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Project Penny - All good things must come to an end

So I'm confused, you're going to upgrade the LB7 in the '95 to an LBZ, then remove all the fun parts and sell it? Then take said fun parts and put them into the '93 with a lazy 350 and a slush box. I don't follow :screwy:


Close, but not quite what I'll be doing :thumb:

The plan is to take the 95's chassis and remove all the good parts from it and replace them with stock or cheaper versions of what it has now. Put the TBI 350 / slush box on it along with the body from the 93. Wheel it then sell it.

The 95 will get a new fabricated front axle. It'll be a Ruff Stuff housing fully trussed and armoured with Reid inner Cs and a Jrat Jana Sixty-9 drop out third member. It'll be fitted with 4.56 gears on either an air locker or an electric locker. It will be built to 78/79 Ford D60 widths and fitted with the Yukon 4030 shafts I have in the 95's D60 right now and upgrade to Yukon super joints. I will put the Solid Axle Industries outers that I currently have on the 95 onto the new axle to round it off and put stock stuff on the old axle under the 93

The front suspension will again be a 3 link but this time I am going to build the links to be a bunch longer and with proper geometry. I will run aluminum links with the Evolution Machine rod ends I have in Penny now. I am going to run 14" coil overs instead of the 16" I went with last time as I simply don't have the driveshaft angles or uptravel room to take full advantage of the bigger shocks. The shock towers will angle the shocks properly (top leaned in instead of out). It will be fitted with the ORO dual rate sway bar, but I am going to get new bars which are a bit wider for arm to frame clearance. I want to do a "monolith" like Greg pulled off to mount the front links to as well as the transmission / transfer case assembly with a built in skid plate.

I am going to slide the steering box forwards a couple inches to get my steering geometry right. The steering will be a proper balanced ram system flow matched from Howe vs cobbled together parts so it'll turn quickly and effortlessly even at low engine RPMs.

The rear axle will be a shaved and trussed 14 bolt full floater with factory disc brakes and either an air or electric locker. I will be installing 63" rear springs with a set of high quality internal bypass shocks. The rear will be fitted with an anti-wrap bar and a second ORO sway bar out back as well. I am going to keep the Kevlar MT/Rs and the trail ready bead locks but I want to lower the truck a couple inches this time around for a lower COG.

The drivetrain is going to be an LBZ Duramax with a proper intercooler and electric fans for the radiator which will allow me to drop the engine an inch or two to allow better hood clearance without a body lift. I'm going to run an Allison 6 speed automatic which will allow for off the shelf tuners and much more speed. The transfer case will be a 3:1 2 speed Atlas. With the 37s, 4.56 gears and .61 final overdrive I will have good streetability running 2000 rpm at 75mph with a possible 145 mph top speed just below the rev limiter. The 3:1 low range will give me all the crawling capability I could need, especially with the diesel's torque.

Ultimately, I am building a fullsize rocket ship for playing in the desert. But, I want it to have excellent street manners. It should still perform exceptionally well for our wheeling up here in AB as well with good articulation and ground clearance. If I want to go mud bogging or do extreme competition I have the buggy.

The 93 will basically be what I have right now except less high-dollar parts in it. Still a very capable wheeler. The TBI 350 should perform well with the 5.13 gears and 37 - 40" tires. Ultimately I want to roll the stuff I am unhappy with under the 93 with the eventual intent of selling it. It should drive straight, flex well and perform decently, just not to the level I want. Ultimately, it'll be my wheeler until Penny is done again. Then I'll sell it.
 
I like the idea of it to swap and sell what you want upgraded for penny.

But why wheel it. Swap and sell and get penny done faster. You have a buggy to wheel...:dunno:
 
You sir are crazy and I like you.:thumb:


I so wish I could have pulled off a duramax swap in my truck then the 6.0
 
Everyone is forgetting that Russ is Russ, and not Ben!(sorry ben) Russ did his LB7 swap from 6.5 in like 2-3 days.


I say go for it! You have a good plan that will get stuff done, and allow you to have fun in the mean time. Thats the key to building trucks is fun. Seems most people loose the "fun" when doing 3-4 year builds.

Russ you definitely have the tools and resources to make it happen. Go for it and have fun!!!
 
Ok I get the plan now. But why spend all that money on an Allison just to use off the shelf tuners? I'm sure you could come up with your own custom tunes to satisfy your craving for horsepower.
 
The off the shelf tuner is just a side benefit. I have a 400hp tune for the Tahoe but I almost never use it right now becuase it is useless offroad and is such a hassle to swap tunes into (have to reflash the PCM every time)

I love rowing my own gears but the manual transmission is holding me back now. I cannot shift it fast enough that the wheels don't stop in snow or mud and bog the engine down when I get back into it in a higher gear. This means I have to take a solid run at stuff and hold my engine at higher RPMs to climb stuff or go bogging. I just cannot get the wheel speed I want.

The auto will shift faster, even under load, and will not loose me all my boost on every shift. It also holds more power than my manual transmission does and is not going to get wrecked as easy with shock loading. I can run a considerable bit more power with the auto than the manual even from the perspective of slipping the clutch.

Another huge advantage is that extra overdrive gear at .61 vs .73 in the ZF6. That means I can run 4.56 or 4.88 gears with the 37s and still have reasonable highway engine speeds vs running a 4.10 gear set with the manual.

The auto will also be a lot quieter than the manual transmission. Normally not an issue except when I am idling the truck and trying to sleep inside of it LOL! Count in the parking pawl (I don't have a park brake at the moment) which will be a nice feature to have again.
 
I like it, except I'm still confused as to why you don't just sell penny as is for the most part, or even just part it out, and have the 93 be your fresh start? What is the main reason for doing the body swap thing?
 
The body on the 93 is starting to rust from the inside out and it has the old instrument panel in it. The 95 is easier to interface the LBZ to
 
95 Tahoe - Project Penny - Lets do some 63" spring swap planning!

No, thanks though. the nv4500 gear splits drive me nutty with a diesel. I'll find a 6 spd I just haven't been looking overly hard for one yet. It's for when I swap the cummins into my dually.
 
Probably best to go with a dodge 6 speed then. Be a bit easier to adapt than the Chevy. The bellhousing is integrated on the ZF6
 
95 Tahoe - Project Penny - Lets do some 63" spring swap planning!

the ford zf6 will be easiest for me to flange up to a cummins in a ford. Not a g56. There around I'll find one when I need to.
 
So I found this on a local classifieds site:

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and-...uck/601095152?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

That's the price for the complete truck.

One of my room mates wants the LB7 / ZF6 from Penny to put back into the truck they originally came out of and to put it back on the road.

What do you guys figure? Is the extra 65hp, 140 ftlbs and the deeper O/D 6th gear worth the money? Penny runs great as is, but I have some complaints with not being able to shift the ZF6 fast enough for some offroading situations and how the engine screams on the highway.

In other news, I tore the t-case out of Penny to send the SYE to a buddy of mine who was desperate for one for an upcoming race with his Jeep. He couldn't find one anywhere and there isn't a new production run until mid July. His race is in 2 weeks. Winds up the shift collar was coming apart inside and I had a bunch of bits and pieces fall out when I separated the case halves so I just shipped him the SYE parts to put into his NP241. I just happened to spot another SYE'd NP241 and snagged it the other day, it should be up here in a bit. It came with an 8.1L / 4l80e.

I picked up a newer disc brake 14 bolt full float rear axle for Penny a few months ago and intend to install it with a set of custom made 63" springs to eliminate the blocks and wore out 54s. She'll get new rear remote resi shocks and an anti-wrap bar as well to round it out. I aim to have this stuff done by the end of July. Isn't a really lofty goal, just a matter of clearing my garage out so Penny can go in and get finished up.

I also picked up a new 79 Ford D60 for the front to start over again. I was going to go with a drop out third 60 but decided that the added cost isn't worth it. A stock housing trussed off the get go will serve me perfectly well. Adding a new trans mount / skid plate / link mount assembly will also solve all of my driveability problems. All I need to buy for it is a set of inner Cs so I can get my pinion angle and castor angles right for once. I'll build it and swap it in during the fall.
 
I feel like we need to get supersize Shawn in here.

These two can have a battle royale of crazy mod plans.

But I'm in for the updates.
 
After a couple hours of research and reading I've decided I'm going to pass on the LMM. Ain't worth the money for what I'd get out of it.

Onwards and forwards with sitting around doing nothing on my truck for a couple more weeks haha!

Stupid night shifts :(
 
Good call on passing on the LMM. Not worth the trouble plus rowing your own gears is always more fun. If you're after more power, why not just up your tune?
 
I'm sure the swap would only take you 10 minutes, but thats 10 more minutes you could spend somewhere else. As long as you are happy with the performance of that lb7 I would keep it.
 
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