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Ram 2500 Axles

How about dumbing that down a little so the less “axle savy” of us can understand it better.

Okay, most modern day axles uses unit bearings instead of two tapered roller bearings ona spindle like those 67-72 trucks you worked on a while back.

Unit bearing
48362FD1-9C9F-48D6-B8E5-41647555698C.jpeg
See how everything is in one self contained unit.

But with a tradition spindle setup its multiple pieces
0B0C4B61-098F-4922-AF4D-B47B72DE63F8.png


Does this explain it a little more? Much simpler assembly
 
Okay, most modern day axles uses unit bearings instead of two tapered roller bearings ona spindle like those 67-72 trucks you worked on a while back.

Unit bearing
View attachment 296155
See how everything is in one self contained unit.

But with a tradition spindle setup its multiple pieces
View attachment 296156


Does this explain it a little more? Much simpler assembly


Very helpful. Thanks

How about explaining the stub shaft?

And what axles do these upgrades accommodate? What truck do I need to rob axles out of?
 
Stub shaft splines right into the unit bearing assembly and has a threaded stubby on the end and you just hammer down the ugga duggas to keep it retained into the wheel bearing.
 
Simpler in that it has fewer parts but it should also be said that while the unit bearing is replaceable, it is not serviceable. Simply pass or fail, there is no maintenance. The Dodge versions also do not have a provision for locking hubs.
 
Part of the reason I'm curious about the Ram truck axles is high pinion and they are already coil over front and rear on '13 or newer.
 
Simpler in that it has fewer parts but it should also be said that while the unit bearing is replaceable, it is not serviceable. Simply pass or fail, there is no maintenance. The Dodge versions also do not have a provision for locking hubs.
So is the transfer case the only means of locking and unlocking the front axle?
 
Yes. The t-case goes to 2wd but all the parts still spin.
 
You can convert the axle with a "free spin" kit (~$1500), this eliminates the unit bearing and converts the wheel bearing set up to a bearing on spindle like what's in your blazer now.
 
Personally I would not adapt another trucks geometry for another. In my 31 years I’ve learned it’s easier to do it right the first time then wing it and fix/modify a bunch of stuff in order for it to work. I tell my customers all the time just because it’s a long arm kit doesn’t mean the geometry of the suspension is better. They still utilize the same axle side mounts. However, Verne Simmons did use AAM axles under a Tahoe using factory mounts so it’s not that it can’t be done, I’m just a picky dude who likes getting every ounce of performance out of a setup.
 
Unit bearings are often a big drawback, in the land of rust. It's often much more involved to remove one than just zipping out 4 bolts.

Playing with tapered bearings, races, seals and lock nuts has it's definite up sides. Idiot-proof assembly just isn't one of them.
 
Unit bearings are often a big drawback, in the land of rust. It's often much more involved to remove one than just zipping out 4 bolts.

Playing with tapered bearings, races, seals and lock nuts has it's definite up sides. Idiot-proof assembly just isn't one of them.

Having grown up in the rust-belt I learned early on that anti-seize is your best friend. When I changed any suspension parts on my trucks I coat any surface that contacts something it can rust too.
 
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