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Project P-Dub - 1986 K5 Blazer Modifications and Upgrades...

I added the same mirror.....great addition! I got so use to it in the suburban that I just had to have it in the Blazer! I also put one in my daughter's Xterra. Pretty easy addition.

Also, on the headlight install. Did it come set up to run all 4 lights on high beam or did you wire it that way? I have the older lights but added a relay to drive the low beams when the high beams come one. Nice to flood as much as possible.
Mine was the same way (low or high, but not both). I added a relay to the mix and now all 4 lights (low & high) are lit when I'm using high beams.
 
I like the jack idea. I was just gonna do a bottle jack but I like the scissor jack better. Where did u get it and how much?
 
I got mine off eBay for $60. It was unused and looked brand new. It was a little more than I wanted to spend, but I'm glad I did. The base/ground plate it really wide and long, so it shouldn't sink into the ground too bad if I have to change the tire in the country.
 
***** Custom License Plates *****
I finally pulled the trigger on a set of "vanity" plates for my Blazer. Anyhow, here they are...

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Too much good stuff in this thread to just hang out in the search function. Bump to the top.
 
***** New "Highway Friendly" Tires *****
Don't get me wrong, mud tires are my favorite. They look great and will help keep you from getting stuck. But, I'm about to start driving my K5 as a daily driver again. So my mud tires are going into storage for a while. Like I said mud tires look great, but they "beat me down" on long highway driving and commuting to work. So, I drove over to the local Discount Tire Company and bought a full set (and spare) of 31x10.5 R15 BFG tires. They are so much quieter on pavement, and it'll be real hard to ever switch back to mud tires. Plus, I've read on message boards this new TA KO tread pattern is much more fuel efficient (less rolling resistance) than the previous design.

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The Dynomat was kinda pricey. I bought two boxes and a roller for a little over $240. I had almost a full box left over. I eventually plan on taking the carpet out and Dynomatting the floor.[/QUOTE

Im about to start sound damping in mine..i was looking at dynomat vs lizard skin..
 
***** Reupholster Headliner *****
Seems like my headliner starts falling apart every 3 or 4 years. The brutal Texas heat probably has something to do with it. Or maybe the upholstery shop I keep taking it to uses cheap adhesive, or they are half@ss doing the job. Either way I decided I give upholstery work a try (never done it before). So, here goes...

I started with taking out the headliner, and you can see the sad shape it's in. The foam was so broken down that you could write your name with your finger on the headliner and it would forever be mashed into the foam.

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Next I had to scape all of the old broken down foam and adhesive off the backing. I also took this time to take the sun visors to the kitchen sink to lightly scrub them with non-bleach Soft-Scrub and a bristle brush. I was shocked at how clean they became after a few minutes of scrubbing. They almost look new again.

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I've read great reviews about the 3M High Strength 90 spray, so I'm giving it a shot. It has an adjustable nozzle which helps in regulating the amount of adhesive I need. I went to Jo-Anne's Fabrics store and bought 2 yards of automotive headliner foam for less than $10 (on sale). In hindsight I probably could have gotten by with only one yard.

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Here's the final result. The newly reupholstered headliner turned out really nice. There are no more mashed down areas or wrinkles. All in all I think my first attempt at upholstery work turned out pretty good.

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***** Upgrade Seats (2004 Silverado Donor) & Carpet Replacement *****

I'm sure most of you folks are already aware, but 31 year old seats suck. They were awesome back in the day, but fabric deteriorates and the foam and springs tend to wear out over time. Mine were well worn and anything short of replacing them was out of the question. I've researched other peoples projects for several years now, and I think I've learned enough from other people's install to do my own. I'd also like to mention that I am merely sharing my install. I am not a structural engineer nor do I imply the right nor wrong way to replace seats. Once again, I am simply sharing my story.

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I originally set out to replace the seats only. But after I got the seats out of the truck I could see what 31 years of dirt, fast food crumbs, and kiddos can do to a carpet. So, I gutted all of the floor and sidewall carpeting.

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I was disappointed to see so many "spider cracks" in the floor at the seat mounting points. I welded them up as best I could with my mig welder and then painted them. I also fabricated some 3/8" plates for both the top and bottom of the cab. This should provide better support in both upward and downward forces of the seat. Keep in mind that (at best) I'm guessing this is enough support in the event of a future crash. Keeping the seat mounted to the cab is crucial, so I used grade 8 bolts, washers, and lock nuts.

At this point I was fully committed and there wasn't a better time than now to DynoMat the floor. I cleaned the floor as best I could and rubbed it down with alcohol so the DynoMat would have a clean surface to hold onto.

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I found a 2004 Chevy Silverado driver and passenger seat at a local salvage yard for $150. They were in great shape, but they smelled like @SS. I took the seat covers off and put them in my washing machine. I washed them twice with Tide and Downy fabric softner, and most of the smell came out of them. I sat them in the direct sun and let them air dry with 2 box fans on them for 3 days, and at this point there was no more smell to them.

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At this point I put the carpet back in. I called Stock Interiors and ordered a new complete carpet package (front and back) with a rubber backing that's supposed to reduce road noise. I was shocked to see that this stuff is made in America! It was about $500 including shipping. I had to hand cut the 4-wheel drive floor controller, mount points for seats, etc. I then bolted the seats into place, and I couldn't stop smiling. I've been waiting to comfortable seats for many years now. After I tightened the last bolt I just hopped in the truck and sat. I probably just sat in the truck for a good 15 minutes. Man, it was a good feeling.

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The last part of my interior upgrade was to replace the back side panels (31 year old originals). Thankfully they were still in one piece, but they were warped and in bad shape. I first went to Home Depot and bought new fiber board similar in thickness to the panels. I then used the originals as templates to trace out, cut, and drill holes to make new sides. I then used 3M High Strength adhesive spray and some grey fabric to cover the sides. The fabric I used is the same stuff they use to cover speaker boxes, and I found mine on Amazon for less than $20.

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I'm very happy with how everything turned out. And yes, my interior is now 50 shades of gray. :-)
 
Thank you. This was (hopefully) the last big project for a long while. I don't have much spare time anymore.
 
Would you please tell what you did with the speaker system?
I have been thinking of moving the rear speakers forward, so that I still only have 4.

And I like all that you have done to this!!!!
 
First, your interior looks amazing!

Your front seats look similar to what I'm going to use, 00-07 Silverado/Tahoe seats? If yes, do your floor brackets raise them any? I set one of mine in my Blazer and it feels like it might be a little low but I can't drive it to get a good feel. I'm thinking about raising them a couple of inches.

Are you using a "matching" (3rd row) rear seat for the back seat of your Blazer?
 
Would you please tell what you did with the speaker system?
I have been thinking of moving the rear speakers forward, so that I still only have 4.

And I like all that you have done to this!!!!
Thank you. I replaced the original rear factory speaker (I think they were 4"x7") with new 6"x9" and then I installed a pair of 6"x9" in front of the rear wheel-well. I also cut a small "air-hole" about the size of a Coke can next to the front speakers. I installed a small screen cover just for appearance. I also installed new speaker wire that I got from Crutchfield.com. I plan on adding a 6 3/4" round speaker in each door. I have a Rockford Fosgate amp under the driver's seat, but I don't have it in any pictures above. All wiring is placed under the carpet or routed behind the side panels. Back page 2 of this build thread I detailed my dash speaker install. Overall I regret messing with the dash speakers. They are just too small and don't put out much music. In my opinion the 6"x9" speakers are by far the best speaker to go with.
 
First, your interior looks amazing!

Your front seats look similar to what I'm going to use, 00-07 Silverado/Tahoe seats? If yes, do your floor brackets raise them any? I set one of mine in my Blazer and it feels like it might be a little low but I can't drive it to get a good feel. I'm thinking about raising them a couple of inches.

Are you using a "matching" (3rd row) rear seat for the back seat of your Blazer?
Yes, my seats came out of a 2004 Silverado. The center console would have almost perfectly lined up with the seat mount holes in the cab floor, but I noticed the center line of the cab did not line up with the center of the middle seat. There was about a little over a 1" difference. So, I had to move the middle seat over a bit. I have not noticed any significant change in seat height, but I'm sure it's not a exact match to factory height. The steel supports I added were only 3/8" thick, so any additional height was not noticeable. Also, I don't know if GM changed the seat design at all or kept it the same height from 2000 to 2007, but I would not hesitate using the 2005 seat in another K5. Trust me, you'll be very happy doing the seat swap.
 
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Amazing info in here. Very happy to see the pics are still up. Thanks for posting tons of great info.
 
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