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Questions about 454 swap

So I'm not a fan of headers. The stock manifolds suck and really should be replaced but I think it's well worth it to step up the header dollar amount.

I think guys have used Chevelle headers cause they are shorter.

But I would seriously look into better headers.

Why? Cause this truck is about reliability.
Digging on everything else
 
Kay86K5 said:
That spectra 6.2 radiator is exactly what I got...but I thought it was a little cheaper from Rock Auto...can't remember off hand though
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Often RockAuto is cheaper until you figure in shipping. It usually depends on the order which ends up being the better deal in the end. Sometimes I'll order stuff with Amazon Prime because of the free shipping.
 
blazinzuk said:
So I'm not a fan of headers. The stock manifolds suck and really should be replaced but I think it's well worth it to step up the header dollar amount.

I think guys have used Chevelle headers cause they are shorter.

But I would seriously look into better headers.

Why? Cause this truck is about reliability.
Digging on everything else
Click to expand...
Honestly I'm not a huge header fan either. But I also dislike the factory flange between manifold and exhaust pipe. Always at least 1 stud ends up breaking anytime you try to take the exhaust apart. And I've never understood how the whole spring thing is supposed to work. I mean I think I understand the springs are for heat cycling but how tight should the nut be. Should the spring be smashed flat?

So I'm with you on spending some money to get good quality. I saw references to the Chevelle headers but haven't found part numbers people have been using. Some I found said Chevelle shorty headers, but I know long tube headers are better for torque.

I was also planning on springing for Percy's seal for good gaskets on the headers to cylinder heads as well as Stage 8 fasteners.

I also dislike the standard 3 bolt flanges headers use. I like the looks of the ball and flange on the Hedman headers.
 
here are the OEM SS tubular manifolds on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXHAUST-MAN...ash=item5d69032bbf:g:q5IAAOSwvg9XaH1o&vxp=mtr

They fit nice and tight to the block and being OEM I don't expect to have any leak issues
IMG_2136sm_zpsrhcp5wtd.jpg

IMG_2137sm_zpsr4mhbspq.jpg
 
I hate headers on off-road trucks, they always leak especially when it's used in mud, water and snow. I put a set of kooks on my wife's camaro with the ball and socket and they are pretty good. I like running from dual to single exhaust, it helps with torque. I have a buddy that owns an exhaust shop and he does all off-road trucks that way. My dad has a '76 suburban with a 454 and headers that run into a single pipe.
 
skunked said:
here are the OEM SS tubular manifolds on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXHAUST-MAN...ash=item5d69032bbf:g:q5IAAOSwvg9XaH1o&vxp=mtr

They fit nice and tight to the block and being OEM I don't expect to have any leak issues
IMG_2136sm_zpsrhcp5wtd.jpg

IMG_2137sm_zpsr4mhbspq.jpg
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In the description:
Factory tubular exhaustanifolds for chevy big block 454 and 502. Has provision for air injection. Some of the tubes ate intact. Please ask questions. 515-321-1530
​
I wonder what he means in the section I highlighted. I'm sure he meant "are" not "ate" but is he talking about the air injection tunes or the manifold tubes.
 
I agree with @bent72 , you can benefit from what some would call oversized in the exhaust. I believe that the elevation plays some tricks...

I have dual, mandrel bent 3 inch , with an X pipe, on my 406.. it likes it!
So I would look at what Mark suggested.
 
scott I used a Northern radiator from Summit w wind stars
Couldn't ask it to be any better
I would consider thst aluminum rad you got and have bigger inlet/outlet added by s competent shop
 
mrk5 said:
That's what I'm thinking.
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Bear in mind that if you buy pre-made merge pipes, they may be a real bear to make fit, if you are trying to keep things tucked up nicely. Trying to run two headers into a single pipe, before the t-case, and getting the pipe from the passenger side to drivers side means the merge pipe needs a good angle to accept the crossover. You can't push the merge back very far before you start having interference with the trans crossmember. And I'm not sure how you'd make that type of merge and make it look pretty. Stainless and lots of time I suppose.

Once you end up thinking about merging behind the t-case, you are darn near the hassle of just running duals. Not a fan of duals whatsoever, but if that's what you need to get the right amount of flow, then that's it.
 
The "Y" pipe isn't hard if you're NOT using long tube headers, shorty headers or manifolds make it easy.
 
nvrenuf said:
The "Y" pipe isn't hard if you're NOT using long tube headers, shorty headers or manifolds make it easy.
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Shorter definitely does make it easier, long tube headers I imagine would be near impossible.

I'd have to crawl back under mine and see how much leeway I gave myself from the crossmember, but with 2.5" pipes off each side, I had to make the merge collector angle around 45*.

Of course, I also made the y-pip removable so I could drop it without dropping the crossmember, having a joint in that location necessitated the merge collector being pushed forward a bit.
 
Here's mine. I will concede that the 4spd made it easier to work with the "Y" connector (there's also a collector type joint just behind the crossmember).

(no high end mandrel bends, real world exhaust work)

 
Unless I turned my truck upside down there is no way I'd get a pic of how mine ended up that was as clear as that lol.

My headers still dump to the rear, but they exit fairly high, so needed a 90* towards the drivers side, and rotated downward, but I suppose the ball/socket design makes that part easier.
 
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I did my exhaust with a summit racing builder kit. Nice price and all mandrel bent elbows. Just cut and weld as needed. If you go for headers I recommend wrapping them to keep from burning plug wires and to keep the starter cooler. Also get some with the thickest flange possible at the head, it will keep you from burning out gaskets so much. I believe Hedman has like a 3/8" but haven't looked in forever. Don't go cheap on headers or you will hate them. The ball flange is definitely the way to go, it's what the OE mfgs are using on a lot of connections. They should fit fine unless you run some monster primary tubes. My buddies 496 has 2 1/8" primary tubes and he had to grind about 1/2" off the frame flange on both sides. I would go all aluminum on the radiator, plastic is cheaper but asking for trouble. I just bought a Magnaflow exh for one of my work trucks. 2016 F350 with a 6.2L gasser and it's a 3.5" mandrel bent SS single system. I see no reason why a dual 2.5" to single 3" shouldn't be large enough since you aren't gonna make crazy huge horsepower. I'm a big fan of single exh, it just makes things simpler.
 
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