73K5Kid
1/2 ton status
Jason where did you pick up your relays wire and connectors at? I found a diagrahm if anyone is interested. Looks like I have a project this weekend.
CK5
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Power Window Idea <--- IT WORKS
- Thread starter Jason4x4
- Start date
lectric80 said:
This would really burn up the motor, the wiring or the switches. You would need well more than a 12V electrical system to accomplish this. Before something fused, it would be mega fast.
Jason4x4
1/2 ton status
no part number. They are just the standard universal bosch relay that any parts store should have.k204dr said:
Jason4x4
1/2 ton status
I think you have to have 2, If you go with one, it will power either wire ok, but the opposite wire will need to be grounded at the same time, Which wouyld require 2.wolfman said:
I see it as two relays per motor, both Dual Pole. So both are wired where the NC contact is grounded. Then energizing either relay closes the NO contacts (opens the NC contacts) & runs the motor in which ever direction.
I've been thinking about doing this to my truck for a while now. I also replaced the motors, rollers, window track felts etc when I was daily driving the truck, but they were always really slow. I know one major advantage will be taking all the load off the switches, I've gone through a bunch of them in the past, and its always the contacts that burn up on a guy. A relay draws very little amperage, so its not a big load on the switches
Glad to see it works, and you can be sure I'll be doing the same thing sooner than later
Glad to see it works, and you can be sure I'll be doing the same thing sooner than later
Looks like a good start, but I would love to see a wiring diagram showing how you hooked everything up. The other diagrams in this thread won't accomplish what your doing.
Jason4x4
1/2 ton status
post # 1, not a diagram, but has the connectors on the relay and where they go.
Electrical talk.......eyes...start......ing.....to....roll..to..the...back...of...my...head...passed out cold. 
If you wonder how much this would help you, just measure the voltage at the motor terminals while you press the switch. With the relays, you could get rid of most of the difference between battery voltage and that voltage. The power is proportional to voltage squared. Just look at the difference in window speed between engine off and engine running.
I would like to see this done to a tailgate with 8-10 gauge wire run to the back.
I have considered making an 18V buss (with a DC-DC converter and 6V battery) just for the power windows. It would be fun, but I hate to add the complexity.
I would like to see this done to a tailgate with 8-10 gauge wire run to the back.
I have considered making an 18V buss (with a DC-DC converter and 6V battery) just for the power windows. It would be fun, but I hate to add the complexity.
Took me a little while to figure out what you were doing until I found the wiring diagram of the relay... The biggest advantage is powering the passenger windows. Once you have all the windows up and running on relays you can also replace the 30 amp circuit breaker in your fuse panel with something smaller.
Here is a side by side comparison of the original vs/ relay circuits (2 door system). Note that the power and ground lines are shown as common even though you would need to run new wires to feed the relays.
Here is a side by side comparison of the original vs/ relay circuits (2 door system). Note that the power and ground lines are shown as common even though you would need to run new wires to feed the relays.
I did this to my 1978 Camaro's windows about 8 years ago. It still works great. You think the power windows in an old blazer are slow, the Camaro windows are twice as long and they have a pretty good curve to them. I could not roll the windows up at all if the engine was not running. Now they go down quick and up quick, even if the engine is off.
This and the headlight relay mod are two of the best cheap upgrades to older chevys.
This and the headlight relay mod are two of the best cheap upgrades to older chevys.
I think this is a good idea because it keeps the switching logic of the door switches but removes the voltage drop of all those contacts. With the factory setup, the + and - are both going through two switches. I just wanted to comment that a good ground to the relays is just as important as having a good power connection. I don't really see either in the pic. If the power isn't run yet, then that little red wire is the ground?Terminal 85- power from the window switch.
Terminal 30- To window motor
Terminal 87A & 86- to Ground
Terminal 87- Goes to power, I used the junction block on the firewall, so I get as much voltage as possible.
I took the pic before I ran the power wire to them.
nice thanks for the info time for a new project i see
BTW, Parts Express has waterproof relays on sale for $1.99 and they offer cheap 1st class mail shipping. Those guys are always good to deal with.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=330-079
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=330-079
y5mgisi
1 ton status
gunna have to do this x4 with the burb... Thanks for the info!
greg mgm
1/2 ton status
This is a great mod! I'll be doing it when I get the time.
I also did the headlight relay mod, but the relays I used took a crap... at night...while driving....and the headlights went out! Ahhh! Not good. I used Hella relays cause I thought they were good stuff!
I also did the headlight relay mod, but the relays I used took a crap... at night...while driving....and the headlights went out! Ahhh! Not good. I used Hella relays cause I thought they were good stuff!
