I can't tell for sure, is that a weld, or some sort of epoxy?
CK5
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Rear main leak, possibly?
- Thread starter TJ1978
- Start date
It’s a weld I think, it’s hard like metal.
I would make sure that all holes are plugged with rags or whatever before doing any grinding. Don't want that grit getting into the oil supply.
Also, some of that does not look like it is stuck all that well. Before grinding, you might try chipping the edge of it Gently with a small chisel or screwdriver and see if it will flake off.
If that is a crack, and it sure looks like one, you might have to get a little more creative.
I have had good luck over the years with brazing cast iron. But, in this case, I am thinking use the little cutter wheel of the Dremel, to slightly enlarge the crack, using the wheel at an angle to "undercut" the sides to give an anchor point.
Then, force some Great Stuff into the crack making sure to completely fill it.
Then, either smooth it down when soft, or let it harden and grind it smooth.
Lord knows, as hard as that stuff is get off, it should handle the heat and oil just fine.
Also, some of that does not look like it is stuck all that well. Before grinding, you might try chipping the edge of it Gently with a small chisel or screwdriver and see if it will flake off.
If that is a crack, and it sure looks like one, you might have to get a little more creative.
I have had good luck over the years with brazing cast iron. But, in this case, I am thinking use the little cutter wheel of the Dremel, to slightly enlarge the crack, using the wheel at an angle to "undercut" the sides to give an anchor point.
Then, force some Great Stuff into the crack making sure to completely fill it.
Then, either smooth it down when soft, or let it harden and grind it smooth.
Lord knows, as hard as that stuff is get off, it should handle the heat and oil just fine.
Smooth out the seal surface, as best as can.
Hit the weld above with aerosol electronic cleaner, then force some 2 part epoxy in that crack. Let cure 24 hours, then clean up. Keep the passage from oil pump clean and unobstructed.
Hit the weld above with aerosol electronic cleaner, then force some 2 part epoxy in that crack. Let cure 24 hours, then clean up. Keep the passage from oil pump clean and unobstructed.
Arg! that hole right above is an oil galley isn’t it, as well as the pump opening ...agh!!!!!!
Wtf can I use to plug it? Like a rubber glove, tape, luck?
Hmm... man, this is pretty shitty.
Yeah it is the feed from pump to filter.
Wade up a paper towel and poke it in hole. This will keep it clean enough.
Wade up a paper towel and poke it in hole. This will keep it clean enough.
Welp, I’m going to try tomorrow.
If I fail, I guess I’ll need a new engine. Son of bish, what a drag 300 miles on this “rebuild” and it’s close to being a complete waste of money.
Here’s a better picture
If I fail, I guess I’ll need a new engine. Son of bish, what a drag 300 miles on this “rebuild” and it’s close to being a complete waste of money.
Here’s a better picture
If dressing and the epoxy, doesn't do it. The next is remote filter.
You can get a more permanent seal. That would only need to be undone for major repairs.
You can get a more permanent seal. That would only need to be undone for major repairs.
The last and most work. Put all your parts in a prepared block.
Meh, that's inside the oil gasket. Worry about that flat surface
It almost looks like lead or solder,not braze or a weld,and I cant see a crack,just a small"chip" missing on the inside portion..but my eyes aren't that great either..
I think it'll live once you get a flat even smooth sealing surface for the oil filter gasket..
If the leak comes from further up,the only other sources besides what you listed is the galley plugs around the cam shaft freeze plug and the one partly hidden by the cylinder head..
I think it'll live once you get a flat even smooth sealing surface for the oil filter gasket..
If the leak comes from further up,the only other sources besides what you listed is the galley plugs around the cam shaft freeze plug and the one partly hidden by the cylinder head..
Not so sure that crack doesn't make it to the edge. But by all means give it ago.
I think the engine can be saved. The remote oil filter setup is not all that much work, and has several advantages. I'm sure that the leak can be stopped by using Great Stuff on the remote adapter.
It should not have to come off for years if ever.
You could even go with a bypass filter system. I really like the idea of those due to the microfiltering of the oil.
It should not have to come off for years if ever.
You could even go with a bypass filter system. I really like the idea of those due to the microfiltering of the oil.
I'd try a small pick or VERY carefully a small, sharp chisel to try and get under the edge of some of that roughness ONLY on the filter sealing surface. Some of it almost looks like weld splatter, and may just come off. I'd be very careful on the sealing surface around where it looks like it's weld built up from the oil galley. If that wasn't prepped well, that weld may not hold if you get too aggressive with picking/LIGHT chiseling.
Remote oil filter certainly isn't a bad idea in my book. But I'm stubborn. I'd still go with a small sanding block and see how easy it is to ensure the surface is smooth. If I could get it smooth, I'd see if that looked to be sealable, or if the weld is going to continue to leak. At that point either something like a washer RTV'd to the block surface (no idea where you'd find something that size though) or the remote oil filter adapter. Which is likely the easier option.
Under no circumstances would I use a dremel unless it was to use the wire bits to try and clean it up so you can see, but IME that small wire won't do nearly enough on real material like cast iron or steel. It's just too fine and soft. With the grinding bits, you are talking about a round piece that cuts into material in a crescent shape, not flat. Good for removing material, not good for keeping a surface flat.
I wouldn't scrap the engine if that is the only issue. But the more I think about it, if it was cracked, whats to keep it from spreading as the engine is put under load?
Have you contacted the shop/builder (get it in email) to express your worries?
Remote oil filter certainly isn't a bad idea in my book. But I'm stubborn. I'd still go with a small sanding block and see how easy it is to ensure the surface is smooth. If I could get it smooth, I'd see if that looked to be sealable, or if the weld is going to continue to leak. At that point either something like a washer RTV'd to the block surface (no idea where you'd find something that size though) or the remote oil filter adapter. Which is likely the easier option.
Under no circumstances would I use a dremel unless it was to use the wire bits to try and clean it up so you can see, but IME that small wire won't do nearly enough on real material like cast iron or steel. It's just too fine and soft. With the grinding bits, you are talking about a round piece that cuts into material in a crescent shape, not flat. Good for removing material, not good for keeping a surface flat.
I wouldn't scrap the engine if that is the only issue. But the more I think about it, if it was cracked, whats to keep it from spreading as the engine is put under load?
Have you contacted the shop/builder (get it in email) to express your worries?
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Builder replied on Monday with one sentence “give me the block number”
I sent him a picture and have heard nothing. I sent another email his morning.
Im going to homedepot for a block and will just try to be very meticulous in each pass win it. Trying to remove the burrs and high-points. My biggest fear is that in what I attempt to do, that glob may just fall out completely.
I sent him a picture and have heard nothing. I sent another email his morning.
Im going to homedepot for a block and will just try to be very meticulous in each pass win it. Trying to remove the burrs and high-points. My biggest fear is that in what I attempt to do, that glob may just fall out completely.
The more I drive the more the leak increases, hopefully a peak can be reached.
I'd get creative for a sanding block. Only ones I ever had to use were big and clunky, no way it would fit well in there.
I've used smaller wood blocks, with the sandpaper thumb tacked to it, but stapled would work too.
I've used smaller wood blocks, with the sandpaper thumb tacked to it, but stapled would work too.
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Ok, it’s smooher and the burrs are gone-ish
On the main part there is a slight “raised” feel but no where near what it was. I hope if it’s filed down enough.
The angle and the position of my body needed I couldn’t get comfortably to use a dremel.
I went super slow with the lightest of pressure
Win 80 stone. I cut a corner off and used that. Cleaned with some brake clean.
I may go back for another few passes and clean again and give it a shot.
On the main part there is a slight “raised” feel but no where near what it was. I hope if it’s filed down enough.
The angle and the position of my body needed I couldn’t get comfortably to use a dremel.
I went super slow with the lightest of pressure
Win 80 stone. I cut a corner off and used that. Cleaned with some brake clean.
I may go back for another few passes and clean again and give it a shot.
I would go over it some more.
One more went over some more
It’s smooth but I wouldn’t say razor straight. It feels smooth to my finger..
It’s smooth but I wouldn’t say razor straight. It feels smooth to my finger..
