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Project Caddy - 03 Escalade Build

Just an update on this one. I wheeled it a half a dozen times or so, then sold it after my 2nd daughter was born out of frustration with the inability to go out without causing undue stress on my poor wife by leaving her at home with both kids on her own.

I've held onto the cash from the sale (which was way too little money for the truck) and plan to start another build. I'm debating heavily between buying an 88 K5 blazer with a 6.2L turbo diesel, NV4500 / NP205 with dodge 1 tons or doing a solid axle swap on my 08 Tahoe hybrid. The K5 is a real return back to my golden days when I ran square bodies all over the place with a simple, reliable and cheap to maintain rig that can do just about anything around here on 35s, but I also think the hybrid would make for another unique build and would also make for a good daily driver if I manage to build it right. The big unknown with the hybrid is how that 2ML70 transmission will behave while wheeling. The 6.0L and the MP3023 would be fine, but the drive motors are only 80hp and there is no torque converter. The gas engine does direct drive as well but only once you get the thing moving off the electric motors. I'd hate to put all that effort into a solid axle swap and wind up with a rig that doesn't work off road. My hesitation with the K5 is that parts are super scarce around here these days and it is in pieces so it would need to be re-assembled and a whole new interior installed to make it family friendly.
Seen that K5 for sale recently. Cool Alberta built rig! Also remember when he was on here. Too bad it all in pieces. Maybe get a screaming deal on it though because of it?

Its just a old square… easy to put back together. Parts are out there, but the prices are definitely going up.

Congrats on the second child the new place, and all the good things Russell!
 
Scott came up here and bought some junk off me a few years back...i can't even remember what now. lol. I do remember meeting him though, and that he drove up here from Calgary.
 
Just an update on this one. I wheeled it a half a dozen times or so, then sold it after my 2nd daughter was born out of frustration with the inability to go out without causing undue stress on my poor wife by leaving her at home with both kids on her own.
I feel this, but I just parked mine. That and money is tight at the moment...

As much as I want to say the K5, I'm intrigued by the hybrid wheeler idea. Kinda depends on if the electric motors are AC or DC, AC motors would handle being stalled with power going through them much better than DC will. Gearing would make a huge difference.

Maybe start off with a lift kit and see how the hybrid would handle bigger tires and off-road stress, then if it works well, then do an axle swap.
 
Do the hybrids even have 4Lo?

I feel like you should experiment and find a steep embankment to climb at crawl speed to see if the electric motor will do it.
How is the motor cooled? Is there a motor winding temp sensor? Maybe you can get to in HP Tuners scanner?
 
The hybrid runs 3 phase 80hp AC drive motors fed with a 300V DC battery through an inverter. The electric drive motors are both internal to the transmission and cooled with ATF, which is cooled through a very large cooler in front of the radiator. The electric fans run to cool the transmission oil as well as to cool the engine coolant. There is a separate coolant system for the inverter with it's own little electric fan as well. The 2ML70 is a super beefy transmission. I have no fear of it mechanically failing any more than an Allison transmission would worry me. The planetary gear sets inside of it are massive and it has huge clutches and frictions for the 4 forward gears. It is based on the same electric hybrid Allison transmission that has been in busses for the better part of a decade with great reliability.

The MP3023 transfer case is the same auto trac 4wd transfer case you'd find behind any other half ton truck of similar vintage. It's got a 32 spline input shaft and has 2wd, auto 4wd, 4hi and 4lo (with a 2.72:1 low range). NWF is able to supply a front slip yoke eliminator for a max of a 1310 u-joint without hitting the shift motor on the side of it. Since I don't plan to do any hard core offroading with this rig any time soon, I'm happy to run the smaller size joint.

I've done a little bit of messing around with the hybrid in low range and haven't come across any situations that the drive motor was unable to get the vehicle started from including climbing up onto a trailer. Especially in low range. It does great in deep snow and has no problems busting the tires loose while accelerating. Once the vehicle is travelling fast enough to direct drive the 6.0L in 1st gear the electric motors act more as assist motors than not. In low range the vehicle does not auto-stop the engine and does not run exclusively off the electric drive motors at all.

I honestly think it would be fine offroad, but I'm hesitant to put all the time and effort in and be wrong.

There is limited support for the hybrid PCMs with HPtuners or EFILive. Both are able to download from and re-flash the PCM, but I only really have the ability to change the tire size and gearing along with a few other options like disabling VATs which I can only presume is the same as the other LS PCMs. I've asked both how much it would cost to R&D the tuning tables and both companies said that there is such a tiny market segment for them (aka me) that they simply wouldn't waste their time but both said if I figured it out on my own they'd happily add it to their software. I don't know the first thing about figuring that kind of stuff out on my own, so it simply won't happen. That said, changing the tire size is about the only thing I'd want to do as far as tuning goes anyways so it's a moot point.

The Tahoe is in pretty decent shape with only 180k km (111k miles) on it. I bought it for $2000 a year ago with a grenaded input planetary gearset. I would love to know what happened to it to fragment that massive planetary set! I picked up a used transmission for $500 out of a pickup that had a cabin fire. Winds up the transmission was hurt in the fire or was damaged before and it has a slight slip on the 2-3 shift. I also bought a "reconditioned" set of battery modules for it and it winds up that at least one of the modules is junk. The battery energy module reports that one set of batteries is slightly out of voltage spec as compared with the rest and it's discharging the whole pack while it is sitting. I bought my own equipment to test and match modules, recondition the battery pack and balance charge it but just haven't had the time to go through the 80 odd modules I have from the old pack and the new pack that's in it to pick out the best 40 to put into service. The interior is clean, it already has a set of Fab 4s bumpers on it and a 10k Warn VR winch along with bushwacker pocket flares. The rear shocks are pretty much finished, but otherwise it has no major mechanical problems. I have a 3rd transmission with only 110k km on it that came from an SUV that got rolled and I also have a full set of soft goods & rebuild parts to fix the one that's in it with new frictions, steels, springs and a complete set of gaskets. The transmission is simple enough I figured I would be willing to try my hand at giving it an overhaul. I scored a copy of a factory service manual for the transmission which has all the details for clearances, part numbers and exploded diagrams to go through it. I also like that the Tahoe has LATCH child seat points in it for putting the kids seats into it, and it has a 3rd row to take other passengers with me.

The idea of the hybrid SUV build excites me more than the basic K5 does, but the K5 is something tried and true. I found a second 88 K5 in Lethbridge a couple hours away that has a clean interior and a solid frame that hasn't had the steering box torn off it or the front suspension ripped off of it, and also has the 89-91 front clip I really like on the front of it. He's asking $7k for it which still isn't a terrible price compared to lots of these square bodies on the market right now. The body on that one is completely rotted away. I figured I can put the two of them together and add a set of air lockers, some trailready bumpers and a nice set of dakota digital gauges and be good to go with a nice turbocharged 6.2L diesel, NV4500, NP241 and 1 ton axles for a 5 seater trail rig I can take the kids out in.
 
I got a call from the guy who bought the caddy tonight - Asking me if I wanted to buy it back. I was initially super excited by the idea, then the more I thought about it and knowing that he grenaded the ZF6 I decided not to. His asking price is alright, but the truck needs a ton of money's worth of work to make it right again so I think I'll just pour that money into a new build instead. I like building them more than driving them anyways which is also why I've decided to go with the Tahoe build. It'll involve some work that is going to stretch my capabilities which can be frustrating, but also very rewarding when you eventually solve the problems that come up. I did like Riley's idea of starting with an IFS lift, and I am definitely going to consider that as an option before pursing the solid axle swap.

To start, however, I'm going to get the transmission and the high voltage battery sorted out. Then install some accessories like a switch panel, York OBA kit and my communications.

The build plan is as follows:

2008 Chevy Tahoe hybrid
- 6.0L LFA, 2ML70 2 mode electric hybrid transmission and MP3023 autotrac t-case. The t-case will get a front slip yoke eliminator kit from NWF.
- 07+ Ford D60 front axle and all stock front suspension including the ford coil buckets, shocks, radius arms, steering & track bar. The front diff will get an elocker and some stronger axle shafts.
- 11+ Ford Sterling 10.5" rear axle fitted with the stock Tahoe suspension bracketry. I'll likely need to extend the rear control arms a bit and adjust the track bar mounts to re-center the axle and add some lift coil springs out back. The 2011+ 10.5" Sterling rear ends come factory with an option elocker.
- The stock 48V electrically assisted rack and pinion steering will be removed along with it's crossmember and a stock 2020+ F-250 steering box will be mounted to the frame along with a fair bit of bracing. I'll install a 12V Toyota Spyder MR2 3rd gen electric steering pump assembly which is popular with the EV crowd. It has variable assist levels depending on speed, steering angle and pressure requirements which help to reduce strain on the DC-DC charger and alternator.
- York engine driven OBA
- The truck will be kept as low as possible with the goal to run 35-37" tires. I am not going for a whole lot of suspension travel with this build, hence the short arm multi-link out back and the stock Ford radius arm suspension up front.

My overall goal is to have a truck that I can take on our easy off-road trails in the area with the kiddos a couple times a year, but also to be able to drive it to work and back comfortably. I doubt this one will articulate well enough to do the harder stuff at Moab but honestly I don't really need or want to do those kinds of trails anymore. They scare my wife and kids which I don't want to do.

When will I get started? Well, probably not for a few months at least. I don't have a space or the time to do the transmission swap until I get a shop built. But I can work on some of the accessories and the 300V battery issues in the meantime on the driveway.
 
You could just buy back the Caddy fix it and just not run the hard stuff with the family.

The caddy needs a bunch of suspension, steering, engine and transmission work.

- It sits on the bump stops at ride height on 37s so it really needs a lift to get the suspension mid travel and then it would need a set of 40s to look proportional. 40s would mean a bunch of cutting and trimming on the fender wells front and rear to fit them at full stuff.
- The PSC steering pump doesn't provide adequate flow to maintain pressure at idle which means that I loose steering assist and brake assist. I tried modifying the pump, replacing it and even putting an underdrive pulley on to spin it faster and idle and never really fixed this problem. I had the same issue with the LB7 in the 95 2 door as well.
- The engine needs injectors and at least 3 glow plugs.
- The transmission rear case half is blown apart, so it will need a new transmission as well.

All that adds up to $10K+ in repairs on top of the re-purchase price which is nowhere near a $10k discount haha. I don't really want to spend that on the caddy - I'd rather start a new build.
 
I got a call from the guy who bought the caddy tonight - Asking me if I wanted to buy it back. I was initially super excited by the idea, then the more I thought about it and knowing that he grenaded the ZF6 I decided not to. His asking price is alright, but the truck needs a ton of money's worth of work to make it right again so I think I'll just pour that money into a new build instead. I like building them more than driving them anyways which is also why I've decided to go with the Tahoe build. It'll involve some work that is going to stretch my capabilities which can be frustrating, but also very rewarding when you eventually solve the problems that come up. I did like Riley's idea of starting with an IFS lift, and I am definitely going to consider that as an option before pursing the solid axle swap.

To start, however, I'm going to get the transmission and the high voltage battery sorted out. Then install some accessories like a switch panel, York OBA kit and my communications.

The build plan is as follows:

2008 Chevy Tahoe hybrid
- 6.0L LFA, 2ML70 2 mode electric hybrid transmission and MP3023 autotrac t-case. The t-case will get a front slip yoke eliminator kit from NWF.
- 07+ Ford D60 front axle and all stock front suspension including the ford coil buckets, shocks, radius arms, steering & track bar. The front diff will get an elocker and some stronger axle shafts.
- 11+ Ford Sterling 10.5" rear axle fitted with the stock Tahoe suspension bracketry. I'll likely need to extend the rear control arms a bit and adjust the track bar mounts to re-center the axle and add some lift coil springs out back. The 2011+ 10.5" Sterling rear ends come factory with an option elocker.
- The stock 48V electrically assisted rack and pinion steering will be removed along with it's crossmember and a stock 2020+ F-250 steering box will be mounted to the frame along with a fair bit of bracing. I'll install a 12V Toyota Spyder MR2 3rd gen electric steering pump assembly which is popular with the EV crowd. It has variable assist levels depending on speed, steering angle and pressure requirements which help to reduce strain on the DC-DC charger and alternator.
- York engine driven OBA
- The truck will be kept as low as possible with the goal to run 35-37" tires. I am not going for a whole lot of suspension travel with this build, hence the short arm multi-link out back and the stock Ford radius arm suspension up front.

My overall goal is to have a truck that I can take on our easy off-road trails in the area with the kiddos a couple times a year, but also to be able to drive it to work and back comfortably. I doubt this one will articulate well enough to do the harder stuff at Moab but honestly I don't really need or want to do those kinds of trails anymore. They scare my wife and kids which I don't want to do.

When will I get started? Well, probably not for a few months at least. I don't have a space or the time to do the transmission swap until I get a shop built. But I can work on some of the accessories and the 300V battery issues in the meantime on the driveway.

Great to hear you are starting another one! Can't wait to watch it come together.
 
Broke ground on my new shop this week. Putting up a 26x37 shop with 16' ceilings, two 10' wide by 12' tall overhead doors, one 7'x7' overhead door on the side into the yard and a 8'x25' mezzanine at the back. It's a slightly miniaturized version of the 26x50' shop I had at my last place. My wife and I moved to a small community about 20 minutes away from where I work (as compared to being an hour away before) to save money on my commute and maximize my time with my family. The shop is supposed to be completed by the end of January. I can then move all my crap back in. My first priority is to get the Chevelle done. Then I'll start on the Tahoe.

20221013_180903.jpg

As far as the Tahoe goes - When I bought it I found that the 300V traction battery was really weak. I killed the thing while cranking the engine over to do a compression test to the point that I had to charge the 300V battery via the 12V battery using the internal jump start feature in the inverter module to get it to start again. I removed the modules from the battery and found that they were really weak. The Prius guys have devised a cheap at home testing option where you hook up a 12V 50W headlight to the module and depending on how long it takes to discharge from 8V down to 6V you can get a rough estimate on the capacity left. A new 6.5Ah module will last for hours. A decent one will last for an hour. A marginal one lasts for 30 minutes and anything less than that it was time to replace them. My best module lasted for about 10 minutes.

I went to GM to order a new battery pack and was told that they are sold out and while the part number is still valid, the manufacturer doesn't make them anymore and GM has stopped selling reconditioned modules. Same story with all the other brands that use the same modules to make their battery packs.

Without any real other options I bought a reconditioned set from a US based battery reconditioner who claimed that he only assembles batteries from sets of modules with at least 5Ah of capacity and that he matches blocks by internal resistance and ensures that all the modules have a recharge and discharge capacity within 5% of each other throughout the whole battery to ensure that the pack is balanced within factory specifications for the Prius (which is much more stringent than the GM factory specs). I put the batteries in and immediately noticed that the vehicle was performing worse than before. The transmission felt like it was slipping, the engine barely started (it is started by one of the drive motors in the transmission) and if I put the transmission into gear too fast after starting the vehicle wouldn't move. But, I was moving and didn't the time to further troubleshoot. I originally suspected the transmission to be at fault, but the more I thought about it I started to suspect that the new battery modules were junk. I finally broke down and bought a module tester from Prolong Battery Systems (which cost more than the reconditioned batteries did) and found that the pack of modules he sent me are worse than the factory originals. I've found internally shorted modules that cannot be charged to the full 8.6V of capacity, discharge capacities anywhere from 0.2Ah to 5.7Ah and internal resistances from 20 mOhms to 45 mOhms (above 30 is bad). Either dude doesn't test his modules beyond checking voltages and is selling randomly assembled used modules without any idea what he is selling or he knows perfectly well that his assemblies are crap and is selling junk intentionally. 1 year warranty my ass, he ghosted me as soon as I sent him my test data. Another $2000 down the drain. If it was just only or two bad modules as I'd originally suspected I figured I could replace them and carry on, but the whole pack needs to be replaced.

There were only two other options available on the market at the time for replacement modules. Both made by a Chinese battery firm Ceba and both with terrible reviews from the Prius guys. There is a guy running a business out of his garage who claims to have designed his own modules to sell but they look suspiciously identical to the Chinese modules, just a different color and three times the price so I really did not want to spend the money on a pack that may be no better than what I already have.

I was feeling pretty defeated and was considering hauling the thing to the scrap yard after parting it out when I discovered a 3rd option that recently became commerically available last year and has rave reviews with the Prius crowd. It is another guy selling modules out of his garage - But he is doing something really different. His modules are LiFePO4 instead of NiMH like the factory modules are. The Chinese aftermarket modules use cylindrical cells which totally ruins the cooling air flow within the battery, but these lithium modules are shaped like the factory prismatic modules so the cooling system works like factory. The modules are less than half the weight of the NiMH modules are, which will make the pack way easier to handle on my own. Each of his modules has a custom battery BMS inside that balances all of the lithium cells within the module to have the same voltage to make sure that individual cells don't get over charged / discharged or charged / discharged when the cells are too hot or cold. Something that the factory NiMH cells were incapable of. Since the inverter/charger is configured for NiMH chemistry, he has an interface module integrated with each module's BMS which accepts the NiMH charging and discharging voltages / amperages and modifies them for the lithium cells so they charge and discharge within their specifications. This corrects all of the issues with the OEM charging and discharging systems which degrades the NiMH modules (especially the GM battery energy module). The factory battery energy module is none the wiser that anything has changed. The NiMH cells are 6.5Ah new and the lithium cells are 7.7Ah within the NiMH voltage ranges. Really a clever design using the latest and most stable of lithium battery tech. They are good for -20 to 45C (the NiMH are rated for -10 to 30) but my truck generally sits inside so the temperature shouldn't matter much. I'll just make sure I don't drive the hybrid to work on the days we have where it is going to be colder than -20. The prius guys who are running them down in the US have collectively put millions of miles on these packs and have noticed zero degradation in capacity or internal resistance in that time, with some guys testing the modules on a regular basis with professional testing equipment to check capacities which remain at the name plate capacity, unlike the Chinese modules which often come at no better than 3Ah of capacity new. The Lithium cells are rated to sit for up to 3 months without use without losing any charge, while the NiMH batteries all self discharge due to differences in internal resistance and will be dead within a month of sitting. I've got a 300V battery maintainer I bought to keep the batteries topped up while the vehicle sits.

There is huge demand for the lithium modules so he sells out super fast. I happened to get the notification on FB that he had a shipment arriving and opened up a pre-sale today so I jumped on it and scored a set. They set me back $4500, but based on the 7 years of real life testing data that the guy provided in multiple different vehicles in all climate types I think they are going to work fine. An OEM set from GM would have been around $3000 if they were available and the reconditioned set was $2000. Should be shipping in about 2 weeks. I'm really happy to be putting in a high quality and North American made battery that I shouldn't have to even think about for the rest of the life of the vehicle. I'm really hoping that fresh cells of ample capacity will completely solve the driveability issues I've been having with the Tahoe and spare me from yet another transmission swap in it.

Screenshot 2022-10-14 003049.png
 
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Holy hell Batman! Talk about jumping into the deep end of the pool. Kudos for taking on the new tech in a different way. Interesting to see how this plays out.
 
Where are the batteries on the Tahoe?
They live under the back seat

60d930bfdec24320b98ae8e39f69080f.jpg

Holy hell Batman! Talk about jumping into the deep end of the pool. Kudos for taking on the new tech in a different way. Interesting to see how this plays out.

I've been stressing over what to do with the batteries for a while. The last time the lithium vendor had any stock was back in June, so I just lucked out getting in on this order. I only paid $2000 for the truck and have put about $1500 into it including buying two transmissions for it, a transmission seal kit and new clutches / frictions and a bunch of interior fixes. I'm kind of hoping that the transmission slip is just the hybrid batteries running flat mid acceleration before the engine goes into direct drive but it only happens on the 2-3 shift so I'm guessing I'll still be swapping the transmission out. I need to replace the aux trans pump controller out with a new one as well to solve the lurch / jump issue these hybrid trucks have in 08 and 09.
 
Broke ground on my new shop this week. Putting up a 26x37 shop with 16' ceilings, two 10' wide by 12' tall overhead doors, one 7'x7' overhead door on the side into the yard and a 8'x25' mezzanine at the back. It's a slightly miniaturized version of the 26x50' shop I had at my last place. My wife and I moved to a small community about 20 minutes away from where I work (as compared to being an hour away before) to save money on my commute and maximize my time with my family. The shop is supposed to be completed by the end of January. I can then move all my crap back in. My first priority is to get the Chevelle done. Then I'll start on the Tahoe.

View attachment 428316

As far as the Tahoe goes - When I bought it I found that the 300V traction battery was really weak. I killed the thing while cranking the engine over to do a compression test to the point that I had to charge the 300V battery via the 12V battery using the internal jump start feature in the inverter module to get it to start again. I removed the modules from the battery and found that they were really weak. The Prius guys have devised a cheap at home testing option where you hook up a 12V 50W headlight to the module and depending on how long it takes to discharge from 8V down to 6V you can get a rough estimate on the capacity left. A new 6.5Ah module will last for hours. A decent one will last for an hour. A marginal one lasts for 30 minutes and anything less than that it was time to replace them. My best module lasted for about 10 minutes.

I went to GM to order a new battery pack and was told that they are sold out and while the part number is still valid, the manufacturer doesn't make them anymore and GM has stopped selling reconditioned modules. Same story with all the other brands that use the same modules to make their battery packs.

Without any real other options I bought a reconditioned set from a US based battery reconditioner who claimed that he only assembles batteries from sets of modules with at least 5Ah of capacity and that he matches blocks by internal resistance and ensures that all the modules have a recharge and discharge capacity within 5% of each other throughout the whole battery to ensure that the pack is balanced within factory specifications for the Prius (which is much more stringent than the GM factory specs). I put the batteries in and immediately noticed that the vehicle was performing worse than before. The transmission felt like it was slipping, the engine barely started (it is started by one of the drive motors in the transmission) and if I put the transmission into gear too fast after starting the vehicle wouldn't move. But, I was moving and didn't the time to further troubleshoot. I originally suspected the transmission to be at fault, but the more I thought about it I started to suspect that the new battery modules were junk. I finally broke down and bought a module tester from Prolong Battery Systems (which cost more than the reconditioned batteries did) and found that the pack of modules he sent me are worse than the factory originals. I've found internally shorted modules that cannot be charged to the full 8.6V of capacity, discharge capacities anywhere from 0.2Ah to 5.7Ah and internal resistances from 20 mOhms to 45 mOhms (above 30 is bad). Either dude doesn't test his modules beyond checking voltages and is selling randomly assembled used modules without any idea what he is selling or he knows perfectly well that his assemblies are crap and is selling junk intentionally. 1 year warranty my ass, he ghosted me as soon as I sent him my test data. Another $2000 down the drain. If it was just only or two bad modules as I'd originally suspected I figured I could replace them and carry on, but the whole pack needs to be replaced.

There were only two other options available on the market at the time for replacement modules. Both made by a Chinese battery firm Ceba and both with terrible reviews from the Prius guys. There is a guy running a business out of his garage who claims to have designed his own modules to sell but they look suspiciously identical to the Chinese modules, just a different color and three times the price so I really did not want to spend the money on a pack that may be no better than what I already have.

I was feeling pretty defeated and was considering hauling the thing to the scrap yard after parting it out when I discovered a 3rd option that recently became commerically available last year and has rave reviews with the Prius crowd. It is another guy selling modules out of his garage - But he is doing something really different. His modules are LiFePO4 instead of NiMH like the factory modules are. The Chinese aftermarket modules use cylindrical cells which totally ruins the cooling air flow within the battery, but these lithium modules are shaped like the factory prismatic modules so the cooling system works like factory. The modules are less than half the weight of the NiMH modules are, which will make the pack way easier to handle on my own. Each of his modules has a custom battery BMS inside that balances all of the lithium cells within the module to have the same voltage to make sure that individual cells don't get over charged / discharged or charged / discharged when the cells are too hot or cold. Something that the factory NiMH cells were incapable of. Since the inverter/charger is configured for NiMH chemistry, he has an interface module integrated with each module's BMS which accepts the NiMH charging and discharging voltages / amperages and modifies them for the lithium cells so they charge and discharge within their specifications. This corrects all of the issues with the OEM charging and discharging systems which degrades the NiMH modules (especially the GM battery energy module). The factory battery energy module is none the wiser that anything has changed. The NiMH cells are 6.5Ah new and the lithium cells are 7.7Ah within the NiMH voltage ranges. Really a clever design using the latest and most stable of lithium battery tech. They are good for -20 to 45C (the NiMH are rated for -10 to 30) but my truck generally sits inside so the temperature shouldn't matter much. I'll just make sure I don't drive the hybrid to work on the days we have where it is going to be colder than -20. The prius guys who are running them down in the US have collectively put millions of miles on these packs and have noticed zero degradation in capacity or internal resistance in that time, with some guys testing the modules on a regular basis with professional testing equipment to check capacities which remain at the name plate capacity, unlike the Chinese modules which often come at no better than 3Ah of capacity new. The Lithium cells are rated to sit for up to 3 months without use without losing any charge, while the NiMH batteries all self discharge due to differences in internal resistance and will be dead within a month of sitting. I've got a 300V battery maintainer I bought to keep the batteries topped up while the vehicle sits.

There is huge demand for the lithium modules so he sells out super fast. I happened to get the notification on FB that he had a shipment arriving and opened up a pre-sale today so I jumped on it and scored a set. They set me back $4500, but based on the 7 years of real life testing data that the guy provided in multiple different vehicles in all climate types I think they are going to work fine. An OEM set from GM would have been around $3000 if they were available and the reconditioned set was $2000. Should be shipping in about 2 weeks. I'm really happy to be putting in a high quality and North American made battery that I shouldn't have to even think about for the rest of the life of the vehicle. I'm really hoping that fresh cells of ample capacity will completely solve the driveability issues I've been having with the Tahoe and spare me from yet another transmission swap in it.

View attachment 428317
I have been switching a lot of my stuff to lithium battery and I like the performance and longevity, not to mention the weight reduction.
On average price is double but lifespan is double as well and performance is a lot better so that is a win
 
Got the NiMH modules all pulled out of the battery pack. Ready and waiting for the new LiFePO4 batteries to show up in 3-4 weeks from now. I also installed a 300V battery tender which I can use to keep the modules topped up when the vehicle is sitting for long periods of time.

20221015_033248.jpg
 
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