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question.

This may sound like a stupid question but can anyone post up pictures of a kingpin D60. I will be looking at it this weekend and I want to make sure that I am looking at the right one. A comparison to the other D60 would also help. If you guys would be kind enough to do that I would appreciate it.
 
Actually, I believe it says "60 F" in the cast webbing of the center section, just outside of the lower right of the diff. cover.
 
I couldnt remember if it did or not, course I could have gone outside and looked at one but looks too cold.....lol....
 
MORE questions.

Took a look at the Dana 60 today. Guy said it was out of a 72 Chevy 1ton. Any ways it is pretty rough. So far as what I saw it needed new calibers, hubs, rotors, and both shock mounts were bent.


Also what do you think. I can get my hands on a d60 rear for free. Who would go for this instead of the 14bff? What would be the pro's and con's

Front Axle.jpg
 
thats a sweet deal there, it IS what you want! kingpins! and i like the 14bff overall more then the D60 rear. i believe the axle shafts are bigger in the 14bff, easier to work with also. but some people choose the D60 rear becasue it does have more ground clearance.
 
mud hungry said:
Took a look at the Dana 60 today. Guy said it was out of a 72 Chevy 1ton. Any ways it is pretty rough. So far as what I saw it needed new calibers, hubs, rotors, and both shock mounts were bent.


Also what do you think. I can get my hands on a d60 rear for free. Who would go for this instead of the 14bff? What would be the pro's and con's
Click to expand...

That is definately what you want. It was not originally from a 72 chevy though, that axle came in 77-91 chevy 1 ton trucks. Lots of people swap them to other vehicles though. Open knuckle means that the axle u-joints are exposed.

I would choose a 14ff over a D60 rear unless you need steeper gearing than 5.38's (14ff limited to 5.38's) the D60 will accept up to 7.17's. The D60 does have more ground clearance over a 14ff though. A detroit locker for a 14ff is realatively cheap compared to one for a D60. Axles are larger on a 14ff and more readily available rear disc stuff for the 14ff.
 
great! Thank you for the information though. That is what I need. A few other questions if you would indulge me.

1. Is there anything that I should worry about seeing how it is an open knuckle with the u-joints.

2. Where would be the best place to get the rotors, hubs, calipers and gearing for it.

3 lastly what should I be expecting for a solid rebuild in terms of cost?

I am planning on going 35's with 4:56 gearing with an Arb, and a high steer kit.
 
You just need to compare pricing for your best deals. To give you an idea of cost, i paid 750.00 for my D60 and then i rebuilt EVERYTHING, new detroit locker, 4.56 gears, install kit, rotors, calipers, wheel bearings, crossover steering, axle u-joints, king pin rebuild kits and all said and done i had spent 3500.00 and that included the original purchase price of 750.00.
 
The webbing on the housing in the picture is smaller than on my '81 Dana 60. I'm guessing the one in the picture is an older version. Some of the older versions had inner axle shafts that were a much smaller diameter. May need to include the cost of new shafts in the rebuild. Figure the old u-joints are probably worn out, rusty, etc. Get new ones in the rebuild. Replace the calipers, pads, rotors, wheel bearings, seals, king pin parts, convert outer shafts and hubs to 35 spline. Replace the ring and pinion with the gears you want. Replace dif with a locker. Replace the yoke with a 1350. Replace all the dif and pinion bearings and seals. Replace the tie rod & tie rod end. If it's a thin dif cover, you'll need to replace that too. About the only things you will reuse are the housing, the wheel hubs, and maybe the cover.
Make sure the threaded holes in the housing for the spring bolts are in good shape. If they are damaged, they are dificult to repair. Check the housing for major damage. Do your best to see if it is straight. It's hard to tell when it's all assembled. $300 for a good housing and wheel hubs is still a good buy.
It is going to cost you great sums of money to have someone else rebuild it. :eek1:
 
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