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Project DieselWarrior ( ++ Updated: 25 Aug 10 w/PART 23 VIDEO ++ )

getoffyourass.jpg
 
Nice to have it out on the road and stuff instead of the driveway...good job!

FWIW all K5's have that exhaust fumes issue, and as you discovered the solution is between 90 and 45 degrees out the side rather than straight out the back. A second solution is the old station wagon deflector on the back or the hardtop which fukcs up the vacuum effect behnd the truck. I don't like the 'visual' though...but it does work very well and keeps the rear glass a lot cleaner.

Rene
 
Well, good point on the air damn... However since I plan on putting a cargo rack on top, I think that will screw up the aerodynamics enough to effect the same change. What do you think? I could even put some sheet metal all the way across the vertical part only on the rear, that would act like a damn!

Thanks for the encouragement, there's a LOT left to do, but at least it is on the road!

Left to do:

1) Paint the interior
2) Pull dent on driver's side
3) Patch rust on tailgate
4) New weather strip on tailgate
5) Repair/rebuild driver's side battery box
6) Lift driver's seat (I feel like Im 12 years old when I drive it, I sit down too far!)

In the near future:
1) Ammo can with 'safe top' strong box center console (Maybe Ill sell some too? Anyone interested?)


Next summer:
1) Fix dash where a radio was installed with a chainsaw
2) Paint dash, ceiling and doors
3) Fix the lift on the front with springs and pitman arm
4) Drop shackle kit on rear
5) Monster cargo rack :eek1:

Undetermined time frame:
1) Custom front bumper
2) Learn to TIG
3) Learn to MIG :D


Andrew
 
I've also heard that a factory Rear Air Deflector works great at eliminating the exhaust fumes from coming in through the rear window. My exhaust is angled out the driver's side and I still get fumes if I open the rear window. I've looked for the last 3 years for a Rear Air Deflector and haven't found one yet.

Nice work DieselWarrior...keep at it and you'll be amazed at the outcome.
 
skidog1us said:
I still get fumes if I open the rear window
Click to expand...
And, you will most likely will, forever... I opended mine about 4 inches and got a weeee bit of mox inside, decided it was not worth it.

A roof vent would be a MUCH BETTER alternative, and putting one in the fiberglass top just behind the cab, would make the install very easy!

vent.jpg


No exhaust with that one!! :laugh:

Also, EXHAUST OUT THE SIDES IS CRITICAL!!! I can tell you, there is a MAJOR DIFFERENCE with exhaust out the sides, and out the ass... That was horrible, even with the tail gate sealed up, mox got inside!!

More to come...
Andrew
 
skidog1us said:
I've looked for the last 3 years for a Rear Air Deflector and haven't found one yet.
Click to expand...

Mental note: See if one can be made with the nifty MIG I got... some sheet metal, some angle iron.. Yup... I think it could be done! :rolleyes:

I would be willing to try and build one... Ive got to do some research on this...


Andrew
 
I'd look at robbing one off of a malibu wagon, or a mini van at the wrecking yards. I'm pretty sure there was never a factory air deflector available for a K5.

Rene
 
man my cab could kill you if you drove too long... I guess blasting the exhaust halfway under the truck doesn't do much good :doah:
 
Parts 16 and 17 encoding and uploading now...

I finally got the rust hole on the tail gate fixed, I report on the effects of using Seafoam for a clean up, and the Stadadyne fuel additive... The 6.2 runs like a NEW ENGINE now! I was really worried Id need a new IP and injectors.

I hope this Sunday I can repair/rebuild the battery box on the (L), its totally rusted through!

Vids should be ready tomorrow at the latest...

Andrew
 
Awesome videos! I just spent about an hour watching this stuff!! :waytogo:

You're right, it's a lot more fun watching videos than looking at photos.


A quick tip on sheetmetal patches: Cut the patch piece first. Make it a size that will cover the damage, then use a Sharpie to trace the shape onto the body. The cutoff wheel is just about the perfect thickness, so if you stay on the lines when you do your cuts you'll have a perfectly matched hole and a good size "gap" for the welder.

A 60-grit flap wheel disc will do a beautiful job for final cleanup once you knock down the major parts of the welds with your grinding stone. Probably good enough that you won't care about body filler.

BTW -> in video 12 you weren't sure about that footwell vent. Not sure if you figured it out yet, but that is ducting from the cowl to allow fresh air in. The vacuum canister allows it to open depending on how the levers are set on your ventilation controls. I find that those cowl vents tend to be filled with pine needles and dirt and can rust out eventually. You might be getting fumes from the engine through there too, some "duct tape diagnostics" will tell you for sure! :D


:usaflag:
 
Thanks 72!

I figured out the duct, cut the kickpanel plastic around it, and re-installed it.

That was a GREAT tip on the body work, a little late, but a great tip! :haha:

With the exhaust pipes out the sides, theres no more fumes inside the cab.

Cheers,
Andrew
 
Well done bro, back on the road, your a bit of an inspiration for people who have had their trucks sittin around for years with the "Gunna" attitude, I'm gunna get onto it next week - I'm stealin your weld description too man, I pissed my self "LLS" Looks like sh!t" you should have your own show, way better than that lame ass "Everyone loves Raymond", I love the sound of the diesel blazers too man, they sound machine like aye!! kepp going with the updates, kinda sad she is nealy finished hahaah :D
 
Theres still plenty to do Kiwi... Im just getting her on the road, is all... still have a jacked up suspension to fix, a cargo rack to build, some D-Rings to put somewhere... the list goes on. Ill get the fancy stuff as $$$ permits, the must-haves will come sooner than the wanna-haves.

Thanks for the encouragement!

Andrew
 
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