surpip
1 ton status
before or after stock cooler?
CK5
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prefered mode of hooking up tranny cooler
- Thread starter surpip
- Start date
surpip
1 ton status
oh and gauge on return or supply line?
Leper
1/2 ton status
After the stock cooler.
83ZZ502_Jimmy
1/2 ton status
surpip said:
Guage sender is usually in the pan for more accurate readings.. If not, return line is IMO the next best place.
83ZZ502_Jimmy
1/2 ton status
surpip said:
After.
Roz
1/2 ton status
after and in the pan
Beast388
1/2 ton status
Roz said:
2nd that!
Eric M.
1/2 ton status
Hmmm, I've always installed before the stock cooler. I figure I want the trans fluid cooler before it enters the stock radiator, it might reduce overall engine temp. Granted, probably not by much, but slightly.
Eric M.
Eric M.
jays68yak
1/2 ton status
Ive always ran the biggest tranny cooler I could get/afford. And when I hooked it up I never went back into the radiator. I would think it would be cooler not getting warmed up with the coolant. Another plus not running it into the radiator, you can pull the radiator and not have to spill tranny fuild all over the place.
BlitzK5
1/2 ton status
Whats the biggest and the best tranny cooler you can get these days for a resonable price?
Beast388
1/2 ton status
jays68yak said:
I used to have mine hooked up that way. All it took was a good mud hole where the engine was screaming with no forward motion to force air through the cooler, and I overheated the tranny. It puked about 2 quarts out through the dipstick tube.
Needless to say I changed that setup around before the next wheelin' trip.
Eric M.
1/2 ton status
Check the Summit or Jegs site. B&M and Valley have sites with specs for there coolers too. Most recommend running their coolers in line with the stock radiators, but I think that is more for liability. If a trans burns up due to heat and a manufacturer of coolers has said it's OK to bypass the factory cooler ... I guess they could be on the hook for a trans rebuild.
Jay is right, get a big monster and bypass the radiator all together. I did that with a truck of mine that was running hot all the time. It brought the eng. temp. down a bite and I imagine the trans. too (never had a trans temp guage)
Eric M.
Jay is right, get a big monster and bypass the radiator all together. I did that with a truck of mine that was running hot all the time. It brought the eng. temp. down a bite and I imagine the trans. too (never had a trans temp guage)
Eric M.
jays68yak
1/2 ton status
Well then stay away from mud. 
Ive never had a problem but I do tend to stay away from mud. Too much clean up.
Ive never had a problem but I do tend to stay away from mud. Too much clean up.
jays68yak said:
One thing to note if you're going to do this is that its probably not the best idea for cold weather. Tranny fluid (like most fluids!) doesn't like to be tooooo cold and if its really chilly outside, running the trans fluid through the radiator can heat it up to a nice cozy operating temp. All of that said, I plan on running mine just through a cooler.... never gets cold here anyway.
As far as what is the biggest/best... go with the B&M Supercooler. Stacked plate, nice and efficient. Spendy for the larger ones though...
j
Roz
1/2 ton status
the most effecient tranfer of heat is from liquid not air. the norm op temp of the motor is a good temp for the tranny fluid if ure in cold weather
83ZZ502_Jimmy
1/2 ton status
Beast388
1/2 ton status
jays68yak said:Well then stay away from mud.
That is tough to do in the Midwest.
I never had a problem with that set-up either......until I hit the mud. Now I have no problems regardless of what terrain I am traversing.
bridgeguy
Registered Member
Living in the Sacramento Valley, you're likely going to have more trouble keeping the transmission fluid cooler than needing to heat it up unless you're heading into the Sierra's for snow runs on a regular basis.
Whenever I've run them, in the hotter regions especially, I've run through the radiator cooler and then through the trans cooler. That way, at the absolute minimum, you're getting some cooling even when you're not moving (as was previously mentioned). Then, run through the trans cooler and, obviously, locate somewhere that you can get airflow through the tubes on the cooler. If you choose to bypass the radiator entirely, you need to ensure adequate airflow through the trans cooler which can be accomplished with some of the newer coolers with the built-in electric fan, but that sort of defeats the request for a cost-effective solution as they are NOT cheap.
Oh yeah...and like everyone else said: in the pan.
Whenever I've run them, in the hotter regions especially, I've run through the radiator cooler and then through the trans cooler. That way, at the absolute minimum, you're getting some cooling even when you're not moving (as was previously mentioned). Then, run through the trans cooler and, obviously, locate somewhere that you can get airflow through the tubes on the cooler. If you choose to bypass the radiator entirely, you need to ensure adequate airflow through the trans cooler which can be accomplished with some of the newer coolers with the built-in electric fan, but that sort of defeats the request for a cost-effective solution as they are NOT cheap.
Oh yeah...and like everyone else said: in the pan.
Skigirl
1/2 ton status
You should also run a filter.
B&M has an oil cooler thermostat that allows the fluid to bypass the cooler and be warmed by the radiator in cold weather, but move it through the cooler in warm temps, so you can run the cooler with no probs no matter outside temp.
B&M has an oil cooler thermostat that allows the fluid to bypass the cooler and be warmed by the radiator in cold weather, but move it through the cooler in warm temps, so you can run the cooler with no probs no matter outside temp.
theperfectgarage
1/2 ton status
Before. especially important for winter running.
