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Question about TH350 to SM465 swap

Ne76K5

Ne76K5

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Seward, Nebraska
long time viewer first time poster here!

I have a 1976 K5 and have recently swapped my TH350 for a SM465 (mechanical clutch) . the swap went pretty smooth but I'm having trouble finding a spot for my clutch fork spring... I have headers and don't really want the spring resting on on the header.


on a side note my Blazer has a huge electrical draw.. its bad enough that if i don't start it at least Twice a week the battery is dead. I've been through all the wiring and cant seem to find any shorts.. any ideas where it could be?? :dunno: im running out of ideas!!

Thanks in advance!!
 
Sorry, no help on the swap, but on the electrical are you sure the battery is holding a charge? If you have an ammeter and know how to use it, it'd help you narrow down where the draw is coming from. First disconnect either the positive or negative terminal on the battery and connect the meter between the cable and battery to see how much current there is. Should be in the 10s of milliamp range for a 76 maybe even up to 100 milliamps depending on what accessories you have (i.e. aftermarket stereo or amplifiers). If you have a current draw larger than that then just pull one fuse at a time on your fuse panel and note which one drops the current draw. That should get you started on the right track for now. Hope that helps.
 
Where are you located in Nebraska? Do you have any pictures of your swap?

Martin
 
I live about 45 min. west of Lincoln. i don't have any pictures of the swap.. I could snap a few for you if you want.
 
Forgot to mention, but what happens if you disconnect the positive terminal on the battery for a few days? Measure the voltage on it before you disconnect and afterwards. Should read the same.
And if the PO installed a stereo system, they may have hooked it up incorrectly. Like connecting the 'keyed on' wire directly to 12v. That would mean the stereo/amp is on all the time.
 
The altenator can have defective diodes (one or more of the three in it) that can allow current to be discharged to ground with the engine and ignition off,as the large red wire on the back of it is always hot,connected directly to the battery positive thru the harness...that can sap the battery down and how fast it depends on how many diodes are bad--having one bad might also reduce the amount of charge going back IN the battery,which certainly wont help it stay up either...seeing it'll never get a full charge delivered to it..


You can check for a draw on the system as described already using a test lamp between the battery positive cable and the battery post itself (use the test lamp a bridge between the two)....if it stays lit even with everything off,and the fuses pulled,chances are its the altenator diodes,take the 10 ga. red wire off the stud on the altenator and see if the lamp goes out..if so,the diodes are faulty...

I've seen batteries go dead just from being filthy betwen the posts,though side posts dont seem to do it very often,mostly top post ones...you can actually measure with a voltmeter how much current can drain thru the case of the battery when its wet and dirty...and it can kill one in a few days or more...
 
if I disconnect the battery it holds charge. since i bought it i have installed new stereo and amp also a tach the PO had a mess under the dash so I rewired almost everything inside. correct ground, switched power, etc. it hasn't blown any fuses either.. my guess is it's obvious and I'm just missing it.
 
Gotcha. You must take the long way into Lincoln. There are quite a few of us Nebraska guys on here, including another Seward guy. I was just curious about a picture to see what you are working with for the spring. Does your clutch pedal have the super heavy spring on it?

Martin
 
the clutch pedal is fairly light. ill snap a few pictures when i get the headers bolted back up..
 
i bought a cheap test light and started unplugging things until it shut off then tracked it to the rear dome light took about 2 hours.
 
Last edited:
i figured out how to upload pictures. lol is it going to harm anything if the spring is touching the headers? or would it be better to dent my headers to allow clearance? it seems to engage and disengage fine but it worries me..
0417131358b_zps8b038bd5.jpg
0417131358_zps7a384ee2.jpg
 
I honestly wouldn't worry about the spring, but what do I know. That piece between the tcase and cable is a speedometer correction I believe, so no you don't need it.
 
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