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Project Blue Truck: '83 C20 - Rolling Chassis

Here was mine if it gives you any ideas. My steering was for behind the front and in front of the rear axle. I actually started looking into putting the lowers above the tierods. Gave better clearance and better link geometry numbers. It was actually when I went to shop to make a decision on putting lower above or below tierod that I decided to sell it all and build a buggy..... be careful.

I had those BTF link brackets but ended up drawing out a bracket that used the inspection plate like the sinister fab ones but allowed some extra holes and flat top for bump stop pads. I have the templates all made but sold axled before I made them.
2012-07-19095206.jpg

2012-09-24114309.jpg


Here is my second revision without using the factory kingpin plate

2012-09-27134109.jpg
 
MNorby said:
Here was mine if it gives you any ideas. My steering was for behind the front and in front of the rear axle. I actually started looking into putting the lowers above the tierods. Gave better clearance and better link geometry numbers. It was actually when I went to shop to make a decision on putting lower above or below tierod that I decided to sell it all and build a buggy..... be careful.

I had those BTF link brackets but ended up drawing out a bracket that used the inspection plate like the sinister fab ones but allowed some extra holes and flat top for bump stop pads. I have the templates all made but sold axled before I made them.
2012-07-19095206.jpg

2012-09-24114309.jpg




Here is my second revision without using the factory kingpin plate

2012-09-27134109.jpg
Click to expand...




where did you get the ram??
 
I'm still brainstorming on the passenger side upper link, but planned on using the inspection plate as well, or at least getting extremely close to it. I think I'm going to build a boot cover/hi steer arm combo that pretty much encapsulates the entire inside of the knuckle. There are no rocks to bash off of here but plenty of tree stumps, roots, and limbs to punch a hole in the boots.
 
I lopped off and machined the other spindles and got them pressed together. There are provisions for 3 plug welds and about 9" worth of bead around the perimeter so hopefully they wont break off.:eek1:

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IMG_20121211_202846.jpg


I also bought two driveshaft flanges from NAPA. They are Neapco 3-2-429 for anyone interested.

IMG_20121211_202857.jpg


I'm still waiting on my link material unfortunately.
 
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Dude this is some really good work you're doing. :thumb: :bow: Where did you learn so much about machining anyway? You said you went to Mercer. I figured you were a medical guy but obviously not.
 
andyblack said:
Dude this is some really good work you're doing. :thumb: :bow: Where did you learn so much about machining anyway? You said you went to Mercer. I figured you were a medical guy but obviously not.
Click to expand...

Thanks man, I appreciate it. I actually was pre-med at Mercer, but decided that med school wasn't for me since you kinda need to make good grades to get accepted.:haha: I still managed to finish up with a BS in Biology and a minor in Chemistry and now work as a quality control chemist outside of Savannah. One of the reasons this build is taking so long is I have to buy the machinery as I go along; the welder, drill press, and lathe all came along because of the truck. Those two spindles are the first and so far only things I have ever made on a lathe.:confused:
 
So after reading I determined that I needed to pre heat and post heat the cast steel, I went to Wally World and bought a small Weber.:haha: I grilled the spindle at ~400* for 2 hours, welded it using a state of the art rotary fixture, and then put it back on to cool down over night. The rotary apparatus is a hub from the front of my white truck, an assortment of washers and a length of 5/8th all thread.:doah:

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The other spindle is heating up now.
 
On to the flange now.

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I need to measure the wall thickness at the threads and keyway and compare it to the unbored spindle to see how much I took off. I'm hoping that the spindle nuts will help hold the outside end together to keep it from splitting, though there shouldn't be too terribly much load out that far.
 
That thing looks crazy man. I had to look at it a minute to see that it was built from two different axles. I like it. Those spindle nuts have to be torqued down really tight (the inside one anyway). Putting the torque on the spindle will show you if it's still thick enough to hold up. I like where this is headed.

I can't remember if you said what wheels and tires you're planning on running. Ag tires I assume?
 
andyblack said:
That thing looks crazy man. I had to look at it a minute to see that it was built from two different axles. I like it. Those spindle nuts have to be torqued down really tight (the inside one anyway). Putting the torque on the spindle will show you if it's still thick enough to hold up. I like where this is headed.

I can't remember if you said what wheels and tires you're planning on running. Ag tires I assume?
Click to expand...

Thanks man, hopefully it will hold up.

Wheels are stock H1's and tires are looking like the 44 x 18.5 (not the more common 19.5) Boggers that Interco has on their blemish page.
 
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Saw your posts on pirate, didn't realize you had a thread here, will be watching :pimp:
 
howdiy said:
Saw your posts on pirate, didn't realize you had a thread here, will be watching :pimp:
Click to expand...

Thanks; once I get a little bit closer to the end of the build I may start a thread on Pirate. As of now I don't feel it's "hardcore" enough.

I chucked up the Rockwell drive flange and started cutting the splines out of it, but after realizing I would be in front of the lathe all day, I resorted to drilling out the last little bit. This slug will get pressed and welded into the piece I hope to make. The counter bores may give me some trouble; I don't know whether to buy a counter bore or to use an end mill.

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The red piece is the part I cut out and the teal is what I need to make.

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DriveFlangeRear_zps5f62b206.png
 
Seems like getting a thick piece of steel cnc cut would be an easier route
 
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