It'll cause it to pee out the front...
On a factory block there is a hole drilled and tapped 3/8-16 to hold the fuel pump rod, right below the water pump
CK5
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REALLY FORKIN TIRED OF THIS OIL LEAK.
- Thread starter SpeedlabDan
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- sbc oil leaks
On a factory block there is a hole drilled and tapped 3/8-16 to hold the fuel pump rod, right below the water pump
Kain
3/4 ton status
If too long of Bolt maybe......
Kain
3/4 ton status
Pull your valve covers and look at your drain holes in the head make sure there clear
I have my work cut out for me but I feel it's a venting issue. Just a hunch
Kain
3/4 ton status
good luck
Thanks. Unfortunately it's gettin mothballed for a month or two while I do this engine swap on the do-ley
This.... the fan will pick up the oil and coat the entire front of the motor . It will also run down the oil pan lip to the rear of the motor and look like the rear main. 2nd worst oil leak I ever had
Nope. Dry down there. Back of the block then now the front valley. It's also fanning out from the plug in the passenger valve cover. There's a lot of pressure enough to pump all the oil out in an hour
Kain
3/4 ton status
Sounds like your drains in the heads are clogged up
With what. Everything is brand new and clean including the edelbrock heads and oil
Did you leave some rags in the valley when you put the intake on? Not that I’ve ever seen that happen.....
Lol no not twice in a row and I'm seeing just as much pressure at the valley as the covers that's why I'm leaning toward it being a result of the plugged cover building pressure and now that the valley is blown it has to be resealed and I'll have to run two pcv
Factory valve covers had only a PVC valve on the drivers side one,and a oil filler cap thats not vented,and the other valve cover had a breather pipe that git its air from the air cleaner housing ,filtered by that "mustache"filter...
If you put a breather or a vented oil filler cap on the same valve cover as the PCV valve,the PVC will not be able to suck air thru the other valve cover and ventilate the crankcase,instead it will suck air in the breather on the same side its on and do little or no crankcase ventilation...and pressure could build and force out out the dipstick tube,gaskets,seals,etc..
Do you run synthetic oil in this engine ?..was it broke in with regular oil first if you did use synthetic ?..it isn't unheard of for synthetic oil to actually prevent a proper break in and seating of the rings if it was used from the start..
There isn't much to leak oil behind the engine other than the oil pressure sender,or tubing if its a mechanical gauge,the valve cover gaskets,and that pesky intake to block seal,those rubber gaskets suck,I never used anything but RTV there and threw those rubber things in the trash..the distributor has a gasket where it sits on the intake too,but the o-ring on the housing of it usually seals well enough for no oil to ever get up that far..
Dealers use a dye in the oil that glows under a black light to pinpoint where leaks originate--they pressure wash the engine and run it long enough to see where it starts oozing out of..you can do a crude version of this test using talcum powder after washing the engine and drying it off--apply the powder and run it awhile,it'll show the source easier than guessing..
If it is due to excess blow by,then its likely the rings..perhaps one or more got installed upside down,or an expander was left off an oil ring or something...my '69 GTO developed a bad case of blowby blues,I traced it to the furthest cylinder to the rear on the passenger side,after it oiling the engine compartment a month or more,a compression test showed that cylinder had only 85 lbs,the other 7 were all over 150 psi..
When I removed the head,you could see the top ring was in pieces ,that fell out when I removed the piston...I was lucky no damage was done to the cylinder wall or piston,I just slapped new rings on that one piston and put it back together,and it ran great another 2 years till I sold it..
I think what did the ring in was the fact I once put half a tank of diesel fuel in the car once,and it pinged badly until enough of it burned off so I could top it off with more gas..
If you put a breather or a vented oil filler cap on the same valve cover as the PCV valve,the PVC will not be able to suck air thru the other valve cover and ventilate the crankcase,instead it will suck air in the breather on the same side its on and do little or no crankcase ventilation...and pressure could build and force out out the dipstick tube,gaskets,seals,etc..
Do you run synthetic oil in this engine ?..was it broke in with regular oil first if you did use synthetic ?..it isn't unheard of for synthetic oil to actually prevent a proper break in and seating of the rings if it was used from the start..
There isn't much to leak oil behind the engine other than the oil pressure sender,or tubing if its a mechanical gauge,the valve cover gaskets,and that pesky intake to block seal,those rubber gaskets suck,I never used anything but RTV there and threw those rubber things in the trash..the distributor has a gasket where it sits on the intake too,but the o-ring on the housing of it usually seals well enough for no oil to ever get up that far..
Dealers use a dye in the oil that glows under a black light to pinpoint where leaks originate--they pressure wash the engine and run it long enough to see where it starts oozing out of..you can do a crude version of this test using talcum powder after washing the engine and drying it off--apply the powder and run it awhile,it'll show the source easier than guessing..
If it is due to excess blow by,then its likely the rings..perhaps one or more got installed upside down,or an expander was left off an oil ring or something...my '69 GTO developed a bad case of blowby blues,I traced it to the furthest cylinder to the rear on the passenger side,after it oiling the engine compartment a month or more,a compression test showed that cylinder had only 85 lbs,the other 7 were all over 150 psi..
When I removed the head,you could see the top ring was in pieces ,that fell out when I removed the piston...I was lucky no damage was done to the cylinder wall or piston,I just slapped new rings on that one piston and put it back together,and it ran great another 2 years till I sold it..
I think what did the ring in was the fact I once put half a tank of diesel fuel in the car once,and it pinged badly until enough of it burned off so I could top it off with more gas..
I'm still running Strait break in oil as it's only got close to 500 miles so far. I was thinking of running a pcv in both covers not a breather in the other but of course the seals are already gone. I'm almost positive the rings are installed correct but I hate the thought of pulling this engine againFactory valve covers had only a PVC valve on the drivers side one,and a oil filler cap thats not vented,and the other valve cover had a breather pipe that git its air from the air cleaner housing ,filtered by that "mustache"filter...
If you put a breather or a vented oil filler cap on the same valve cover as the PCV valve,the PVC will not be able to suck air thru the other valve cover and ventilate the crankcase,instead it will suck air in the breather on the same side its on and do little or no crankcase ventilation...and pressure could build and force out out the dipstick tube,gaskets,seals,etc..
Do you run synthetic oil in this engine ?..was it broke in with regular oil first if you did use synthetic ?..it isn't unheard of for synthetic oil to actually prevent a proper break in and seating of the rings if it was used from the start..
There isn't much to leak oil behind the engine other than the oil pressure sender,or tubing if its a mechanical gauge,the valve cover gaskets,and that pesky intake to block seal,those rubber gaskets suck,I never used anything but RTV there and threw those rubber things in the trash..the distributor has a gasket where it sits on the intake too,but the o-ring on the housing of it usually seals well enough for no oil to ever get up that far..
Dealers use a dye in the oil that glows under a black light to pinpoint where leaks originate--they pressure wash the engine and run it long enough to see where it starts oozing out of..you can do a crude version of this test using talcum powder after washing the engine and drying it off--apply the powder and run it awhile,it'll show the source easier than guessing..
If it is due to excess blow by,then its likely the rings..perhaps one or more got installed upside down,or an expander was left off an oil ring or something...my '69 GTO developed a bad case of blowby blues,I traced it to the furthest cylinder to the rear on the passenger side,after it oiling the engine compartment a month or more,a compression test showed that cylinder had only 85 lbs,the other 7 were all over 150 psi..
When I removed the head,you could see the top ring was in pieces ,that fell out when I removed the piston...I was lucky no damage was done to the cylinder wall or piston,I just slapped new rings on that one piston and put it back together,and it ran great another 2 years till I sold it..
I think what did the ring in was the fact I once put half a tank of diesel fuel in the car once,and it pinged badly until enough of it burned off so I could top it off with more gas..
Chrome rings sometimes take a long time to seat,some never do...
I remember the gas company car my dad ended up buying from work once its "due date" was reached--it was a '68 Chevelle wagon,and one of the first V8's they ever bought for their fleet,had a 307 in it..
It smoked and used oil from day one--at 30,000 miles it was bad enough to start fouling spark plugs,and leaving a cloud everywhere it went,so their fleet mechanic yanked out the engine,tore it down,found nothing "wrong",all he could think was the rings never seated..
Since everything still looked perfect,he just re-ringed it,using cast iron rings this time--the engine ran great after that,and my dad got it when it had about 80,000 miles on it--he was the only one who ever drove it too--he kept it at least 10 years and it had well over 140,000 on it when he sold it to a neighbor and he had it quite a while too..
That mechanic was one of the first guys who told us he heard of others putting some Bon-Ami cleanser down the carb with it running,to seat chrome rings in...years later several other engine builders told me they tried it and it worked ,with no harmful after effects...to me it sounds the same as putting fine sand down the carb though..
I remember the gas company car my dad ended up buying from work once its "due date" was reached--it was a '68 Chevelle wagon,and one of the first V8's they ever bought for their fleet,had a 307 in it..
It smoked and used oil from day one--at 30,000 miles it was bad enough to start fouling spark plugs,and leaving a cloud everywhere it went,so their fleet mechanic yanked out the engine,tore it down,found nothing "wrong",all he could think was the rings never seated..
Since everything still looked perfect,he just re-ringed it,using cast iron rings this time--the engine ran great after that,and my dad got it when it had about 80,000 miles on it--he was the only one who ever drove it too--he kept it at least 10 years and it had well over 140,000 on it when he sold it to a neighbor and he had it quite a while too..
That mechanic was one of the first guys who told us he heard of others putting some Bon-Ami cleanser down the carb with it running,to seat chrome rings in...years later several other engine builders told me they tried it and it worked ,with no harmful after effects...to me it sounds the same as putting fine sand down the carb though..
Don't use 2 Pcv, you need filtered air to flow into the opposite valve cover for the PCV to scavenge blow by. Normally I have seen a dirty inlet filter (blocked), cause oil consumption.
Do a compression test and or a leak down test be for you test down to reseal. You may have to go farther than just the intake to find the issue.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
You have to have a pvc in one side and a breather tube on the other side. Otherwise the engine has no way to circulate the air in the crankcase. Sounds like you have too much pressure in the crankcase either way. Do a compression test or a cylinder leak down test. Then you will know if you need to rip it apart again.
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that's the plan I think at this point, seems I may be having a problem with the Molly rings. I'll put a breather back on the other side once I re seal the valley again.
