CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Project Penny - All good things must come to an end

That is awesome Russell!

Make sure that no one can steal your hoe and trailer when you are at work!!!
Not sure if you can block it with something or not? But seriously do anything you can to make sure it doesn't go missing! :dunno:
 
That is awesome Russell!

Make sure that no one can steal your hoe and trailer when you are at work!!!
Not sure if you can block it with something or not? But seriously do anything you can to make sure it doesn't go missing! :dunno:

It'll be hooked up to my pickup and backed into my yard, if they take the whole thing I would be shocked, amazed and devastated all at the same time!
 
Any pictures of your huge drop hitch your gonna need?

I gotta go shovel a 5 foot drift out of the way to get that camper out
 
Russ the glow plug code is probably the same one I keep throwing. Let me know what you figure out.
 

The NV4500 is now in a local K5, sorry dude!

The glow plug code went away all on it's own after a while. It was P0380, general glow plug failure code. The low coolant light came back, I haven't put the time in to fix it yet.

That said, I have some work to do on my truck... I hit a wash going around 50mph or so and friggin deeeestroyed my front diff :doah:

Carnage included a grenaded set of wheel bearings and locking hub, which damaged the wheel hub, which damaged the chromoly stub shaft, which damaged the brake rotor, which damaged the bracket and ground the caliper bolts up, haha!

Oh, and I also broke the plug welds for the long side axle tube and bent / broke one of my sway bar links :pimp:

So, I think I am going to wind up ordering a high clearance ProRock 60 from Dynatrac for it. Cost is just a little over 2k for a high clearance housing, axle tubes, Reid inner Cs and a HD diff cover. My existing gears, locker, axle shafts and knuckles / spindles etc will all bolt straight in and onto the new housing. I'll also build a truss and convert the truck into a 3 link coil over up front. I should then be able to drive fast without destroying my truck :waytogo:

ProRock_60_FrontRH.jpg


IMG_0278.JPG

IMG_0279.JPG

IMG_0280.JPG

IMG_0284.JPG

IMG_0287.JPG
 
Dam Russell, nicely done!

That is what I fear, an unintended "crash" of the front diff...good luck my friend.
 
I gotta put yet another shout out to Yukon Gear and Axle for big time stepping up to the plate in sponsoring my truck for the race! As you can see, I did a pretty good number on my DS wheel (actually would have lost it without the disc brake there to hold it in place). They supplied me with a new spindle, lock nuts, stub shaft and a pair of their Hardcore locking hubs to repair my truck. They wouldn't let me buy the parts, and only asked that I wear some of the free clothing they also gave me instead :waytogo::pimp: Very cool of them, there is a good chunk of change worth of parts they gave me there.

Ruff Stuff Specialities welded the axle tube up in the open pit but as the welder said, and I knew was going to happen, the weld broke and the diff is sitting crooked / leaking again.

I recieved a quotation from Dynatrac, and I am just needing to decide if I want to go for their beefier 60 front housing, or if I want to spend a bit more and get one of their high clearance housings for an extra 350 bucks. Regardless of which way I go, I am going to install a truss for mounting the 3 link up. It is just an issue of the extra money vs a few inches of ground clearance gained...

What say ya'll?
 
Why not a fabricated housing in the front? Only reason to say is it'd be easier to make it 100% fit to the truck.
 
Why not a fabricated housing in the front? Only reason to say is it'd be easier to make it 100% fit to the truck.

Only Ruff Stuff offers a fabricated housing for a drop in 3rd member D60, but the 3rd member hasn't hit mass production yet. I don't want to switch to a 9" 3rd member as that would mean a new locker, gears and inner axle shafts (much bigger $$$)

The only three options I am have to consider is the ProRock 60, a Currie RockJock ($4k for the same setup as the ProRock) or trussing a factory housing ($1500 just for a used axle around here, I am not sure mine is repairable)
 
Wow, I just read this entire thread. I thought it was still an automatic, and it never really interested me. Now it is probably one of my favorite rigs on here.

Oh, and you are hard on Dana 60s.

Martin
 
Only Ruff Stuff offers a fabricated housing for a drop in 3rd member D60, but the 3rd member hasn't hit mass production yet. I don't want to switch to a 9" 3rd member as that would mean a new locker, gears and inner axle shafts (much bigger $$$)

The only three options I am have to consider is the ProRock 60, a Currie RockJock ($4k for the same setup as the ProRock) or trussing a factory housing ($1500 just for a used axle around here, I am not sure mine is repairable)

I don't know the actual time frames here Russell but The Drop out 60 setup might be closer than you think. I want to say in the next few months you could have a housing and drop out.

We run the Dynatrac Prorock 60 ion the race car and it's nice.

I have become a HUGE fan of fabricated housings. We built a fully trussed and custom 14b for the rear of the race car and now three KOH races later it needs another new housing. If we were doing the fabiracted housing thing we would just through the housing in a jig and install truss and brackets and be done. With a normal cast type housing you have pre heat post heat and all sorts of BS that goes along with that.
 
I don't know the actual time frames here Russell but The Drop out 60 setup might be closer than you think. I want to say in the next few months you could have a housing and drop out.

We run the Dynatrac Prorock 60 ion the race car and it's nice.

I have become a HUGE fan of fabricated housings. We built a fully trussed and custom 14b for the rear of the race car and now three KOH races later it needs another new housing. If we were doing the fabiracted housing thing we would just through the housing in a jig and install truss and brackets and be done. With a normal cast type housing you have pre heat post heat and all sorts of BS that goes along with that.

I would have no complaints with running a drop out third member with a fabricated housing for all the same reasons -- Super easy to truss and add links to etc.

Maybe I'll get a hold of the Ruff Stuff guys and see if he can give me a better timeline of when I could get the drop out and the housing...
 
The real guy to talk with is in Lamar Colorado. He is the one making the drop outs. Branik machine is involved too. I know that they are doing or are about to do another production run and were saying they thought they would cover all pre orders and put some on the shelf.

I think it's Jrat offroad. Look on Pirate in the Gen 4x4 section and you will find it.
 
He's got all the gearing and ground clearance he needs. This failure was due to the weight of the truck + the speed of the impact with a stock un-trussed housing.
 
Top Bottom