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Private Pyle

So started looking into why power management fuse kept popping. One side of where the fuse goes in the fuse block was shorted to ground. I undid the fuse block and figured out which wire it was under the hood and followed it up to the fuel shut off solenoid on the injection pump. I unplugged it tested it at the tab on top of the pump and it was shorted to ground. With it unplugged it hasn’t blown a fuse yet, which now it won’t start but I had the key on a lot during testing and when I was fixing the passenger front turn signal and side marker light.

So I’m going to try to find a new one of those….

It’s always something! Lol.

I did get the lights fixed but I don’t have turn signals at all. The bulbs just light up solid. I forgot too that I had never switched out the flasher module(s) when I switched to LEDs so I still need to do that. But I also think I might still have a ground issue. I want to run some more grounds between the body and frame and between the battery and frame.
 
New fuel shut off solenoid, seal kit, and top cover seal has been ordered. Don't know when it will ship yet, hopefully it gets here this week. I'm trying to make it to a truck show Saturday the 18th and will drive it about 20ish miles one way to the town the show is in so I would like to put some more miles on it before I do take off driving very far.
 
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Removed all of this wire mess for a radio from a previous owner install. Crap was just hanging under the dash.

Also got the LED flasher modules installed, have hazards but still no turn signals.
 
Installed the fuel shut off solenoid yesterday. Before I installed it, I did ohm it out like the other one and its still showing like they are shorted together. So I may have been wrong in my testing. I did notice however that the new one was showing about half the ohms of resistance at 4 something compared to the old one reading around 9. So maybe the old one was still bad. The old one felt like it moved more freely/looser than the new one if that makes sense. I have started it and drove it around several times and so far it hasn't popped the power management fuse again.

Also, I found that with the turn signal flasher module unplugged, I had power on both terminals. Looking at wiring schematics led me to find there was a diode behind the fuse box tied into both terminals of the flasher module. So I believe it was bad, I couldn't really test it without cutting it out. I started looking online to see if I could find one and would also have to find new terminal ends most likely as the diode was crimped in the terminal ends along with the wires. I was reading on Steel Soldiers that if you aren't running the military radios then you don't need the diode (probably any of the diodes through out the truck) as they were to eliminate feedback between the turn signals and the radios. So I just cut it out. Still didn't have turn signals. Then I remembered that in the instructions for the LED flasher modules it said if they didn't work after installation then you might need the provided reverse polarity adapter. I installed that and now I have turn signals! However, they also work with the key off....

So now I need to figure out whats up with that.

I also need a few bulbs.

Also, the front side markers are supposed to be a running light and turn signal correct? Mine are only acting as a turn signal. (if i remember correctly, they are acting as one and not the other)
 
My turn signals work with the key off in my M1009. (Not in my K10 though) No LEDs on mine except the dash back lights.
And yes, the side markers are running lights + turn signals.
 
My turn signals work with the key off in my M1009. (Not in my K10 though) No LEDs on mine except the dash back lights.

Wonder why that is. I didn't notice it back before it set for the last two years. But I also never tried the turn signals with the key off. LOL.

And yes, the side markers are running lights + turn signals.

I thought this was the case. Mine aren't working correctly. Could be a bulb issue also though as my test light seems to work on both sides of the socket.
 
Wonder why that is. I didn't notice it back before it set for the last two years. But I also never tried the turn signals with the key off. LOL.



I thought this was the case. Mine aren't working correctly. Could be a bulb issue also though as my test light seems to work on both sides of the socket.
I seem to remember the issue stemming from the LED type of light bulb.
I believe if they are bidirectional they work properly.
It's been discussed in the past year
 
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Well after we got home last Saturday from the truck show I noticed a higher than “normal” diesel fuel smell. I briefly looked and didn’t really see anything. Then when we took the blazer to town this past Saturday we stopped at the Solitaire trailer place to measure some things on the model they had in stock like what we ordered. When leaving I noticed a puddle on the ground towards what would be the back side of the motor. So yesterday I nosed it into my in laws shop and got to looking for the leak. The valley under the intake is soaked. It only leaks when you shut it off and it quits after a bit. I believe the injection pump is leaking somewhere. All of the injector lines at the pump looked dry.
 
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No update, just posting a picture. Lol.

Just been driving it here and there. Wife is off work the last two days so I’ve had to drive myself and brought the blazer these last two days.

It’s still leaking fuel… lol. Need to look at fixing that sometime. Just been busy.
 
Whats everybody's thoughts on keeping the 6.2 diesel, swapping in an NV4500, 3.73 gears (some sort of cheap lockers if I do swap gears) and staying on the 33s?

Right now its "gutless" on take off but I'm going to chock that mostly due to the transmission isn't starting in 1st gear. However, the speed o meter does hit 65-70 at times and it doesn't sound like its about to blow up but it doesn't sound happy. So worried the 3.73s might be too much.

This is just throwing some ideas around and nothing to come anytime soon.
 
Sounds like a good plan and a fun project! You will be able to jam down the highway at some nice speeds. With the OD, 4.10's would be better, IMO.
I agree with the gutless parts, when I first got my M1009, I had 33's and 3.08's. It scared me a few times trying to merge on the freeway when I couldn't accelerate, on flat ground, to get around some semi's.
Honestly, the best thing I ever did was swap to 4.56's (came with the one-tons) when I went to 35's. Now it actually moves itself quite well, and is way funner to drive. I cruise at 60 on the highway spinning 2700, which seems like my rigs sweet spot.
 
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Whats everybody's thoughts on keeping the 6.2 diesel, swapping in an NV4500, 3.73 gears (some sort of cheap lockers if I do swap gears) and staying on the 33s?

Right now its "gutless" on take off but I'm going to chock that mostly due to the transmission isn't starting in 1st gear. However, the speed o meter does hit 65-70 at times and it doesn't sound like its about to blow up but it doesn't sound happy. So worried the 3.73s might be too much.

This is just throwing some ideas around and nothing to come anytime soon.
These blazer variants need more gearing than 3.08. The trucks less than 4.56 but, over drive transmissions fix that.
 
Whats everybody's thoughts on keeping the 6.2 diesel, swapping in an NV4500, 3.73 gears (some sort of cheap lockers if I do swap gears) and staying on the 33s?

Right now its "gutless" on take off but I'm going to chock that mostly due to the transmission isn't starting in 1st gear. However, the speed o meter does hit 65-70 at times and it doesn't sound like its about to blow up but it doesn't sound happy. So worried the 3.73s might be too much.

This is just throwing some ideas around and nothing to come anytime soon.
Put a turbo on.
It woke up my suburban.
I have 33" tires on 4.10 gears and a 700r4
 
Sounds like a good plan and a fun project! You will be able to jam down the highway at some nice speeds. With the OD, 4.10's would be better, IMO.
I agree with the gutless parts, when I first got my M1009, I had 33's and 3.08's. It scared me a few times trying to merge on the freeway when I couldn't accelerate, on flat ground, to get around some semi's.
Honestly, the best thing I ever did was swap to 4.56's (came with the one-tons) when I went to 35's. Now it actually moves itself quite well, and is way funner to drive. I cruise at 60 on the highway spinning 2700, which seems like my rigs sweet spot.

I'm not opposed to one tons but would definitely go with 35s or 37s at minimum. Your M1009 is looking awesome. I wish mine looked like yours. I know you've put in the work on it though. I love it.

These blazer variants need more gearing than 3.08. The trucks less than 4.56 but, over drive transmissions fix that.

The very few hour(s) i drove it with the 4L60e actually working correctly it seemed to do well. But I didn't cruise down the highway at speed for very long. It started slipping so I unplugged the computer again and been shifting it manually ever since. Doesn't slip. But doesn't take off in first and I don't feel like its shifting into OD and/or the torque convertor isn't locking up. I really don't want to put the $$ into the 4L60e right now (or at all really) and my plan before I even bought this M1009 was for swapping in an NV4500 in.

Put a turbo on.
It woke up my suburban.
I have 33" tires on 4.10 gears and a 700r4

Ive contemplated a turbo but idk.

I sway back and forth about which direction to go. I wanted a nice M1009 with the 6.2 diesel, NV4500, most likely one tons, 35s or 37s and daily it. This one has a lot of rust so some days I'm thinking more like Offroad Designs convertible K30 truck. Cut out all the rust and go back with tubing. I also debate about LS swapping it or even getting a different "daily" and killing my 03 Burb, swapping the 8.1 and 4L80/85e, & 14 bolt from it into the blazer and go on up to 40s.
 
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