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Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier

454k5blazer

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Wondering if anyone knows where to find a blue print to fabricate a rear bumper with a tire carrier and with a tow hitch. Have any of you made one yourself? Is there any cheap ones out there?
 

rampage

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Wondering if anyone knows where to find a blue print to fabricate a rear bumper with a tire carrier and with a tow hitch. Have any of you made one yourself? Is there any cheap ones out there?

Not that I have or know where to find a blueprint, but do you want a swing out or fold down tire carrier?
 

454k5blazer

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Not that I have or know where to find a blueprint, but do you want a swing out or fold down tire carrier?

Honestly not too much of a preference. Possibly a swing out so i could fab a cooler carrier next to it.
 

ZooMad75

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I like mine. Think of how often you want to get inside the back of your truck before you choose swing down or out. If you need to get back there fairly frequently, don't do a swing down. That is unless you are a cross-fit junkie and like lifting heavy tires all the time. I'm not and over the year I had mine swing down it got old real quick. Plus I forgot it was down once and pulled out of the driveway. You'll only do that once for sure.

Swingout style is the way to go for mine. Easy access. The tire once unlatched swings with little to no effort. Mine can be locked open also with the lockout hub so I can be parked on a less than level surface and the arm won't fall shut or bounce off the side of the truck the other way.

Using a 10 bolt front spindle/hub/stub shaft and lockout requires a little more work to shave the hub down and prep to weld the parts together but the size difference of the spindle and bearings over the typical trailer spindle stuff the online fab supply shops sell is dramatic. Double the size is not exaggerating. Plus in a pinch if I kill a bearing or lockout on my front diff I got spares.
 

mechted

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Proto-typing with 3/16 foam core board: 20160730_111753.jpg

Final product:
20160817_173131.jpg

Pretty sure the main structure was a 3" x 8" x 3/16" rectangle tube. The hitch is only on there for utility, not intended to ever be used for trailer or winching. Used RuffStuff bumper fabrication kit and D-ring mounts. https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2126.html

A couple of builds I used for inspiration:
PWagon: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/project-p-dub-1986-k5-blazer-modifications-and-upgrades.317811/
ashman: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/72-k5-old-yeller-suspension-upgrade-time.287152/page-44#post-3636866
muddysub: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/the-restoration-modification-of-daisy.287329/page-104
 
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rampage

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Proto-typing with 3/16 foam core board: View attachment 329752

Final product:
View attachment 329753

Pretty sure the main structure was a 3" x 8" x 3/16" rectangle tube. The hitch is only on there for utility, not intended to ever be used for trailer or winching. Used RuffStuff bumper fabrication kit and D-ring mounts. https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2126.html

A couple of builds I used for inspiration:
PWagon: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/project-p-dub-1986-k5-blazer-modifications-and-upgrades.317811/
ashman: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/72-k5-old-yeller-suspension-upgrade-time.287152/page-44#post-3636866
muddysub: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/the-restoration-modification-of-daisy.287329/page-104

Any reason why the pivot point isn’t a double shear for added strength?
 

mechted

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Didnt feel the need. The pivot usually sees a downward load, with a smaller moment from the tire hanging off to the rear. Far end of the swing arm is supported on the bumper at the latch. The pin of the pivot goes all the way to the bottom plate of the angle section, and its welded there too. From my research/design phase: lots of people use this style mount on 37 ish tires without issues. I now have 37" MTRs on reinforced H1 wheels... so my spare is stupid heavy, I used an engine hoist to get it mounted on the bumper.

Max load on the pivot is when the arm is swung rearward, and the vehicle isnt moving then (hopefully). I can move the back end of the truck up/down 1/2" by hand with the arm swung out... still feels solid. If it becomes an issue, cut it up and rebuild it.

I think Ashman's bumper did use a double shear pivot.
 
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454k5blazer

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I like mine. Think of how often you want to get inside the back of your truck before you choose swing down or out. If you need to get back there fairly frequently, don't do a swing down. That is unless you are a cross-fit junkie and like lifting heavy tires all the time. I'm not and over the year I had mine swing down it got old real quick. Plus I forgot it was down once and pulled out of the driveway. You'll only do that once for sure.

Swingout style is the way to go for mine. Easy access. The tire once unlatched swings with little to no effort. Mine can be locked open also with the lockout hub so I can be parked on a less than level surface and the arm won't fall shut or bounce off the side of the truck the other way.

Using a 10 bolt front spindle/hub/stub shaft and lockout requires a little more work to shave the hub down and prep to weld the parts together but the size difference of the spindle and bearings over the typical trailer spindle stuff the online fab supply shops sell is dramatic. Double the size is not exaggerating. Plus in a pinch if I kill a bearing or lockout on my front diff I got spares.
Do you have a link to your bumper or a build thread for it?
 

rampage

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Didnt feel the need. The pivot usually sees a downward load, with a smaller moment from the tire hanging off to the rear. Far end of the swing arm is supported on the bumper at the latch. The pin of the pivot goes all the way to the bottom plate of the angle section, and its welded there too. From my research/design phase: lots of people use this style mount on 37 ish tires without issues. I now have 37" MTRs on reinforced H1 wheels... so my spare is stupid heavy, I used an engine hoist to get it mounted on the bumper.

Max load on the pivot is when the arm is swung rearward, and the vehicle isnt moving then (hopefully). I can move the back end of the truck up/down 1/2" by hand with the arm swung out... still feels solid. If it becomes an issue, cut it up and rebuild it.

I think Ashman's bumper did use a double shear pivot.

The issue isn’t when it’s static, it’s the constant wiggling back and forth with every bump you hit going down the road. There have been instances (on other sites) when that design has broke off going down the road due to the constant vibration. I can dig up some ‘for instances’ if you’d like. Again, just a heads up to keep an eye on it.
 

ZooMad75

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Do you have a link to your bumper or a build thread for it?
Bent linked to mine above but here's the link into my build where the bumper starts. Bumper build


The issue isn’t when it’s static, it’s the constant wiggling back and forth with every bump you hit going down the road. There have been instances (on other sites) when that design has broke off going down the road due to the constant vibration. I can dig up some ‘for instances’ if you’d like. Again, just a heads up to keep an eye on it.
I've seen the failures too. One of the sites that sell spindles for swing outs listed a reason why most fail. It's not the spindle being is single or double sheer either. It's the lack of support on the other end of the arm when it's in the "closed" position. If your arm is not supported at the free end when it's closed then every bit of the weight of the spare and arm itself is on that spindle. As the arm shakes over bumps and irregularities it fatigues the spindle and it breaks. When mine is locked closed the latch pulls the arm down to a support block we added to the top of the bumper. When it's locked the arm is fully supported on the free end. The arm can't shake independently from the bumper at that point. Add a spindle that is much larger than most kits and matching bearings with support built into the bottom of the bumper structure and you have a very strong combination.
 
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