What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Rear disc brake conversion Blazer

Chris Ziemer

Chris Ziemer

Daily Driver
 Premium
Joined
Jun 8, 2022
Posts
175
Reaction score
145
Location
Galt CA
Does anybody have any experience with converting Blazer 10 bolt drum brakes to disc brakes? Is that a thing?
Would really like to do it to my daily driver for stopping power and what not.

Thinking maybe they could shoot me off to the right, twice as fast :).

Thanks
 
Appreciate that. In this case, I already have a bunch of money in this one for re-gearing, shims, etc… would’ve been a good idea to start with.

My rear wheels lock up pretty easily.
 
Chris Ziemer said:
Appreciate that. In this case, I already have a bunch of money in this one for re-gearing, shims, etc… would’ve been a good idea to start with.

My rear wheels lock up pretty easily.
Click to expand...
sounds like the brake equalizer vale went bad . its mounted on the frame crossmember by the front of the engine across from the steering box .

i ditch them and do just a tee to the front and add an adjustable inline to the rear and go for a few test drives to dial in and good to go .
 
sweetk30 said:
sounds like the brake equalizer vale went bad . its mounted on the frame crossmember by the front of the engine across from the steering box .

i ditch them and do just a tee to the front and add an adjustable inline to the rear and go for a few test drives to dial in and good to go .
Click to expand...
Thanks Sweetk30! Wish I had the confidence to tackle something like that… pretty noobish.
 
Word to the wise is do research on a disc brake conversion before jumping in. There are many threads to read here. Many here have gone through multiple master cylinders and proportioning valves trying to find the right front/rear bias, without too much pedal travel. You also need a plan for parking brake (or living without it, if legal in your area), keeping in mind that results with parking brake calipers vary wildly. So the whole kit, maybe new MC, prop valve, you're getting close to $1k to keep your 10-bolt. Make sure you know the applications for the rotors, pads and calipers for when they need replacement.

There's always the option to fix the drum setup. It's all pretty simple stuff. Ultimately, it's up to what will make you happy.

Also, as said, there's the option of a late(r) model axle that comes with discs, reliable parking brake, etc. Depending on the application, there may be some fabrication to install. You may or may not have to live with metric wheel studs in that axle.
 
I
JoshHefnerX said:
When going from drum to disk the drums had a residual valve in the equalizer/combo valve. If you can get it off clean, you can gut that out of it.
Click to expand...

I thought the residual valve was in the master cylinder, hence one reason for the (usually, not always) change in master cylinders between disk/disk and disk/drum setups within the same model of vehicle?
 
I would swap the valve first, before spending the coin on the conversion. They worked from the factory, so something is wrong in your system.

When I went disk/disk, I installed a manual proportioning valve. Because that is what we did in the hot rod world. Stock master cylinder.
 
Man, I don’t know where I could get this kind of advice and breadth of experience anywhere in the world. I sure appreciate everyone here and the forum.
And I know there’s guys reading, not commenting, but nodding their heads saying yup, that’s true.

So, I appreciate the fact that this is not necessarily a simple swap. I thought it would be. A couple of you mentioned the amount of money I have/would have in this 10 bolt. You know, if I spent $1000 on a disc kit and another $600 to put it in. I’d have over three grand into gears and brakes in this 10 bolt. Not even including the initial rebuild costs. So having that kind of money in this axle kind of makes my heart hurt. Especially if I had problems!
I’ve only threatened to set it on fire once, but that could push me over the edge .

New plan. Part A; I’m taking it to my mechanic to have them check the proportioning valve and, well really the whole brake system. Couple of you had mentioned that it should work the way it is and I agree. Part B of the new plan is to find a reasonably priced 14 bolt with discs.

I did put in a Dana 44 w/elocker front axle a couple of weeks ago, based on your advice. Rather than rebuilding that 10 bolt and going down the same path. I should’ve listened to you guys on this rear 10 bolt a long time ago. Thanks again to you all.

Gold plating the Blazer, $1000 at a time.
 
I swapped to rear discs on a 14BFF because I talked myself into the fact that the swap was cheaper than buying new drums, shoes and hardware. (mine was missing everything when I got it)

If I had a drum setup already I think Id just fix what I had
 
Chris Ziemer said:
Man, I don’t know where I could get this kind of advice and breadth of experience anywhere in the world. I sure appreciate everyone here and the forum.
And I know there’s guys reading, not commenting, but nodding their heads saying yup, that’s true.

So, I appreciate the fact that this is not necessarily a simple swap. I thought it would be. A couple of you mentioned the amount of money I have/would have in this 10 bolt. You know, if I spent $1000 on a disc kit and another $600 to put it in. I’d have over three grand into gears and brakes in this 10 bolt. Not even including the initial rebuild costs. So having that kind of money in this axle kind of makes my heart hurt. Especially if I had problems!
I’ve only threatened to set it on fire once, but that could push me over the edge .

New plan. Part A; I’m taking it to my mechanic to have them check the proportioning valve and, well really the whole brake system. Couple of you had mentioned that it should work the way it is and I agree. Part B of the new plan is to find a reasonably priced 14 bolt with discs.

I did put in a Dana 44 w/elocker front axle a couple of weeks ago, based on your advice. Rather than rebuilding that 10 bolt and going down the same path. I should’ve listened to you guys on this rear 10 bolt a long time ago. Thanks again to you all.

Gold plating the Blazer, $1000 at a time.
Click to expand...
well the good news is when you put a 14 bolt in the rear (if 8 lug) you dont have to replace the whole front axle just swap the outers to 8 lug. No need to rebuild a new front end unless your going with a dana 60.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom