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Quadrasteer 8.1L Suburban tow rig

2003 Suburban 2500 Quadrasteer camper towing 8.1L 6.0L swap 4L80-E
Overview Gallery Discussion
Crank, cam and lifters installed. I always take pictures of the timing chain so I don't have to lay in bed wondering if I got it right (never pictures of timing belts because I won't buy those cars, but I digress....). Some special tools seem pointless to buy when you have a protractor and cardboard.

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Please help confirm I'm not crazy. There is no gasket or sealant between the oil pump and rear main cap -metal to metal.

I've also read that some BBC oil pumps have no gasket inside the pump body. Mine did when I took it apart and the gears stuck up above the case sides, so I put a new gasket in when I assembled it. All I did to the pump was run the cover on some sandpaper and glass to get the scratches out and lightly file the top corners of the gears to remove any sharp edge. Then I packed the gears with vaseline and torqued to spec.
 
Awesome project Luke, I didn't see it before.

Blue85 said:
Here's the plan:
plus gaskets for timing cover and oil pan.

Flush the oil cooler and oil cooler lines, remove the bypass and fittings to clean, flush the engine down as much as possible with brake clean and compressed air. I already tore the 15 lifters apart, cleaned and re-assembled.
Click to expand...

What did you do for the cam replacement?

You trust the other 15 lifters?

Blue85 said:
Please help confirm I'm not crazy. There is no gasket or sealant between the oil pump and rear main cap -metal to metal.

I've also read that some BBC oil pumps have no gasket inside the pump body. Mine did when I took it apart and the gears stuck up above the case sides, so I put a new gasket in when I assembled it. All I did to the pump was run the cover on some sandpaper and glass to get the scratches out and lightly file the top corners of the gears to remove any sharp edge. Then I packed the gears with vaseline and torqued to spec.
Click to expand...

You are correct, nothing goes between the oil pump and main cap, it's just metal to metal.
 
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I bought a used stock cam off an 8.1L facebook group member who had upgraded to an aftermarket cam. I trust the other lifters because I took them all apart, cleaned and inspected and reassembled. Plus I like good used factory parts more than aftermarket parts.

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I hear you there, factory is better quality than most of the replacement stuff from the parts store. You usually have your bases covered I just know you like to go on remote trips so I wanted to ask. I think the roller lifter wheel needle bearings are what I would be concerned about most and I don't think you can dissemble that part. Did the damaged lifter still spin freely? Usually when that happens they lock up and start to get a flat spot. can't really tell in the picture?

Nice job finding the problem.
 
folkenheath said:
I hear you there, factory is better quality than most of the replacement stuff from the parts store. You usually have your bases covered I just know you like to go on remote trips so I wanted to ask. I think the roller lifter wheel needle bearings are what I would be concerned about most and I don't think you can dissemble that part. Did the damaged lifter still spin freely? Usually when that happens they lock up and start to get a flat spot. can't really tell in the picture?

Nice job finding the problem.
Click to expand...
It spun fine, but the roller is pitted all the way around. I did not attempt to disassemble the needle bearings in the roller tips because they're staked in place. Just sprayed them clean and replaced with assembly lube. Basically everything in the engine has been cleaned as much as possible with lint-free cloth, brake clean and compressed air. I know this is probably only 95% of the debris, but with a few quick oil changes it might work well long-term.
 
Nice progress Luke!
It amazes me how fragile yet resilient engines can be at the same time.
 
Yeah, like a transmission. You can beat on it for decades, then a small piece of debris takes everything out.
 
My kids Saturn threw a rod, so my efforts have been divided, but progress is progress. Engine is all bolted to frame and transmission. Fuel, spark and belts in place. Needs radiator and oil coolers before I can crank it up.

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It's an ION with 2.2L Ecotec. I think with an automatic transmission the engine could come out the top, but since this is a 5-speed, we're dropping the cradle. Swapping the new timing chains and clutch to the donor engine while it's out.
 
Sorry for the blurry picture, but that looks like about 55psi on 5W-30. Will have to let it run more than 30 seconds some other day, but starting and running means a lot of stuff is OK. Takes a while to get all the fluids back to the right levels.

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