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Project 82 TCBF -10.13.9 - progress!!!

BIGBLAZE433 said:
Question: I bought the poly body mount kit from ORD, and I plan on eventually replacing them, along with the cab floor again. My question is, how far can I lift the body off the frame without actually disconnecting anything? besides things like the t-case linkage.

When I put my 3" body lift on the only thing I had to disconnect was my shifter linkage for the tansmission. But keep your eye on wires and any other cables that might be stretched.
 
when I replaced my body mounts I did not disconnect anything, just pushed the tub up enought to get the mount out and replace it. I should have bought a 1" bodylift because all my bolts were junk and an extra inch never hurt.:D
 
gmc4cw said:
when I replaced my body mounts I did not disconnect anything, just pushed the tub up enought to get the mount out and replace it. I should have bought a 1" bodylift because all my bolts were junk and an extra inch never hurt.:D
Hahaha, yeah, an extra inch can never hurt. I was just wondering if I could get it up enough to paint the frame.

Here`s another question. Theres a Blazer for sale locally. 88, 6.2, bodys rotted, and has a fisher plow, frame for its bent but all controls work. How hard would it be to swap my body onto that frame? What wiring would be different?
 
You can crank it up pretty high Ben..

I did what your talking about... since I had the truck off the road for a couple weeks when I did the bodylift/bushing job, I stripped, zinced, epoxied and black Imroned about 70% of the frame, inside and out. The other 30% is up at the motor, which I'll do when I put the stroker in...

flap wheel is your friend...

Definitely worth undoing the couple clamps that retain the fuel lines down the p-side of the frame and getting behind them....
 
ryoken said:
You can crank it up pretty high Ben..

I did what your talking about... since I had the truck off the road for a couple weeks when I did the bodylift/bushing job, I stripped, zinced, epoxied and black Imroned about 70% of the frame, inside and out. The other 30% is up at the motor, which I'll do when I put the stroker in...

flap wheel is your friend...

Definitely worth undoing the couple clamps that retain the fuel lines down the p-side of the frame and getting behind them....
Thanks Paul!

Glen, I suppose I could do that, but not I`m not sure how extensive the swap is.
 
You were probably right, must be something with my access at work. I can see the pics here at the house, and it is looking great Ben.
 
ill take that 6.2 off your hands if you dont want it!:) ill even take it for free!! lol. looking good glad you decided to keep it and not ditch her.
 
Thanks guys.

Today I`ll pick up some new lexan for the side windows. Also, while I was in NH yesterday, I found a solution for the rear window of the cap. I decided to just use the rear window out of the tailgate that was on my truck. So, yesterday I took the window of the tailgate.

For the rear wall, I`m going to use the bottom of the cab wall I got from tomford, and I will reinforce the inside of the wall with a piece of plywood, then put a piece of C Channel over both pieces. Since the window from the tailgate will go further down than the bottom of the cap, I will use the bottom track on the window to mount it to the inside of the wall, then silicone the crap out of everything.

Now I just need to come up with something to put on the bedsides so that when I put the rear wall in, it kind of boxes the whole area.
 
This is going to be one really unique Blazer/Truck/Avalanche/something. Did you ever come up with a good name to call it?
 
lectric80 said:
This is going to be one really unique Blazer/Truck/Avalanche/something. Did you ever come up with a good name to call it?
Not yet, but have a few brewing. :D Crew Cab + Blazer= Crazer, or Avalanche + Blazer= Avalazer?
 
Is fiberglass as hard as it looks? I`m really thinking about teaching myself how to fiberglass and modifying this cap a little bit. I`m thinking of making it more of an ext. cab pickup, and shortening the cap up so its just a little shorter than Kerts (cybrfire) allowing the back wall to come down before the wheel wells start, giving me about 2 more feet of bedspace. For seating, I was thinking of getting a seat out of the back of maybe an s10 pickup ext. cab, or another truck of similar size.

Whatcha guys think? Keep the cap the way it is, shorten it, or weld the cab wall in, then bondo the crap out of it to make the lines look decent?
 
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I vote to have as much cab space as possible.
But I have never understood takeing a Blazer and makeing a pick-up out of it though....? :dunno: Why not just buy a truck?
 
Dafey said:
I vote to have as much cab space as possible.
But I have never understood takeing a Blazer and makeing a pick-up out of it though....? :dunno: Why not just buy a truck?
we would like to see unique cars n trucks sometimes... instead of same thing all of the time.. i still say do the cap..
 
Dafey said:
I vote to have as much cab space as possible.
But I have never understood takeing a Blazer and makeing a pick-up out of it though....? :dunno: Why not just buy a truck?
because its alot cheaper to make do with what you have.
 
i think the pickup wall matches, at least from that pic, plus i think blazers w/ p/u cab wall looks nice, it's like a shortbed with the bed attached

Tom
 
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