I wonder if I can get them through work I get a rather good discount. Let me know if you want me to check it out Russell.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Project Penny - All good things must come to an end
- Thread starter Russell
- Start date
New engine acquired... I'm going to swap a few things around and drop it in this next week.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Should make things less stressful.
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
Looking forward to seeing what you do for a sway bar. 
Looking forward to seeing what you do for a sway bar.
Pics coming soon! I have all the required materials on hand now
I went with a dual rate sway bar from ORO. It is actually designed to be used with a Jeep TJ but ORO can make the sway bar any width that you need, and is also able to make custom arm lengths as well (I was able to use the standard size with my swap)
The sway bar fits into a chunk of 2" .120 wall DOM tubing with a 1.75" ID using bushings that ORO supplied. The main swaybar is a 1.5" in diameter hollow tube which and slipped inside of it is a much smaller low rate solid bar. On one side, both the sway bars are connected together, on the other there is an arm connected to the big outer bar, and one to the smaller inner bar. When locked into highway mode, both are locked together and act as a very solid 1.5" sway bar for very good highway handling characteristics. When unlocked, only the thin inner swaybar is connected. It is sized to allow my truck to fully articulate, but still provide a bit more side hill stability as compared to none at all. The actuation is done with a small pnumatic piston mounted to the driver's side arms. The bar naturally locks in highway mode and unlocks when air is applied.
Of course, the links are going to need to be adjusted once I drop the drivetrain back in, but that is basically how it'll sit once it is all fitted up.
All that is good and well, but I know ya'll are like me and ignore the words instead going straight for the pitchers!!! So with no further adu!
The sway bar fits into a chunk of 2" .120 wall DOM tubing with a 1.75" ID using bushings that ORO supplied. The main swaybar is a 1.5" in diameter hollow tube which and slipped inside of it is a much smaller low rate solid bar. On one side, both the sway bars are connected together, on the other there is an arm connected to the big outer bar, and one to the smaller inner bar. When locked into highway mode, both are locked together and act as a very solid 1.5" sway bar for very good highway handling characteristics. When unlocked, only the thin inner swaybar is connected. It is sized to allow my truck to fully articulate, but still provide a bit more side hill stability as compared to none at all. The actuation is done with a small pnumatic piston mounted to the driver's side arms. The bar naturally locks in highway mode and unlocks when air is applied.
Of course, the links are going to need to be adjusted once I drop the drivetrain back in, but that is basically how it'll sit once it is all fitted up.
All that is good and well, but I know ya'll are like me and ignore the words instead going straight for the pitchers!!! So with no further adu!
That going to clear your tires at full lock Russ?
Thats a bitchen sway bar but a little overcomplicated for me
Being a simpleton and stuff
Thats a bitchen sway bar but a little overcomplicated for me
Being a simpleton and stuff
Yup, it should clear the tires no problem. Only concerns include not hitting the steering box bolts at full stuff or the tie rod at full droop. May need to do some tweaking when I get the drivetrain in
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
Looks like a well thought out approach to a sway bar. The tension adjustability looks like a nice option as well. What width did you have ORO cut your sway bar to? Have you tried it on the interstate yet? Interested to hear how it performs.
That looks like a monster truck swaybar, nice man!
New engine is in 
This engine sounds waaaay healthier than the old one. It is an 03 vs an 02 like the old one, so I had to make some wiring changes (different main connector pinouts, different oil pressure sensor) to run the 02 PCM with the 03 engine harness but otherwise it was nearly a bolt in swap (the 03s got a new PCM, better FICM and FPR along with a lot of serial comms vs analog signaling).
The old one used to rumble a bit more at idle, but it also vibrated a lot more. The plastic inside the truck used to buzz and the transmission used to be very noisy with transmitted engine clatter. It didn't really sound quite like a Duramax at idle. This one does. It idles glass smooth, no more vibrations or buzzing plastic. The transmission is nearly silent. There is no more rumbling at idle, it sounds exactly like an 03 Duramax pickup does. It also starts a lot better with 8 working glow plugs and a working grid heater
All signs point to this being a good engine, which is most awesome... I just have to do some wiring / plumbing for my OBA, install a new air filter, put the shifter boot back on and re-install my license plate today. Hoping to drive it a bit this week once it warms up a bit (-30 sucks!)
This engine sounds waaaay healthier than the old one. It is an 03 vs an 02 like the old one, so I had to make some wiring changes (different main connector pinouts, different oil pressure sensor) to run the 02 PCM with the 03 engine harness but otherwise it was nearly a bolt in swap (the 03s got a new PCM, better FICM and FPR along with a lot of serial comms vs analog signaling).
The old one used to rumble a bit more at idle, but it also vibrated a lot more. The plastic inside the truck used to buzz and the transmission used to be very noisy with transmitted engine clatter. It didn't really sound quite like a Duramax at idle. This one does. It idles glass smooth, no more vibrations or buzzing plastic. The transmission is nearly silent. There is no more rumbling at idle, it sounds exactly like an 03 Duramax pickup does. It also starts a lot better with 8 working glow plugs and a working grid heater
All signs point to this being a good engine, which is most awesome... I just have to do some wiring / plumbing for my OBA, install a new air filter, put the shifter boot back on and re-install my license plate today. Hoping to drive it a bit this week once it warms up a bit (-30 sucks!)
Congrats, this thread made me suggest a mid 90's Tahoe for a DD
New engine is in
This engine sounds waaaay healthier than the old one. It is an 03 vs an 02 like the old one, so I had to make some wiring changes (different main connector pinouts, different oil pressure sensor) to run the 02 PCM with the 03 engine harness but otherwise it was nearly a bolt in swap (the 03s got a new PCM, better FICM and FPR along with a lot of serial comms vs analog signaling).
The old one used to rumble a bit more at idle, but it also vibrated a lot more. The plastic inside the truck used to buzz and the transmission used to be very noisy with transmitted engine clatter. It didn't really sound quite like a Duramax at idle. This one does. It idles glass smooth, no more vibrations or buzzing plastic. The transmission is nearly silent. There is no more rumbling at idle, it sounds exactly like an 03 Duramax pickup does. It also starts a lot better with 8 working glow plugs and a working grid heater
All signs point to this being a good engine, which is most awesome... I just have to do some wiring / plumbing for my OBA, install a new air filter, put the shifter boot back on and re-install my license plate today. Hoping to drive it a bit this week once it warms up a bit (-30 sucks!)
wait WTF are you talking about Russell?
Nicely done man!That truck is badass!
Finished up the wiring and took it out for a test drive and DANG! I shoulda done that sway bar a LOOOOONG time ago! What a phenomenal difference in handling!! The truck actually handles very much like stock now, no more leaning around corners, no more wollowing, and the steering feels much tighter with the sway bar housing acting as another crossmember up front (I had suspected that frame flex was behind a lot of my slop, I was right). I still need a few parts to finish the OBA up so I can test the disconnect and make sure that I am not going to have any clearance issues up front, but things look good so far.
That said, a couple problems have cropped up -- 1. My hood officially does not close anymore (sigh) 2. My low coolant light is stuck on. Nothing too serious, but still annoying regardless.
The hood is within 1/2" of closing properly, so I am going to cut out the insulation and will trim the hood supports as needed to make it fit for now. I'm going to be pulling the engine again this summer so I can build new mounts to drop the whole thing down 2 - 3" once I get my steering down and out of the way.
The light is probably going to be a new coolant bottle type of a deal. Truth is, it is so clouded I can't see the level through it anymore anyways.
That said, a couple problems have cropped up -- 1. My hood officially does not close anymore (sigh) 2. My low coolant light is stuck on. Nothing too serious, but still annoying regardless.
The hood is within 1/2" of closing properly, so I am going to cut out the insulation and will trim the hood supports as needed to make it fit for now. I'm going to be pulling the engine again this summer so I can build new mounts to drop the whole thing down 2 - 3" once I get my steering down and out of the way.
The light is probably going to be a new coolant bottle type of a deal. Truth is, it is so clouded I can't see the level through it anymore anyways.
Fantastic progress Russell!
Could you bleach the overflow bottle to get rid of the stains?
Could you bleach the overflow bottle to get rid of the stains?
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
Russ, I had a steel cowl on my Chevy dually with the cummins in it. The although there is a raised cowl on the skin, the structure underneath is at the stock height. I had to notch my still to clear the aftermarket intake horn.
Yup, so I have heard... More than likely I'd have to go with a fiberglass hood if I want some extra clearance.
That said, I really like the stock hood look, so I am going to go out of my way to try and avoid using one.
I'm going to take the plasma cutter to this hood and see what I can do to make it close again this coming weekend.
I also have a reoccuring glow plug module code flashing in the PCM. I'm going to swap the old one on and see if that clears it up.
Got my low coolant light problem fixed. It was actually a wire I pulled out of the connector at the overflow bottle somehow. I swapped the glow plug relay out and tested all the glow plugs / grid heater and everything seems to be working. I'm just going to re-program the PCM to ignore that particular glow plug code.
I also replaced a burnt out bulb in one of my PIAAs, did an oil change, fuel filter change, finished up my OBA, installed a T bolt in my rear tire carrier to keep it from rattling or coming loose while bouncing around (busted my rear window out this last summer cause of that) and cleaned out the interior a bit before putting my my bed and some of the gear I'll be taking down with me. I fixed my hood clearance issues with a big hammer. The hood has a bulge in it, but it was all buggered up from the pulley grinding through it last time anyways, so I am not too worried about it. I'll be putting new fenders, a new hood and some fresh paint on the truck next winter, I think.
I've been driving the truck around and so far I am really pleased with how it is handling with the new sway bar up front. I am worried I may have some issues with the ends hitting the frame, I should have made the sway bar 1" wider when I ordered it. Its been getting good mileage and is much quieter now that the trans and body have been separated a bit
Tomorrow night I'll dig out my goose and load the hoe up onto it after I load it up with tools and the rest of the stuff I'll be taking South to KOH with me on Thursday night. I'll leave the truck / trailer hooked up and loaded up so all I gotta do when I get home from work is put my 4 door hoe in the garage and hop into the pickup & go.
