CK5
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Project cheap tow rig, 94 cummins...

:haha:

This truck won't even see 1/10th of the abuse his sees
 
I think I'm going to get some lowering shackles for the rear and call it good and sell my 4wd stuff. I just don't think it's worth the down time for this truck. Probably have to add air bags to keep the rear squat manageable with the trailer. I think I'm also going to make some longer shocks work of make shock extenders, I'm pretty sure these are bottoming out but the opposite way

I think some 305/55r20's would look good for a next set of tires also

I'm literally obsessed with the bully dog look :haha:

Heres my friends duramax of 305/55's. Little bit lower in the back because of the trailer though
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I have cast aluminum spacers that are advertised as 3" lift, my stock length 2wd shocks are basically almost fully extended at ride height, so I will be addressing that issue. I've read that I can use stock 4wd shocks. I will get some and report back with the results

Basically I think my truck is about 1-1.5" lower in the front than the rear and this kills me. I think this is the only thing I'm not happy about with my truck

I'm pretty much willing to do a lot to get it to sit right. I had considered converting to four wheel drive but I can't have my truck down for that much time, It's my DD and our only truck that can pull a gooseneck

I'm considering new coil springs currently, at 325k miles they have to of settled a good amount

Basically my goal is at least perfectly level or a little higher in the front, Will to cut and weld components, think cognito leveling kit for the chevys

Here it is, 275/65r20's with 20x9's and I think +9 or 10 offset

I like how it sits in this pic, but thats probably 2000 pounds of tongue weight. I'm willing to buy air bags to make sure it doesn't squat too much with my trailer. Currently have helper springs

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Looks a little better in this pic but I think its the uneven ground

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This pic shows it well, probably only a few hundred pounds of tongue weight at most so it isn't squatted at all

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Would have been radius arm brackets

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...
 
Going to make my rear shackles, I should make them 2" longer to make it an inch lower right?

I'll need to get air bags also

Also thinking about limit straps to keep from bottoming out the shocks and maxing out all the other angles on the ball joints and tie rods

Shocks are about mid travel now, so they are perfect, I'm going to make spacer to make them have less up travel and more down travel

Eventual plan is 33x12.5x20 toyo mud terrains, these have probably 30k miles on them, maybe I'll try to find some more wheels and get my dad to buy them lol
 
Hooked up to my trailer to make sure everything was good for next month, good thing I did

Going back to school tomorrow that is 150 miles away

Was lucky to get a friend to pick me up

I want to upgrade the turbo, but we'll see

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Started smelling like burning oil when I came to a stop and I knew it wasn't my valve cover gasket since I changed those the other day and no more oil was leaking.

So I pulled over and popped the hood and the turbo was smoking

It sent oil through everything but no parts thankfully, and even better no fire

I'm thinking about getting a 62/65/12 d-tech or phatshaft
 
My neighbor just smoked his on his 1st gen and ordered up a rebuild kit. Said it's fairly inexpensive and straight forward. Might be worth looking into.
I have a problem with upgrading stuff that isn't necessary and sucking time/funds away from the actual toy build.

Take it with a grain of salt, just my $0.02. :)
 
I wish I had a little more power, with my truck and trailer it's a little slow to move, with isn't a big deal. It has no power when I'm going about 60ish and have to slow down a few mph then try to pick them back up

$1200 is a lot for a turbo though, then injectors, then head gasket and bolts

In a way it will kind of be a toy hopefully soon, my dads been thinking about getting a dually for towing. Will still be my DD but I drive like an old lady most of the time
 
If.you didn't gall the shaft or touch the housing with the wheels. A turbo rebuild is stupid easy. And about $75 for an overhaul kit.

If you're not upping the fuel a bunch, you don't need a 62.
 
It has about .5" of in and out play

I noticed the in and out when I first got the truck but did'nt know if it was bad or not, it didn't have up and down and still doesn't

The turbo was making a noise so I'm assuming its gailed. At least my truck was making a rattling noise like something was loose, I'm assuming it was it

Another problem is I'm 150 miles away from school so I'll have to get my dad to do everything


I figured with the 62 I'd get 90hp or 140hp injectors
 
Ya, Half an inch axial shaft play is totally ****ed. Thrust bearings are destroyed, likely more. Probably not even spinning some times from binding up. Likely that's your lag situation. Should be generally .001"-.003" radial play is allowed as long as it doesn't touch the housing.

Don't tow with 140hp injectors. I wouldn't recommend them at all actually. It's really easy to "over injector" a 12v. You don't need huge sticks to make power.
 
I'm at school right now but my dad was looking at the turbo and said the waste gate lever wasn't moving, so I'm assuming that did it in also

If I was going to upgrade to a bigger single turbo what would you recommend, I've seen a bunch of different recommendations

Also remember that I live in Florida so towing here is a lot different than anywhere else, I can go 300 miles without seeing a hill lol. Except for overpasses. Although I will be going north sometimes to do trails
 
If.you didn't gall the shaft or touch the housing with the wheels. A turbo rebuild is stupid easy. And about $75 for an overhaul kit.

If you're not upping the fuel a bunch, you don't need a 62.

What about a HE351 swap, I dont have any personel expierence with them, but there seem to be a lot of 12 valve guys who like it. They can be had pretty cheap, and IIRC fleece or someone sells the kit to even use the later vgt's with the brake.
 
Have you guys ever actually seen a 351? They're flipping tiny. A 9cm turbine housing, vgt or not, that's ****in small. HY35s use a 9cm hot housing.

Dude, that afe turbo is only a 58mm turbo, for the almost $1200 they want for it. I'd get a used stocker for $100 and rebuild that.

Or I'd stick a brand new HX40 on it. Theyre a 60mm compressor at least, and can be had new from cummins for about $800 here in Canada from Western Canada cummins. I imagine you have cheaper dealers in the states, just like everything else. I've run holset HX40s before. And as the secondary in 2 different.twin turbo setups. A 40 with a 12cm housing, 4" discharge. That's a decent cheap upgrade over a HX35.
 
Going to order the super b single tomorrow, was able to get a pretty good deal and no tax on it

Next up is gauges, and 5x.012's, then I'm going to have the 3k gsk put in, I pulled it apart to put them but it seemed difficult to change so I put it back together

I'll probably do the injectors last
 
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