What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Pzuzu The Isuzu Build (RIP)

Overview Gallery Discussion
Been a little pre-occupied parting out the chevy this week.

Yesterday I started getting some clutch chatter. Thought the worst that I was going to need a clutch. Got in the truck this morning and my clutch pedal would only return half way up. Nursed it to work and found my master empty.

Replace the clutch slave and master after work, both were leaking pretty damn bad. Turns out that what I thought was a rear main drip was the clutch slave and also found the culprit of the paint peeling off my clutch pedal.

R&R went smooth for once. Bled out super easy. Heated the clutch up a little to clean the oil off and she drives no issue again.


Also a co-worker of mine told me about a deal that eastwood is running. Im going to be the proud owner of a TIG and Plasma Cutter by the end of the month. $999 for both units, free shipping, they both work off 110 and 220. Just couldnt pass it up.
 
Not much of an update but I scored a set of early bronco radius arms for $50 to extend. Tried to get a long side shaft but none of the ones he had were for a 760x u joint like the full size stuff.
 
Started to order stuff for the SAS. After crunching some numbers I went with a late model wagoneer long side inner for shortening the dana 44. This will put me at 63.5in WMS to WMS. My stock rear is 61in and eventually I will upgrade to the widetrack 63in rear that came in trucks w/ fender flares.

I also just ordered frame and axle side panhard mounts and the frame side brackets for the radius arms.


Next week Ill order my shock mounts and the axle wedges from Mr. Ripoff Jame Duff and then comes the pricey order of $370 for the DOM, heims, creeper joints, and misc parts from trail-gear.
 
No pics tonight. Stripped down the dana 44 to a bare housing ball joints are quite loose, not shot all the way but I thinks Im gonna upgrade to the poly performance heavy duty offroad ones.

Tomorrow Im going to grind all the brackets off of it and get the long tube C knocked off. Im kinda up in the air on whether I should turn the pinion up or not while Ive already got one Cs cut off.

My new length shaft will be here wed so thursday Ill probably bring my housing to work and cut it down in the chop box.
 
Got all the brackets off the dana 44 today and ground down to fresh tubes. Started cutting the C off the passenger side. Gave up after breaking my sledge, vice, and patience. Gonna heat her up with the torch at work tomorrow.
 
Damn Stomis,

I had a '93 and never thought you could do so much cool stuff to the japanese blazer. Keep up the good fab work and dont be suprised if a little complementary idea theft happens.:whistle: Like the bumpers and roof rack. I was perusing the Garvin catalog for ideas and then along came you.:thumb:

Serirously top notch.
 
Jester1 said:
Damn Stomis,

I had a '93 and never thought you could do so much cool stuff to the japanese blazer. Keep up the good fab work and dont be suprised if a little complementary idea theft happens.:whistle: Like the bumpers and roof rack. I was perusing the Garvin catalog for ideas and then along came you.:thumb:

Serirously top notch.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliments, much appreciated.


I like this truck because no one makes anything for it. So everything is custom.
 
I think old man emu makes some things for it. Plus they are the european poor mans landrover. I think there are some aussie manufactures that make stuff for them, I forget now whom, but when I had mine I remember checking them out. Theres always google right?
 
Jester1 said:
I think old man emu makes some things for it. Plus they are the european poor mans landrover. I think there are some aussie manufactures that make stuff for them, I forget now whom, but when I had mine I remember checking them out. Theres always google right?
Click to expand...


Yeah theres a limited amount of stuff but nothing really hardcore.
 
Axle is coming along. No pictures cause the G/F hijacked the camera, Ill shoot some tomorrow.

Things I accomplished over the last few days:

Removed the C and shortened my axle tube

Stripped the housing down to bare metal

Knocked the C back on the axle. Measured the caster and balljoint "camber" angle and tacked it on the tube

Shaved the bottom lip of the pumpkin smooth and ground out a small stress crack I found in one of the webs on the pumpkin





Tomorrow Im gonna burn the C onto the axle with the big machine at work. Also gonna fix that crack up. Torch the spot weld on the pumpkin real hot to burn the oil out and then make a pass on them cause they seep oil. Also gonna weld the pumpkin to the tubes.


I received some parts the last few days other than my wagoneer length shaft. I got adjustable coil buckets from ballistics. Despite the fact that I didnt want to order anything from them they are the only company that offers a compact adjustable bucket. Plus they got here in less than a week.

Also got my frame side hangers for the radius arms and the panhard bar brackets.
 
SDC13255-1.jpg


SDC13254-1.jpg


Heres my shortened housing. New WMS to WMS surface will be 63 inches give or take 1/2 an inch. I painted it tonight cause I didnt want it to rust because I cleaned the whole thing down to nice bear metal. Still need to put the brackets and wedges on when I mock the axle under the truck.



SDC13256-1.jpg



SDC13257-1.jpg


What do you guys think is this too much toe out? :haha:

Think I might need to shorten my tie rod :)

What thread size are the steering arm studs and the steering stops? They look like 1/2 fine for the steering arm and 5/16ths fine for the stops. I was to order bolts to fill up the holes on the drivers knuckle.



My Thanksgiving 4 day weekend list of things to do is:

Shorten my Tie rod

Plate my diff cover

Torque down my balljoints

Cut my radius arms so I can blast them at work

Mock up an estimate of track bar length so I can order all my DOM.
 
Stomis said:
thread size are the steering arm studs and the steering stops? They look like 1/2 fine for the steering arm and 5/16ths fine for the stops. I was to order bolts to fill up the holes on the drivers knuckle.
Click to expand...

Studs for the steering arm are in fact 9/16" fine. Donno about the stops.

But I think that toe is just fine :haha:

-- A
 
Wow! All that clean shiny axle then you throw the rusty tie in to mess up the pic.:rolleyes:

Thats a nascar reverse setup go fast turn right?

All looks great. Makes me wish I was in the garage. But the way how often do you wang the old brainbox on that low ceiling?:doah:
 
Love this thread because your doing something I may have to do this spring. I want to build a 57 chevy truck but on a 70s frame. They make body mounts for it but I didn't like the idea of tires sticking past the fenders. Still need to find what width I want the front to be though.
 
I like the floral diff cover motif. Think you should keep it on the next one.
 
Jester1 said:
Wow! All that clean shiny axle then you throw the rusty tie in to mess up the pic.:rolleyes:

Thats a nascar reverse setup go fast turn right?

All looks great. Makes me wish I was in the garage. But the way how often do you wang the old brainbox on that low ceiling?:doah:
Click to expand...

I hit my head all the time. Im f'ing 6'5"...


O and my bench is super tall btw. I liked it at first but Im going to lower it.
 
Stomis said:
I hit my head all the time. Im f'ing 6'5"...


O and my bench is super tall btw. I liked it at first but Im going to lower it.
Click to expand...

I was wondering about both counts, figured it was a combo of low ceiling and high work surface.

I've changed the height of my welding table twice, I think, and wonder sometimes if I should make the legs adjustable or something. There are times where I'd like the workpiece at eye level, but then mostly I want it below me ... :dunno:

-- A
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom