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Pure Chevy Sex

I'm going to go back and edit a few things in this thread as to what and how, due to changes made during the install. Not that there were a lot, It's just less confusing if its right when people read the thread, and doesn't contradict itself.


Anyone got a complete 6 lug 3.73 99-02 Silverado axle they want to donate to finish the upgrade? :wink1:

If not, I'll be beholden to craigslist till I find one.
 
Only issue I see is there appears to be nothing centering the rotors since the lug holes appear to be slightly larger and the ID of the rotor is definately larger than the hub centering feature.
 
Based on the previous thread talking about lugs/knurl, etc., I'm guessing the bit of unthreaded portion you can see on the studs is the knurling that bites the rotor.
 
The knurling of the lugs doesn't touch the rotors, but it's close enough between the lug threading and the hole size that there is really no movement.
 
Give us a couple thousand mile update on this.

Maybe you remember differently from your search, but I seem to recall that due to the stock design, there were a few studs that were CLOSE to working, but only two that have the same design (which holds the rotor with knurling), and that doesn't leave any options for converting to metric studs in the front. If it turns out to not cause issues in your case, that might open some doors to run metric all the way around, even if not doing the swap you did.
 
Once you can convert it to disk over hub, it opens a whole world of lug stud choices. With the stock size being the 7/16, just about EVERYTHING else is bigger. I did give some serious thought to just running the H3 metric 12mm studs or possibly just go with 1/2. But it came down to if I'm going bigger anyway, why not completely change to modern lugs. The Silverado lugs gave me several things. First up is size/strength, second it's readily available, third was the end that limits accidental cross threading, and finally once I thought it through to where the rear would also go (99-06 disk rear). It would give me the 14x1.5 all the way around, strong 14mm, common lugs and nuts. I did give a thought to using some hub centric adaptor rings to perfectly center the rotors, but I had no wiggle to the rotors even when they were just sitting there. And I feel that any shifting that occurs will only help to center them as braking forces cause the rotor to shift rotationally and not laterally.
 
Sweet kit. I wonder if you could use Tahoe calipers instead. Such a better caliper design than the factory 10bolts.

Exactly how much are you into this for?
 
The H3 calipers are large 4 piston calipers, not much bigger without going aftermarket/expensive.
The price was actually pretty cheap..........
Brackets cost $50
Ebay caliper set was $120
Rotors $60 for the pair
Cost me $35 to have the hubs exterior turned down on a brake lathe.
A drill bit and some lugs/lug nuts.
Oh yeah, and a cheap 1/4 thick wheel spacer. I think it ran $15 for the pair.
 
Little update, I finally found a rear axle for a good price!!!

2004 Silverado disk brake rear axle complete with parking cables! Got it for $250 it has matching 3.73 gears. Got to order some spring pads, cut the bump stop plates off, and weld it up, once I figure out the perfect pinion angle that is.

2URpXP_zpsusitfqda.jpg


Looks like my evil plan is coming together. Half ton modern brakes and larger lugs, without major issues. All easily repaired with factory/autozone parts nation wide.
 
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Some of the details for the rear axle.

88 Burb 10 bolt 8.5inch :
42.5" spring width
64" wheel to wheel
3" axle tubes
7/16 lugs

99-2004ish Silverado axle 10 bolt 8.6inch:
49" spring width
68" wheel to wheel
3" axle tubes
14x1.5mm lugs

So, it gives me the wider rear axle without spacers. Same 6 lug pattern with the larger lugs (same as my H3 front conversion). Same basic size. Modern disk brakes with a parking brake. From my measurements so far, I can leave the stock spring pads and only remove the bump stop plates to install the new spring pads. I'll know more later about the u joint connection, but every part I'm looking up shows I don't even need to change the u joint, I can bolt it right up.
 
I forgot to add, the parking brake cables should be adaptable to the stock parking brake set-up.

Again, this conversion is a huge upgrade to the stock systems from our square bodies. But it also utilizes factory parts and replacements are available everywhere. Servicing my brakes should also be MUCH easier as both the front and rear will be brake over hub arrangements.
 
There's actually a chance with the rear. I'll check later today with my spare. I will say, in the long run you are better off going to 16 inch tires anyway.
 
I tried, a 15" is not going to fit. You should be able to do 16" easily as a bunch of trucks came stock on that axle with 16".

If you could, I'd find some 17" rims and tires. And do the brake upgrades as money/parts come available. 17" tires are everywhere and not really any more expensive than the 15" ones. The braking difference between the old single piston front and drum rear, doesn't compare to the 10 pistons and larger rotor surfaces this accomplishes. Modern brakes have come a long way since the 40's and 50's.
 
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Yeah, brakes certainly can be improved on. Just a matter of swapping out the factory wheels, which I'm partial to them.

I wonder if anyone is repro'ing the factory ralley's for the trucks in larger sizes. I know they do for more classic cars.

I would assume in the not too distant future that 15" tires of the more odd sizes (like my 33x10.5R15's) won't even be available, and that will certainly force my hand.
 
17" rims on a full size truck look pretty much stock, even on the old square bodies...........

3ztZVA0.jpg


These are the 17" rims with 265/70R17 take off tires.
 
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