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Questions for buying used Engine

One piece rear main takes ones flywheel, two piece takes a different one. That’s it, everything else the same.
 
Ok so I just need to make sure I have a 1 piece rms flywheel and my current clutch will bolt up.
 
A quick update, guy said he races circle track locally, drives a tow truck for work and builds engines on the side. He said he’s got 10 engines in his garage at the moment, this one he said has a Comp cam 270, 4 bolt main.
 
World products S/R heads those are 650 ea bare at Summit. Big combustion cambers 76cc if I have the correct part number looked up. What style pistons when you scoped it. Flat 4 valve reliefs flat 2 valve relief or dish with any number of valve relief. If flat with 4 valve relief I am guessing right around 9.5 to 1 compression.
I think that comp cam 270 will be ok, what is your exhaust like ?

Whatever you do pull the pan look for shinny fine metal debris. look for cam lobes that are not the same shape as the others. Best to do on an engine stand good lighting while rotating the crank. Do not let the lifters fall out, in fact best to just leave the valve train assembled while you inspect. I am paranoid about flat lobes and bad lifters. When I see a low mileage new motor for sale in or out of a vehicle my suspicion only grows. Comp is not on the top of my quality list.

I think you did ok. At worst those head could be swapped your engine.
 
If you have better machine numbers, I can send the number back
These are fairly optimistic

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There is 4 valve reliefs, exhaust is full length headers, 1 3/4” primaries, or whatever the normal/smaller size is, with dual 2.5” pipes and flow master mufflers, no H or X pipe. Can you measure compressed head gasket thickness on the engine somewhere? He’s still looking for the flywheel, if I have to order one, he was saying I should go with the 158 tooth larger for more contact area, looks like Jegs has them with dual bolt patterns for either clutch size. Is it worth it to go light weight? Seems like cheap HP by reducing rotating mass. It’s gonna see lots of clutch activity when I’m wheeling

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Head gasket appear to be .040” thick measure at the front of block with a digital caliper, hard to be exact but I’m pretty sure that’s right
 
Added for that gasket.
First screen shot figured .010 for the piston, which is not common except on better engines
With .025

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you want the 168 flywheel . the smaller was for cars with small bell housing .

 
so there may be a part number stamped into the end of the heads I saw there is 64cc camber for the SR heads as well as the 76cc.
Exhaust should be go to go. For wheel you want the heavy flywheel. light flywheel is for spinning rpm quickly. Heavy will allow you to lug the engine. think tractor. 168 tooth for sure.
 
Looks like there is 67cc and 76cc combustion chambers. After a good hour or more of internet research it sounds like there’s no way to know for sure with dissassembling and measuring yourself, seems odd. There are some numbers stamped in front of the head, but nothing obvious

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Yeah I read it 543601 then below 08 22 001, on both heads, the passenger side has a “C” stamped in it. Haven’t been able to check the back of the heads yet. Thinking the 08 22 001 might be date of manufacture? But if it is 2001, this engine(or the heads) are a lot older then I was told
 
I was under the impression they were that old
 
67 head numbers, with a .01 deck number. So this will be the highest possible your compression could be

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