CK5
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Project MULE - Expedition build on a 1991 1500 4x4 Suburban

Man, you MUST be living right! :bow::bow::waytogo:
 
Well not so much. Turns out the 305 is really a 305 vortec. BUT... there is light starting to shine through these clouds.

I heve already located a casting number veirfied 350 vortec this one comes with a full harness and ECM. I may pick this one up and then take the spare FI, harness and ECM and sell it with this 305 for $600. this will cover all costs plus put some cash in pocket.
 
Hey, just a fyi while I'm thinking about it: If you find you need new injectors, try this guy clicky :waytogo:

I bought a set back in 09, no problems. btw, I have no connection with him.
 
Im locked in on the tuned port injection and I'll be getting my injectors from precision auto injectors. I've been using him since 2008.
 
OK got lucky. Sold the 305 (the motor I pickup was wrong) in a week and made money on the deal. I then found a '99 Vortec 5.7 locally for a good price complete with accessories. Verified the heads and block casting first this time.:whistle:

This is my own dang fault for not verifying the casting numbers. The guy said it was a 350 and the casting number I first saw was the right numbers just not the ones to verify a block. Mental note and a reminder for everyone. When buying a motor always verify the full casting numbers!

Let the tear down begin!:popcorn:
 
The newer GM blocks should say 5.0LG or 5.7LG right on the back of the block, where the bellhousing bolts up to the engine.

Martin
 
The newer GM blocks should say 5.0LG or 5.7LG right on the back of the block, where the bellhousing bolts up to the engine.

Martin


Yeah the last time I dealt with blocks they were all 70s blocks and dint have litres stamped on them. I didnt know about the litre stamping, and that section was covered in grease anyways. What had happened was the info said the 5.7 will say "880" for the casting. When I first looked at the engine right on the front it said 880. I was like :woot:

When I got it home and a couple days later getting on the engine stand I wiped the back end down and came across the 5.0, then found the full casting number ending in 878 (305). DO'h!

But hey... I made $225 off that engine in one week so good turnover.:thumb:
 
Ok first remove the stupid spider Fuel injection system

engine-001.jpg



Next tear it down until it resembles a small block chevy.

engine-002.jpg


engine-003.jpg



Job well done:haha:
 
i wonder if the heads are cracked... i tore apart a 99 vortec 5.7 for my suburban and both heads were cracked. that should have been my cue to jump on the LS wagon but i bought a set of heads thinking i was gonna build that engine back up. ended up selling it all. i can't remember where they were cracked now.
 
They were prone for cracking between the valves but typically only if you over heated them.

I am selling the whole upper end and just keeping the short block. even with buddy discounts at the local machine shop its still cheaper for me to buy a new set of vortec heads from Summit with springs already goo to go for .520 of lift. and they are thicker too. In fact they recommended these heada as they buy them for their vortec rebuilds.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-151124
 
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While I have never seen Valve springs specifically say "for roller cams only" or not. There are differences. the springs will have to be able to handle being compressed quicker with roller cams.

I had email Summit on these heads and while they are not an exact copy of GM Vortec heads they do flow a bit better. and that still means FAR better then the heads I have now. The springs are meant for Roller cam as all Vortec motors stock are roller cams.
 
Thanks for the info, I was thinking that a spring for the .520 lift of a flat tappet vs the same lift of a roller required different springs and spring pressure.
 
What it the CR with those heads. if you can i would suggest bumping it up to around 9-1 or 9.5-1 if you can i think stock these engine are around 8.75-1. With you TPI you will be able to tune for it.
 

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