desertrat67
Hawk Driver
Kick ass. Don't forget the cup holders.
CK5
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Rdn2blazer 73’ K5 build thread (random pics)
- Thread starter K5|kid
- Start date
Awesome! 
I want a set of those bad... but they are still aways down my list.
Is that some kind of Bi-Fabricator pickup line?
I want a set of those bad... but they are still aways down my list.
Is that some kind of Bi-Fabricator pickup line?
Awesome!
I want a set of those bad... but they are still aways down my list.
Is that some kind of Bi-Fabricator pickup line?
They were on sale, I could not pass them up.
K5 Jess
1/2 ton status
your cage kinda gives me a hardon! lol sorry, that thing is gnarly!! 
Rear seat tilt lockout prototype is almost done. I first made the pivot, then figured I needed a lockout of course. So I made the lockout arm with a 1.500 Delrin spud that locates in the next smaller hole in the seat bracket. I was hoping to use the existing slot in the base bracket but I was not 100% sure it would line up with the lockout arm hole. It's doesn't, no big deal.
When the seat is tilted to where the front of the seat is touching floor, the pin hole in the lockout arm is only 1/2 way exposed in the base bracket slot. This was a know possibility I was not real worried about. My fix, you can see where the corners of the lockout arm are at the edge of the base bracket, you see the circle, thats where I'm going to drill a 1/2 in hole and a push button ball lock pin will engage into. It's actually better then using the slot cause it keeps the seat about 1" off the floor. Less wear & tear on the seat. Going to drill a hole on both sides of the slot so I can use this bracket on both sides so theres no right or left bracket, it's universal.
There is a 3/4 diameter OD X 1/2 ID bushing inside the lockout arm that it pivots on. The lockout arm it .535 thick, the bushing is about .020 wider then the arm. The seat pivot needs to be tight in the in the slot in the uper most posistion. In order to do this and still have the arm pivot the bushing has to be a little wider to allow the bolt to tightet but still allow the lockout arm to pivot. Why .535? I just grapped material and started machining, no particular reason for it. I knew I didn't want to use 1/4 like the base bracket. Wanted some material thickness for a bushing and thicker material wouldn't flex.
Few changes are going to be of course a more correct length bolt, I used what I had for the pics. Actually the one on the try is the correct bolt length. I also have a thin stainless steel washer between the base bracket and lockout arm. I'm going to machine a Delrin washer the same width as the lockout arm (1.500 dia.) about .060 thick, same as the stainless washer inbetween there already. Also the 3/4 bushing is a piece of DOM steel tubing, I'm machining a stainless steel bushing up so it wont rust. Well have grade 8 washers instead of the black oxide you see in the pic. Just grabbed something to use for the pics.
What do think? Pretty simple design, I'm pretty happy with it.
When the seat is tilted to where the front of the seat is touching floor, the pin hole in the lockout arm is only 1/2 way exposed in the base bracket slot. This was a know possibility I was not real worried about. My fix, you can see where the corners of the lockout arm are at the edge of the base bracket, you see the circle, thats where I'm going to drill a 1/2 in hole and a push button ball lock pin will engage into. It's actually better then using the slot cause it keeps the seat about 1" off the floor. Less wear & tear on the seat. Going to drill a hole on both sides of the slot so I can use this bracket on both sides so theres no right or left bracket, it's universal.
There is a 3/4 diameter OD X 1/2 ID bushing inside the lockout arm that it pivots on. The lockout arm it .535 thick, the bushing is about .020 wider then the arm. The seat pivot needs to be tight in the in the slot in the uper most posistion. In order to do this and still have the arm pivot the bushing has to be a little wider to allow the bolt to tightet but still allow the lockout arm to pivot. Why .535? I just grapped material and started machining, no particular reason for it. I knew I didn't want to use 1/4 like the base bracket. Wanted some material thickness for a bushing and thicker material wouldn't flex.
Few changes are going to be of course a more correct length bolt, I used what I had for the pics. Actually the one on the try is the correct bolt length. I also have a thin stainless steel washer between the base bracket and lockout arm. I'm going to machine a Delrin washer the same width as the lockout arm (1.500 dia.) about .060 thick, same as the stainless washer inbetween there already. Also the 3/4 bushing is a piece of DOM steel tubing, I'm machining a stainless steel bushing up so it wont rust. Well have grade 8 washers instead of the black oxide you see in the pic. Just grabbed something to use for the pics.
What do think? Pretty simple design, I'm pretty happy with it.
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Pics continued. I'm also going to round the lockout arm full radius at both ends for a cleaner look. Also the base bracket will be fully radiused at the top too.
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Very nice!
I can't picture how it works exactly, but it sure looks well thought out.
Pics of it complete!
I can't picture how it works exactly, but it sure looks well thought out.
Pics of it complete!
Very nice!
I can't picture how it works exactly, but it sure looks well thought out.
Pics of it complete!
The pics on page 15 will give you an idea of how it works. Can see the seat tilted.
Finished the tilt prototype and made the changes I wanted. Added the .080 thick Delrin plastic guide spacers and the stainless steel bushing that the lockout arm pivots on. Drilled the two holes so I could use it on either side, driver side or pass side. Also bought a push button ball lock pin for a quick realease setup.
Mounted the driver side DIY tube door today. Cut off the hinge cover and added one tube on both doors. Will mount the other one tomorrow and get them rattled canned till it's time to powder coat them. Don't want them to rust up. Still need to fab up the removable window frame but kinda need the hard top back on, just not readt to do that yet. Getting material to skin the door tomorrow.
Mounted the driver side DIY tube door today. Cut off the hinge cover and added one tube on both doors. Will mount the other one tomorrow and get them rattled canned till it's time to powder coat them. Don't want them to rust up. Still need to fab up the removable window frame but kinda need the hard top back on, just not readt to do that yet. Getting material to skin the door tomorrow.
sweet so the hinges worked out for you? nice addition of the cross bar.
Yes thay did, thanks a bunch. When I get the doors powder coated I will get the hinges done too. I didn't like such a big opening in the door so I added the tube.
Looking good Robert. On the DIY tube doors why didn't you just tell Kert not to weld on the hinge skin? Was it an after thought of yours and it was too late already?
I did tell him to just tack them on so it was easy to cut off. He sells them with the doors so I wanted them, even if I didn't plan on using them. I might still cut out his logo and use that though. There his doors with my mods. Kert still gets credit for the bad ass doors.
I was more thinking just not having him weld or tack them on (but send them along with the doors) if you knew you were going to possibly remove them. A little less work for both of you that way.
Subscribed. You have inspired me and have alot of great ideas. Great Work!
K5 Jess
1/2 ton status
Having seen your truck in person, your fab skillz are crazy! That dash you made is one nice piece! 
Having seen your truck in person, your fab skillz are crazy! That dash you made is one nice piece!
Thanks Jess, Would have liked to have show you the rest of the parts I have built, Next time for sure.
Streetgliderx
1/2 ton status
i fixin to start me a cage soon man this is an awesome thread. you mind if i copy some of yours? LOL
Don't mind at all. I have a two things I would do different. See post 34. I should have fit all the tubes BEFORE I welded in the front to back stringers. The next thing would be the pic below. The angled tube from the B pillar down to the seat belt tube. I should have made that tube one piece with a single bend in it, and welded in a straight piece for the seat belts to connect to. Would have looked cleaner and been easier to fab and notch. It's still strong for sure, but I still would have liked to do it as I described. Other then that I could not be happier for my first real cage build. I think I have done a pretty good job since I have not lost a single piece of tube to a mis bend or mis notch.
