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Pro's and Con's of the NP241 transfer case.

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hawkeye649

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Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

I have a 1990 GMC F/S Jimmy with a 350TBI TH700R4/NP241 with 10 bolts front & rear.
I was just wondering if this is a "capable" off road transfer case? I've read that it has a great 1:6.4 or something like that L gear, but I just wanted to get some other reviews.
Also, how hard is it to clock up? Would I have any interfierence problems with the floor pan on a stock body/chasis height?
Just want to know a few things before I start dreaming about going with a slip yoke conversion kit (and put the splines in the DS, where they should be!). /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

I know that the np241 which is what I have like's to lose fluid quit often.
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

The 241 is a pretty good case. It is 2.72 to 1 low range. Just make sure you run a skid plate under it. Installing an SYE is easy. Not sure what you mean by putting the splines in the driveshaft.
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

mine dosent leak now after i replaced the seals, the low is lower more like 2 somthing to 1, lightweight, which is good and bad, chain drivin which alot of people dont like. but i think its ok if you dont plan on dooing anything to rough with it
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

Nothing wrong with the 241 case. Unless you have a big block and plan on getting really rowdy with it....
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

Also make sure to have a good skidplate setup. If that aluminum hits a rock or something you are finished. That aluminum is very thin cast aluminum.

An SYE kit is a good idea if you plan on offroading hard. The slip yoke is a bad design. If you jump your truck you can destroy the hole case. Don't ask me how I know please. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif

I actually hopped mine of the ground and the slipyoke wouldn't slip fast enough so the driveshaft bent the mainshaft and broke the case apart. I run a 208 but it is the same thing for the most part as a 241.

Harley
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

Ya the ratio for the NP241 is like 6.41 and the NP208 is like 6.08. It's somewhere in ck5's coffers but I'm a lazy prick.

Remember everyone...

------------------------------------------------------------

Lazy is nice, but lathargic is better. /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

Those are 2's not 6's. Heck I wish.
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

2.72 & 2.61 (41/08 respectivly)
I could have sworn I found those numbers somewhere on CK5, but I found those specs here;
http://coloradok5.com/specs.shtml
Personally I always found 4 low a great way to get stuck. Almost total assurance that I'll get one wheel on each axle to slip.
Open diffy disease strikes again! /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

I have a 241 and it has never given me any issues. It is now clocked (which took 5 minutes) and with a 1" body lift it barely touches at full clock (4.5 inches up) I am in the process of building a belly pan so I dont break the case on a rock.
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

We rarely see problems with 241s. Usually its just because customers ran them out of oil and burned them up!
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

Who makes a kit for clocking the 241? I'm already loooking at the JB Conversions Super Short SYE Kit.
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

There is no kit. You just don't return it to it's stock position, you turn it so the "lobe" is parallel with the ground, instead of pointing down at about 5 o'clock.
So you need a 1" body lift to clock it up? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

[ QUOTE ]
There is no kit. You just don't return it to it's stock position, you turn it so the "lobe" is parallel with the ground, instead of pointing down at about 5 o'clock.
So you need a 1" body lift to clock it up? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

There is a "kit" It requires a clocking ring to do it. I believe it has a few different steps you can clock it to. You don't need to body lift it if you just bash your floor up, but if not it requires 1" BL to clear at the top position. You will probably need new driveshafts or CV shafts to make it all work right. Search on this subject it was covered a lot when the "kits" came out /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

I've never done an R&R on a 1990 TH700R4 or a NP241, but I did it in an '85 (NP208) and it looked like if you just twisted it up 1 bolt hole it would work fine. When I was actually doing it, I thought about just trying it. It looks like all the bolts are spaced equally, and there would be no need for any kind of kit? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

If I have to take it apart for the SYE Kit, I Just going to clock it as well. So I'm already planning on having new shafts made.

I also have to rebuild all the body mounts, so a 1" lift isn't really that big of a deal.
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

While your in there doing the SYE you may want to look into swapping in the wider chain and sprockets out of a 241HD.
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

[ QUOTE ]
I've never done an R&R on a 1990 TH700R4 or a NP241, but I did it in an '85 (NP208) and it looked like if you just twisted it up 1 bolt hole it would work fine. When I was actually doing it, I thought about just trying it. It looks like all the bolts are spaced equally, and there would be no need for any kind of kit? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

[/ QUOTE ] the bolts are NOT spaced evenly. This becomes apparent when you try to install a clocking ring, you have to install it just right(aka line up the holes). I've installed mine a few times and realized, oh crap only like 4 of the 5 line up.
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I've never done an R&R on a 1990 TH700R4 or a NP241, but I did it in an '85 (NP208) and it looked like if you just twisted it up 1 bolt hole it would work fine. When I was actually doing it, I thought about just trying it. It looks like all the bolts are spaced equally, and there would be no need for any kind of kit? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

[/ QUOTE ] the bolts are NOT spaced evenly. This becomes apparent when you try to install a clocking ring, you have to install it just right(aka line up the holes). I've installed mine a few times and realized, oh crap only like 4 of the 5 line up.

[/ QUOTE ]

So I need a spacer kit uh? Duct tape and RTV sealant sounds like enough too me. /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif

There should be a duct tape graemlin. It is the quintessential yankee know how tool. I think it should be on the american flag. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
 
Re: Pro\'s and Con\'s of the NP241 transfer case.

I blew two of them in my Suburban before I switched to a Doubler. I never did figure out why they blew. Maybe it was the 42's?

As for a SLE, I went with the one from www.drivelinesolutions.com. If you go with their kit I can save you some money by selling you the output yoke I bought from them. Send me a pm.
 
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