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Power Window Idea <--- IT WORKS

My money is on it being way to complicate but its a thought. When i had that 95 Tahoe for a while i couldnt believe how fast the windows were. Seems they stay faster than our motors.
 
y5mgisi said:
My money is on it being way to complicate but its a thought.
Click to expand...

:doah:

Good luck with that venture.

Its amazing how much faster (or how slow ours are) compared to newer vehicles.

That being said, when mine are cleaned and lubed, they aren't bad. Its an every other year effort, but it makes a HUGE difference.

Its also time to do it agian.
 
I dont understand how that wiring works the pass side

First off, great work Lunatic. Really nice diagram.

However looking at Lunatic's diagram, I don't see how it allows you to operate the passenger window from the driver side.

Or am I totally wrong and the fact is that... (Lunatic confirms in following post that the following is true)

...the TAN and DK BLU/WHT wires on the passenger side are coming from the driver side and directly connected to the passenger side BRN and and DK BLU wires inside of the switch ?

Also since 87A has power at all times except when the relay is activated by current to 85 why is it grounded ? When I added this type of relay to run my headlights I just left 87A disconnected

EDIT: So following is all wrong.

If I am right then you could do one of the two following choices:

1. You would need another 2 relays connected to the DK BLU/WHT and TAN on the driver side with 2 new wires running from the each 30 terminal on this second set of relays across the car to the DK BLU and BRN on the motor on the pass side. They could share the new power and ground wires on the driver side using a pigtail connection. (or Yellow Suitcase as Lunatic uses)


2. Do the following additional steps on the passenger side:

Attach both the Brown from passenger switch and the Tan wire from the driver side onto the 85 connector on the Passenger side DOWN relay.

Attach both the DK BLU from the passenger switch and the DK BLU/WHT from the driver side on the the 85 connector on the Passenger side UP relay.
 
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Thanks for the compliment......

IIRC - Its been a while - The reason I left the BLU/WHT and TAN "open" on the diagram is that (again, IIRC) the two wires jump across the vehicle to the passenger side switch from the factory. That's also why I left the diagram for the passenger switch BLU/WHT and TAN "open".

AND.....lol......IIRC - I actually did draw the two circuits straight to each other in the diagram originally - But it appeared very congested and I thought it may confuse someone - So I left that bit out. I should have put that explanation in the legend I guess. :whistle:

I'm not sure why I grounded 87A. But, I can say that de-energized, 87A and 30 are connected internally in the relay (I just checked).

It was 10/09/11 when I did this mod - Sorry I don't remember all the details. I will add this last note though - How I wired it (and diagramed it) has worked flawlessly since installation - Almost 2 years now.


Hopefully my response helps !!!



Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
 
Perfect

Thanks for confirmation that driver side switch directly controls passenger side as well so only 4 relays are needed.

Hooked it up works great.

Thanks for your help!!! :waytogo::waytogo::waytogo:
 
This is an outstanding thread! 5 years and still going.
Lunatic, great diagram/schematic!
Can you make one for the tailgate? Hint Hint
This should be made a 'sticky' something all of us with power windows can and will use.
This would make for a great write up and addition for the Tech Articles!
 
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I plan on doing the tailgate as well using the same diagram as the passenger side.

I will put 2 relays behind the dash and connect the switch to them. Then will run 12 gauge from the junction block to the relays and then two new 12 gauge wires from the relay back to the tailgate.

That is all that is needed... just have to get around to it.
 
I would just run one heavy wire to the tailgate and put the relays in the tailgate. Then you get the improvement from both the dash switch and the rear key switch and avoid tons of rewire, as it is a convoluted circuit. This is a big plus for the poor key switch which likes to corrode. The wiring for the tailgate motor is different than the door windows. One hot for "up" and one hot for "down". It is not a polarity reversal like up front, but two standard relays would still do the job. I've thought about doing this mod more than once.
 
The rear window wiring is also much heavier from the factory than the door windows. The last one I tore into was like 10 ga. going back, but the real bottle neck is the dash switch. Relays like are being discussed here would need to be at the back of the Blazer, with the switch providing the signal for the 2 relays. To boost the speed from the key switch would require a more convoluted setup that would require the feeds off the key switch to run to the relays. It definitely isn't easy, but I know the bottlenecks are the dash switch and the key switch.
 
Just take the two wires that go to the motor now and use them to control two relays. Then all factory switches work as original. That's why I was recommending mounting them inside the tailgate.
 
Blue85 said:
Just take the two wires that go to the motor now and use them to control two relays. Then all factory switches work as original. That's why I was recommending mounting them inside the tailgate.
Click to expand...
I may be incorrect, but in addition to this, didn't you suggest somewhere to check or repair the ground to the tailgate??
 
This weekend I decided to give this powered relay setup a try, and I was pleasantly surprised. A few weeks back I replaced all window rubber around the door and triangle window, and since then the window wouldn't go up or down. The physical resistance was more than the motor could overcome. I removed and "rebuilt" the window motor by cleaning, lightly emery cloth/sand papering, and lubing all the correct motor parts. I then ran a new uninterrupted power feed (14 gauge wire) from my new and improved (not factory) fuse block. I then mounted two new Bosch relays to door panel in a location that wouldn't interfere with the door panel. Following the labeled wiring diagram a few pages back on this site made it super easy. I then put the entire door back together, and now the window rolls up and down like it did when it was new. Thanks guys for all your posts! This site and its members really do help the rest of us.
 
Probably. I would just take a voltmeter between the motor case and the truck frame to see how much voltage drop there is when the motor is under high load. If it's like .1V, it's not worth bothering with. But when you get like 0.5V, you will notice the difference with a solid ground.

Anybody ever measure voltages in the tailgate?
 
What size are the wires from the motors? Pwagon used 14 gauge, I think others used 10. When running wires I would like to use one smaller than 10 gauge if possible...unless those motors pull 30a (seems unlikely).
 
I know on the 80 sub I took a complete unit out of the wires to the tailgate were 10 ga., but it seems like the wiring on the inside of the tailgate was closer to 14 ga.
 
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