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Project Burt - he needs some lovin'

I know the feeling. I can't adjust them either. I know there are two screws in the front under the bowl that you can't really get to easily without a special flexible screwdriver. I think one is for the fuel and the other is for the air. When my carb isn't running right and starts stumbling or whatever, I normally just get out there and turn one of the screws until the engine acts like it's about to stall and then turn it back a quarter turn (or until the idle smooths back out). Then I do the same with the other screw. That usually gets the mixture pretty close I think. You are running the Quadrajet right?

Also I have one question: Is that an NP205 that you have twin-sticked? You may have said but I don't remember. I've just never seen one behind a TH700R4 before. Or is it an NP241 that you have?
 
Yeah it's a 700r4/205 combo. It takes a 27 spline np205 from behind a th350, that adapter from same setup, and an adapter spacer to make up for the extra output shaft length. There is also an aftermarket trans output shaft so you don't need the spacer, but it can cause front driveshaft and trans pan contact issues.

My tcase was originally 10 spline but I swapped input shafts and got the right adapter and drive sleeve for it. Plus it was already twin sticked when I got it!
 
andyblack said:
I know the feeling. I can't adjust them either. I know there are two screws in the front under the bowl that you can't really get to easily without a special flexible screwdriver. I think one is for the fuel and the other is for the air. When my carb isn't running right and starts stumbling or whatever, I normally just get out there and turn one of the screws until the engine acts like it's about to stall and then turn it back a quarter turn (or until the idle smooths back out). Then I do the same with the other screw. That usually gets the mixture pretty close I think. You are running the Quadrajet right?
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Those screws adjust your idle circuit fuel/air mixture, they're called idle mixture screws. They both do the same thing, just each primary barrel has it's own screw.

Pick up a vacuum pressure tester, under $20:
http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7803..._5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1367434364&sr=1-5

Then look up carb tuning with a vacuum gauge- it'll let you get it dialed in a little better than just guessing, and it's really not that hard. My dad taught me a little when I was younger, but I had mostly forgotten and relearned pretty much from reading online and trial and error. I'm no pro, but I'm getting more comfortable with it. It's a good skill to pick up- I'm 26, not a lot of people know how to tune a carb now- how many people are going to when I'm 50?
 
Vac gauge makes everything easier. Timing as well. Found at any Autozone for like 15$. I use them for carb tuning, its not to awful hard. If you have to dive into metering rods and such I get lost, but the basic stuff I can get pretty easy.
 
Well after about a year of sitting, I finally put some minor work into Burty to get him moving. I was having an electrical problem (confirmed!) which would cause me to stall out when hitting bumps and putting it into reverse. My grounds were nonexistent. Replaced the battery to motor ground, motor to body, and motor to frame. Going to add a body to frame ground near the back of the truck as well to help ground my stereo.

I forgot how much this truck likes to wander - I really half-assed it when I built it. It drives okay, just really washy. That might have something to do with the missing rear shocks and no panhard bar - those things amongst MANY others will be addressed over the coming couple months. I hope to have it set up well enough to go to a couple events or at least act as a recovery rig for my friends.
 
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Adding those grounds is a good idea. You can never have too many grounds imo..

Did you figure anything out on the wandering issue? Any other updates of late?
 
Got my TNA engine crossmember in and cut my fenders so far. I've been trying to get my grandfather's compressor working on 110. Oh, my whole garage is on a 15 amp breaker. Very limiting. Well, my other compressor is a crapsman oilless. What a gem. I refuse to run that thing anymore because it sounds like it's going to explode and can't keep anything I own running for more than a minute.

Tonight I'm going to drop the front axle and add a leaf to my front springs - I pulled two to lower it down but it sagged down a little lower than I liked. I also need to set my springs parallel to each other and set them to axle width with shims - it's a dodge axle.

I'll have to update the to do list and pictures for sure.
 
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Crossmember installed
vusupe7y.jpg

Front fender trimmed
7e6e6yvy.jpg

First time under its own power in almost a year
5azuja2a.jpg

My grandfather's compressor, repowered with a harbor freight motor
2atabaha.jpg
 
Can anyone tell me the approximate degree value of these shims? They're from a pair of superlift 8" front springs. I want to keep my u joints alive longer so was thinking about shimming a few more degrees.

Any huge negatives I should know about if I went with 8 degree or higher shims? I hear steering will suffer some but this truck turns so well already that I can take a little less capability in exchange for keeping my front driveshaft attached at both ends.

gysananu.jpg


quhu4u2y.jpg
 
xenomarine said:
Well that's a more elegant solution than I was prepared to come up with. Thanks!
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For five bucks, the angle finder is handy for all kinds of stuff in the suspension, even just finding level if you don't have a bubble level that's magnetic.

My problem is that I live on a hill so EVERYTHING is angled off level, including the driveway, the garage floor and therefore the workbench. :( When I was sorting through the driveshaft and caster angles, I had to do a TON of angle differences, drove me nuts.

-- A
 
I don't think those are 8 degree shims. Maybe 4-6. Hard to tell with them lying sideways though.
 
Take 3 measurements and calculate the angle. Length, thickness front, and thickness rear. With those three dimensions it is easy.
 
See, you really do use trigonometry in your everyday life. Guess I owe my high school teacher an apology.
 
andyblack said:
See, you really do use trigonometry in your everyday life. Guess I owe my high school teacher an apology.
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CAD design and drafting, Mechanical engineering... it comes up a lot.

Seriously, give me those three measurements and you will have an exact angle.
 
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