You're crazy man...why the heck go through the work of a tc drop when he can just get his DS lengthened a little bit which will push that tailshaft back in?iwaxmyjimmy said:
CK5
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Rear Driveshaft... how far is too far?
- Thread starter Vetteman61
- Start date
Hey Avery, what happens if you lessin the angle of the yoke-driveshaft? Answer, the yoke will be pushed into housing of the t-case further, because the axle is in a fixed position. And with 4 inches of lift a longer driveshaft is not needed. All you do to lower the tcase is remove the factory mounting bolts and bushling under it and use the spacers in provided in the kit. As simple as using a floor jack and a 4x4 post thats approx. 12" long (laying on its side of course).
Hmmm so whats the cost of lengthening the d-shaft vs. a tc drop kit?
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
I would not pay for a tcase drop kit just go buy some 1X1 square conduit and drill 4 holes in it and bolt it inbetween the crossmember and the frame with new grade 8 hardware. I would say time and materials would be $30.Avery4jc said:
A lot of people say to use the spacers that are ontop of the bolts on the frame but I would not recommend that as it will have a tendancy to act like a punch as the frame moves offroad and the small surface area could cause frame damage.
Ira
Avery think of it this way, retubing a drive shaft would cost alot in labor and labor rates are anywhere between $50-$80 per hour. How long would it take u to cut a piece of tubing to length, weld yokes on both ends (most the time are aluminum), and balance it?
Enough said.
Enough said.
sandawgk5 said:
Ok so you drop the tc 1" lower...what happens to the tranny and engine? They are going to have to flex down with it...
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
Avery4jc said:
They pivot in the motor mounts. It only changes maybe 1 or 2 degrees.
If you buy a Tcase drop kit that is the only thing they give you so I do not see the point in paying someone a lot more than what I could do it for for the same thing. I am really curious how far out his shaft is in my K5 I have almost 6" inside the case
. I personally do not like droping the Tcase as it increases the angle on the front shaft. I did no driveline mods to my truck when I did the 4" flip in the rear and a 4" spring in the front.
Ira
Avery4jc said:
the engine mounts accomodate it just fine. the problem arises where the angle gets worse on the front shaft. lengthening the rear shaft is the way to go but can easily cost $100 depending on who does it.
G
goldwing2000
Guest
Around here, it costs $85 to cut, reweld and balance a driveshaft.
And that's to shorten it.
If you have to lengthen it, there's more cutting, more welding and the additional cost of the tube. Probably about double the cost.
And that's to shorten it.
If you have to lengthen it, there's more cutting, more welding and the additional cost of the tube. Probably about double the cost.
G
goldwing2000
Guest
sandawgk5 said:
I don't like that idea for the simple fact that a hollow piece of square tube isn't going to be very strong. I'd be more worries about frame flex crushing that square tube than the stock spacers punching through.
If anything, I'd go one of two ways:
1. (cheap) Use the factory spacers and just put some heavy washers between the frame, spacers and x-member.
2. (strong) Use square tube as Ira said but drill the holes big enough to slide the factory spacers through and then weld them into the tube. This will get you the added surface area of the square tube and still retain the compression strength of the stock spacers.
On another note... why the hell are those stock "spacers" on there in the first place?? In factory configuration, they don't do anything but necessitate longer bolts, as far as I can tell.
supposedly they are there so that you can properly torque the bolts.
the t-case drop kit that came with my lift was 6 flat pieces of steel. 3 per side so that you could drop it anywhere between 3/8", 3/4", or 1-1/8". I used them all at first. then after wheeling it I realized the effect it was having on my front shaft. took them out and haven't had a problem since. If someone wants them let me know. probably be just as easy to have someone make them. it's just flat steel with a couple of holes in it.
the t-case drop kit that came with my lift was 6 flat pieces of steel. 3 per side so that you could drop it anywhere between 3/8", 3/4", or 1-1/8". I used them all at first. then after wheeling it I realized the effect it was having on my front shaft. took them out and haven't had a problem since. If someone wants them let me know. probably be just as easy to have someone make them. it's just flat steel with a couple of holes in it.
Vetteman61
Registered Member
Pictures of my Driveshaft related to the question.
These are pictures of my front and rear drive shaft. Is the rear drive shaft safe or practical? Should I lengthen it? I believe the front is ok, but I'm not certain. This is after the 4" in lift, springs in front, blocks in rear.
These are pictures of my front and rear drive shaft. Is the rear drive shaft safe or practical? Should I lengthen it? I believe the front is ok, but I'm not certain. This is after the 4" in lift, springs in front, blocks in rear.
Vetteman61
Registered Member
rear drive shaft
apparently my rear drive shaft picture, (the most important one) didn't show up. here it is.
apparently my rear drive shaft picture, (the most important one) didn't show up. here it is.
Looks like the tailshaft was out before the lift too...look at where its rusted and where its still smooth...
Vetteman61
Registered Member
driveshaft
these pictures were taken Friday, after the lift.
these pictures were taken Friday, after the lift.
No I know but what I was saying is look at the tailshaft....the front is rusted (where it's been exposed for a while) and the front part (part going into the tc) is not rusted (recently exposed) so what I was saying is it looks like your 4" lift only pulled it out a couple inches...not all the way (don't know why it was pulled out before).
Vetteman61
Registered Member
tailshaft mcgee
Ahh, I see what you're saying. I have no idea why, I'm mostly just concerned with wheather the tailshaft being out this far is safe or durable, and the front shaft as well.
Ahh, I see what you're saying. I have no idea why, I'm mostly just concerned with wheather the tailshaft being out this far is safe or durable, and the front shaft as well.
Avery, heres a little explaination. If the slip yoke was all the way in the t-case and the suspension bottemed out what would happen? Doesnt the driveline shorten itself as the suspension compress, and it lengthens as it expands? Thats why there is some of the slipyoke showing rust and some not showing rust.
thanks! want a cookie?
My tailshaft has been out that far for over a year and I've never had a problem...I'd say when you have the funds get a tc drop or lengthen the shaft like everyone else said before.
My tailshaft has been out that far for over a year and I've never had a problem...I'd say when you have the funds get a tc drop or lengthen the shaft like everyone else said before.
Thats the attitude you show when someone explains something to you, and in return they don't care to help you anymore.
