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Project Burt - he needs some lovin'

X

xenomarine

1/2 ton status
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Posts
1,061
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3
Location
Southington, CT
This has been 2 years in the making. Got my 84 blazer with 34k original miles when I graduated high school, a gift from my parents. Since then I have learned to turn a wrench a little and I have all the tools that I require in my own 2 car garage, where I have been doing all the prep work for a lift and axle swap.

what i've got to replace my 10 bolts with 2.73s is a 14 bsf and a dana 44, both open with 4.10s. It'll be getting a 4-5" lift and running 35" bfg at's.

Front axle:
Yukon chromoly shafts
milemarker locking hubs (got a good deal, don't poke fun)
Rebuilt outers, new bearings, ball joints, tie rod, etc.

Rear:
Brake job.

Lift:
Mystery 4" front leaves
Stock rears with shackle flip
ORD extended braided brake lines

Also have a set of 4 1"blocks that I drilled to bolt to a spring pack, just in case the front or rear sags. if it doesn't, then it's getting ez inches all around.


BUT....my motor decided to leak all the oil out on the way to my girlfriends house, and not lose oil pressure until I could hear it knocking. Good thing I have a fully rebuilt 350 to replace my half launched 305....but that pushes back my lift plans until the engine is swapped. pictures should be incoming soon.

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Doing my engine swap right now, well I was earlier this week. i'm out of state right now. I am curious as to what this sensor looking thing is, it is on the intake to the left of the water neck, and has 4 vacuum lines coming off of it. I'm fairly new to engine terminology and this kind of stuff.

what is it's function, and can it be eliminated?

c6e4c899-6c73-ac1b.jpg

c6e4c899-6ca4-0ab5.jpg

the middle hole on this intake is where that particular piece would be attached to.
c6e4c899-6cb9-8f16.jpg


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First, we need pics of the rig! Second, this place is full of knowledge and nice people. Nobody will poke fun. A few people have had blocks on the front of their truck and no negative tone was spoken to them. So your hubs are more the. Acceptable.

That looks like a mess of vacuum hoses. And it should stay. It may control your heater, vacuum timing advance, but I could be wrong and it may just be some emmisions stuff. Good luck!
 
Thanks, i'm a long time lurker, this site is where I have accumulated most of my knowledge of these trucks. That plug seems to be a vacuum operated water temp sensor, so I guess it must stay. Pics incoming

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This is my k5 on 33s
c6e4c8a0-b975-2b1b.jpg


Aftermarket cupholder my girlfriend got for me (her) for Christmas. I replaced my cupholders with a dual din touch screen radio.
c6e4c8a0-b9ee-20e9.jpg


My lift goodies
c6e4c8a0-ba6e-e5f2.jpg


New 355 that's almost ready to go in
c6e4c8a0-babe-8973.jpg

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Well this sucks. Engine that I put in and have 700 miles on knocks/ticks and the oil is sparkly. I'm so pissed at this point, I don't even know what i'm gonna do with myself. Anyone know a good engine builder that won't kill my wallet, in Connecticut?

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I'm 20, and work 17 hours a week at most, and go to school full time. I'm broke as a joke, I wish a crate engine was in the cards but it most definitely isn't at this point. And this is my daily driver

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That sucks with the 350!:doah:
Just don`t give up man, maybe look for a used 350 for cheep to get you going again.

The blazer looks like it`s in good shape.
 
Good news, don't think I killed it. Started it up today, no knock that I could hear. Drove 20 minutes school then home with no problems, and 45-60 psi. changed my oil, metal in the oil was probably from bearings breaking in still, next few hundred miles I'll be checking oil frequently.
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Good luck with the build!I have had similar shiny oil after first start up and what I have done is change the filter and add a quart after the first 100 miles and run it till 500 miles and start every 2800 miles after.
The 305 +20ovr has 215,000 miles and is still strong.
 
I got the front axle under the truck and on rollers, the rear end has been put on hold until today because my angle grinder BURST INTO FLAMES. IN MY HANDS. Waiting for my buddy to bring his over for the last 4 rivets, then shackle flip goes on!

Front driveshaft is too short, by probably a couple inches. Are there any known driveshaft swaps I could do, or should I go hunting at the local yard? I have a 700r4.

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I don't know of any straight swap shafts but you might find a shop in or around you to lengthen it but you might wait for the rear to be set so you can get both worked on at the same time.
 
So in the last few days I have put my hands through hell. Terrible chemicals, dirt, metal, etc etc. 50 cuts easily.

also broke my proportioning valve trying to reset it, or I should say my friend did....with a hammer. Need to bleed the brakes and hook up drive shaft and I'll be good to go!

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Here it is, done as can be. Still need to get brakes all set and looks like I need to get a CV rear shaft.

It's exactly as I wanted it though, looks pretty good for a budget build.

c6e4c89b-b757-f6ad.jpg


c6e4c89b-b5e6-c3d8.jpg


The rear doesn't sag that bad, the truck is parked on a sloped driveway.

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So is that the cup holder that LMC sells? The one that slides into the ashtray? How do you like it?

Truck looks good btw!

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Thanks all!

COCHEV said:
So is that the cup holder that LMC sells? The one that slides into the ashtray? How do you like it?

Truck looks good btw!

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Click to expand...
I like it, though the holes for the actual cups are a bit too small for my liking. I drink alot of Arizona green tea and stuff like that in the big cans, which the holders can't accommodate. fits soda cans and disposable coffee cups pretty well and also holds my change, and that's all I need.


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