear. I'm no tuner so I gave Edelbrock and myself a pat on the back.
I forgot to grab the dyno print out but I'll grab it next time I'm there. The peak HP was 347 whp (at the wheels) and is a low reading Mustang dyno. When you factor in the big 38" tires, 14 bolt, 4L80/NP205 there is going to be some drivetrain loss. I figured its close to 430-440hp at the crank. A little lower than I was expecting but I'm good with that as long as the engine is reliable. I'm sure the new turbo mufflers that restrict a little didn't help either. I may change those out along with some larger headers. Right now 1-5/8" size primaries. I think my old 496 made 425whp with a manual trans and small skinny tires. I know I'm missing out on that big block torque. Eventually I may go forced induction which was the original plan of this engine but may focus on a better suspension in the near future.
The 40" tires just got balanced yesterday so I hope to have those installed soon.
Finally got the cluster installed and I have to say I am impressed with how it works, how it looks, and how easy it was to hook up especially with the bus module. Just had to wire up the oil pressure and speedo to the cluster. Also reads a few other things like A/F ratio, intake temp, vacuum/boost, in the bottom right. I cheated a little and just coiled the oil pressure line and hooked up the sender behind the cluster. Also, I got a little ahead of myself and connected the turn signal wires to the Dakota Digital box before realizing those are hard wired to the LED's at the bottom. That would be my only complaint is having to use separate wires for the signals but other than it came out nice. That and still trying to figure out why my chime is going off after the stock cluster is removed. I may try to power the Dakota with the same wires that cause the chime to go off when disconnected and see if that solves the issue.
If money is no concern, I'd opt for the more expensive Dakota cluster since it can display more things on the dash at once and allows more lighting options. I just couldn't see myself paying another $500 for a cluster that was already over $700.
Still need to install the bezel and a new BT stereo along with calibrating the speedometer. Maybe an android stereo so it can display the Edelbrock PF4 gauges.
Item 2...
Dyno Time. My good friend Jay has a dyno at the Carburetor Shop in Englewood, CO. We strapped up the K5 and played with the timing and fuel to see what numbers it would bring. It was happy at 38 degrees of timing and 12.5 AFR at WOT. Honestly, there is not much tweaking you can do with the PF4 and he was impressed with the system and how the A/F looked smooth and power looked nice too. He tunes cars all the time so that was good to hear. I'm no tuner so I gave Edelbrock and myself a pat on the back.
I forgot to grab the dyno print out but I'll grab it next time I'm there. The peak HP was 347 whp (at the wheels) and is a low reading Mustang dyno. When you factor in the big 38" tires, 14 bolt, 4L80/NP205 there is going to be some drivetrain loss. I figured its close to 430-440hp at the crank. A little lower than I was expecting but I'm good with that as long as the engine is reliable. I'm sure the new turbo mufflers that restrict a little didn't help either. I may change those out along with some larger headers. Right now 1-5/8" size primaries. I think my old 496 made 425whp with a manual trans and small skinny tires. I know I'm missing out on that big block torque. Eventually I may go forced induction which was the original plan of this engine but may focus on a better suspension in the near future.
The 40" tires just got balanced yesterday so I hope to have those installed soon.
You found someone that would balance 40" tires on beadlocks?
Yep. This place. They weren't sure about the taller 40's but they balanced nicely with very little weight. Its in Parker off E470 and Parker Road.
https://bighornautomotive.com/
They also fixed the oil leak in the M1008. FINALLY leak free!
Last edited:
I figured they wouldn't want to mess with the beadlock wheels.
Some places refuse to touch a beadlock wheel for liability purposes. The discount close to me seemed ok with the beadlock but refused the 40" size since it won't fit under the hood. Bighorn says they just trick the machine to think the hood is over the tire. LOL
Other places I called like Firestone said they can't fit anything larger than a 35". WTF? Really?
Other places I called like Firestone said they can't fit anything larger than a 35". WTF? Really?
I have heard about shops willing to run them without hoods. Gotta find the right one.
Couldn't get the speedo calibrated. Think my drive gear is stripped when the exhaust burned the cable. Broke my 1 1/8 socket trying to get it off. Sigh...
Took a few pictures last night with the new tires/wheels. Heavy spare was NOT fun to mount!
Took a few pictures last night with the new tires/wheels. Heavy spare was NOT fun to mount!
Looks real nice!
When I put my spare in the back of the crew cab, I was thinking "damn this isn't an insignificant task!" Doesn't help the spare is on a steel wheel.
Thanks!
LOL After I got them mounted, I had to load them in the back of my truck to get balanced and my older neighbor saw me struggling to get one in the lifted truck so he came over to help. Guy is probably in his 60's or 70s. We both got one in but then I told him there is 3 more. After all 4, I think he regretted coming over to help me.
BTW- I later found one of my motorcycle loading ramps makes it REAL easy to load them up.
