Project (Not-So) Budget Buggy

[mikey_d05]

Alright, I've been a member here for a while, and CK5 got me away from web wheeling and prompted me to start on sort of the trademark CK5 build. I put together a blaze orange truck dubbed the flaming pumpkin with a TBI 350, 700R4, NP241, D60, 14BFF, and 40" Boggers. Before I even wheeled it, I plumbed in hydro assist, narrowed the rear, and mounted up an 8274.

I thrashed on it for a little less than a year, IIRC the body lasted five trips before it was totally unfit to wheel anymore. I took it out a sixth time anyways just to make sure it was good and dead.

Then began the planning phase. I drew Solidworks model after Solidworks model and picked out a whole bunch of different parts that I wanted to use. Then, last Sunday, it all went out the window. I found a 500 Caddy motor and attached TH400.

Enough talking, on to the pictures.

The old Pumpkin:

The Carnage So Far:

The Proposed Design:

The final buggy will be full hydro, leaf sprung front, dual tri 4 linked rear, probably air shocks but hopefully coilovers, TBI Caddy 500, TH400, clocked NP241. I'm also going to rework the front end to integrate some blingin Toyota headlights. I'd like for the buggy to end up standing around 6'3" tall or so on the 40's it has now, but we'll see if it's doable when I get there.

Anyways, the motor swap should start in the next week or so with the tubework soon to follow. Hope everyone can chime in with suggestions along the way.

 

[stockk5]

DAMN that tube idea looks great, your orange pumpkin was one of my fav. trucks on here though. goodluck w/ the build!

 

[85mudblazin]

Did you get those springs??

Well all I can say is good luck, its alot of work but the end result is way worth it??

What are you planning on using for link material?? I have been looking at linking mine pretty soon. Going to use 2"x3/8" for the lowers and prolly some sleeved 1 3/4" for the uppers. Then ill use 1 1/4" lower heims and prolly 7/8" uppers. Bad parts is just the heims/adapter/spacers/jam nuts are going to run me $560 bucks.

 

[mikey_d05]

Got the springs, thanks a ton for shipping them. I don't know how much uptravel they're gonna have after I sling that caddy and TH400 at them but hopefully they'll work out. Might even stick a zero rate under them to get the tires out past the spring mounts if the pinion angle isn't horrendous.

As for link material, I really don't know about the uppers yet. For lowers I'd like to run 2", .5" wall just for stupid overkill factor. I REALLY don't want to bend a link any time soon. Heims and hardware absolutely kill the wallet. I'm thinking of running Johnny joints or some other cheaper alternative. Around here crazy flex isn't incredibly important, it's more about keeping the tires planted and the axle from hopping.

I probably would have gotten it to the point where it was wheelable this summer had I stuck with the Chevy motor but between bringing the Caddy to life again and mating the 241 to a TH400 with the wrong output shaft, it's probably going to be the middle of next summer before I can hit the trails again. On the bright side, you guys might also see me swap a TBI 350 into my buddy's Toyota.

 

[Drey]

Man if I had half your ambition...
Go wheel your Tahoe while your building your rig. Its way to clean get some mud on it

 

[ryan22re]

Poly bushings on one end and a Johnny Joint on the other. I'd use the big Johnny joints too if it were me. Oh, and they suck to assemble.

 

[85mudblazin]

Poly bushings on one end and a Johnny Joint on the other. I'd use the big Johnny joints too if it were me. Oh, and they suck to assemble.

Yea I like the poly's and JJ's but they are still a rubber compound so its going to give a little. That little bit of give is enough to start hopping. I want all heims to keep everything adjustable and to get rid of any slack that may introduce wheel hop.

 

[supersize75k5]

Did you get those springs??

Well all I can say is good luck, its alot of work but the end result is way worth it??

What are you planning on using for link material?? I have been looking at linking mine pretty soon. Going to use 2"x3/8" for the lowers and prolly some sleeved 1 3/4" for the uppers. Then ill use 1 1/4" lower heims and prolly 7/8" uppers. Bad parts is just the heims/adapter/spacers/jam nuts are going to run me $560 bucks.

dear gawd!


I was calling around to order my crap, for a set up with a big block, a few vendors simply stated 7/8 hiems, 1 and 3/4 inch aluminum lower links should handle what I throw at it

look up jk fabrications on ebay, or search for hiems, he had some awesome pricing and included misalighnment shims, weld in insert and jam nuts with his price, for a full set up for 8 link ends with 3/4 it was 300.00

 

[marv_springer]

TBI Caddy 500, TH400, clocked NP241.

Mikey,

You have any concerns about the 241 hangin' w/ 500 cubes of Torque...?


I knew at least 2 guys in the 90's who wrecked 208's by swapping in 454's...

Marv

 

[mikey_d05]

Mikey,

You have any concerns about the 241 hangin' w/ 500 cubes of Torque...?


I knew at least 2 guys in the 90's who wrecked 208's by swapping in 454's...

Marv

To be totally honest, I don't think it's gonna last. However, I'm gonna give it a shot. It's already gonna be heavy enough so I don't really want to hang a 205 off the back of all that but if I break a 241 that's what's gonna happen. Time will tell.

 

[Chaddy]

To be totally honest, I don't think it's gonna last. However, I'm gonna give it a shot. It's already gonna be heavy enough so I don't really want to hang a 205 off the back of all that but if I break a 241 that's what's gonna happen. Time will tell.

If I were you I would save for an AtlasII with your choice of gearing.

 

[85mudblazin]

If I were you I would save for an AtlasII with your choice of gearing.

Get a Stak.

Or wait until I get mine in a few weeks and see how I like it

 

[85mudblazin]

dear gawd!


I was calling around to order my crap, for a set up with a big block, a few vendors simply stated 7/8 hiems, 1 and 3/4 inch aluminum lower links should handle what I throw at it

look up jk fabrications on ebay, or search for hiems, he had some awesome pricing and included misalighnment shims, weld in insert and jam nuts with his price, for a full set up for 8 link ends with 3/4 it was 300.00

Yea but a 3/4" heims is going to run about $30, a 1 1/4" heims is about $60 for a good one.
Thats about twice the cost.

As for the aluminum links. Have you priced that stuff out lately and I thought DOM was expensive.

 

[Citizen Rider]

and I thought DOM was expensive.

Man, your spoiled with your metal prices, your paying for DOM what im paying for HREW!

 

[mikey_d05]

Get a Stak.

Or wait until I get mine in a few weeks and see how I like it

Holy hell man, rob many banks lately?

For now an aftermarket case is outta the question. After the buggy is running in a year or two, there are BIG plans though.

 

[85mudblazin]

Holy hell man, rob many banks lately?

Was going to ask you the same thing

Well it was either link the rear or buy a Stak. I can live with the leafs a little while longer, need more gearing!!

 

[supersize75k5]

"As for the aluminum links. Have you priced that stuff out lately and I thought DOM was expensive."


for the links,


65.00 for machining, and 17 buck per foot for 1 3/4" the 2 inch is a few bucks more per foot,

a 36 inch 1 3/4" aluminum with 3/4 inch hiems is just under 200.00 bucks, id say a 2 inch with 1 inch hiems would put it in the 280.00 area

you think thats interesting, start thinking air shocks, 2 inch is 235 a pice, 2.5 inch is 350.00 a piece and 2.5 coil over with res is 1300 for the pair..

ill have a over 2 grand rear suspension lol most folks pay that when they first by their truck!

 

[mouse]

I like the design. Why are you staying with leafs up front? Its an easy one to build, but I would think that a coil/link setup in front would give you better articulation. I also don't see why you couldn't keep the buggy/truggy a bit lower and still run 40's. A lower COG will keep things more stable.

 

[mikey_d05]

This was supposed to be a budget build. I'm a college student so linking the rear is pushing it for me. I found the caddy motor and trans for $200 so I couldn't pass them up but between making it run, rebuilding the trans, and injecting it when I'm done, it's probably gonna cost me $1k that I didn't budget for.

Leaves are quick, easy, and no geometry involved. The front will be linked eventually, but I don't have the money to drop into a different front suspension at the moment. When I get time I'll post up a shot of the springs that 85mudblazin set me. Believe me, this thing WILL flex.

 

[85mudblazin]

Yea I wouldnt mess with linking unless you are going to do it right (coilovers, etc.). Theres a guy in our group that runs aerostar coils front and rear. His truck has some crazy hop in the front making it a 1 legged goat.

The advantage to staying with leafs up front is that it will make the rig alot more stable if you dont get your geometry just right in the rear.
Yes those springs will flex