What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Rebuilding a rusty D60

cuervo

cuervo

Runn'n down a dream!
 Premium
Joined
Jan 2, 2004
Posts
3,800
Reaction score
992
Location
Sweet Home Alabama!
I'm finally getting around to rebuilding my D60. It's overkill for my sub but I needed to re-gear badly to pull my boat and didn't want to waste the money re-gearing a SF and 10bolt.

This is out of a 86 M1008 so I need to know what truck I can tell the parts dude I need parts for.

I'm gonna need disc, calipers, seals and probably bearings for as long as it sat. The truck had 28k on it when it was disassembled. :woot:

Who's got the best prices on the calipers and disc? :confused:
 
OK, tearing it down now.

There are two nuts under the part time hub. I went to napa and pick up a 4 prong socket that fit the outer nut but they didn't have one for the inner nut.

Someone have a link to the socket for this?
 
Should be the same type of 4 prong nut. FYI, there is a washer between - use a pick or snap ring pliers to easily remove it.

The inner nut will have a pin that the washer fits on so watch for it. As you see it come apart this will make sense.

Edit: washer, not gasket. Stupid predictive text.
 
nvrenuf said:
Should be the same type of 4 prong nut. FYI, there is a washer between - use a pick or snap ring pliers to easily remove it.

The inner nut will have a pin that the washer fits on so watch for it. As you see it come apart this will make sense.

Edit: washer, not gasket. Stupid predictive text.
Click to expand...


Thanks, that's it. Just a dang washer and another nut like the first one.
 
Last edited:
cool glad it helps, also my 60 sat for a while and was rusty inside the tubes, I had it cleaned out real good, and put new inner seals in it....which must be done from inside the diff...something to think about now!

good luck.
 
76zimmer said:
cool glad it helps, also my 60 sat for a while and was rusty inside the tubes, I had it cleaned out real good, and put new inner seals in it....which must be done from inside the diff...something to think about now!

good luck.
Click to expand...

I'll check the tubes when I get the rest of the axle torn down tomorrow.
 
76zimmer said:
cool glad it helps, also my 60 sat for a while and was rusty inside the tubes, I had it cleaned out real good, and put new inner seals in it....which must be done from inside the diff...something to think about now!

good luck.
Click to expand...

How did you clean out the inner tubes? :confused:
 
I actually had the axle rebuilt, and they did it while it was there, and I believed they used some kind of bore brush.
 
76zimmer said:
I actually had the axle rebuilt, and they did it while it was there, and I believed they used some kind of bore brush.
Click to expand...


Yeah, I'm thinking about a round wire brush on a long hose on the end of a drill to clean it out. I'm doing the rebuild myself. I have nothing but time.

The damn carrier is in there tighter then a nun's twat!! :eek1:
 
cuervo said:
Yeah, I'm thinking about a round wire brush on a long hose on the end of a drill to clean it out. I'm doing the rebuild myself. I have nothing but time.

The damn carrier is in there tighter then a nun's twat!! :eek1:
Click to expand...

Welcome to the Dana carrier world.:whistle:
They used a spreader on mine I know. He replaced all the bearings, and the inner seals while it was out, and added the lockright also. The main reason I took it to an axle/drivetrain shop was the kingpin was so bad I took it out by hand...I mean it was wobbling in the threads:

HPIM1635.jpg


HPIM1637.jpg


HPIM1638.jpg
 
jt512 said:
As far as cleaning the inner tube, I found a scotch brite "ball" at harbor freight, it was 1/4" drive, so a few extensions taped together spun with a beefy drill did a nice job on mine.

Here's a link http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=Scuff+ball

I hear you on the carriers, mine was a bi-otch to get out :D
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link on the "balls" I'll order a pair right now!! :haha:

Yeah, I was pulling this thing apart and thinking I could have ran it as is!

rust.jpg
 
cuervo said:
Thanks for the link on the "balls" I'll order a pair right now!! :haha:

Yeah, I was pulling this thing apart and thinking I could have ran it as is!

rust.jpg
Click to expand...

:eek1::eek1::eek1: I don't feel bad now, mine wasn't quite that bad, close, but not quite.

I started with an axle that was maybe worth 700 bucks, I piece mealed out all the parts getting everything as inexpensively as possible. I'm still into the Front axle well over another $1500.
 
76zimmer said:
Welcome to the Dana carrier world.:whistle:
They used a spreader on mine I know.
Click to expand...

One way I've found that works (Most of the time) is to, put a jack under the housing and jack it up so the wheels just start to come off the ground. This seems to distort the housing just enough to help pop the carrier out......Coarse I know this is useless in this situation.
 
I'm going to do all the work myself. I have the time and the tools, I think, so it shouldn't cost me that much. I'm going to run the open diff that came in it for now.

I'll need all the standard item for a rebuild but I think the carrier bearings are in good shape. Everything east and west of that is going to get replaced. I wouldn't even pull the carrier but I don't want to media blast the housing, clean out the tubes, or leave the inner seals in there.

rust1.jpg


Don't give me **** about the Coors Light can under that work bench either!! :haha:
 
My 60 rebuild was similar, carrier and even gears stayed, full blast and clean, and replaced all the wear items. Im still into my 400 axle for around a grand now :doah: and at some point I think the 1000+ ftlb's of torque are going to necessitate a 35spline upgrade :doah: :doah:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom