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Rebuilding a rusty D60

cuervo said:
lol where were you yesterday!!!


Yeah, I'll get the other one out for sure. I'll probably just heat it a little more next time and try the replacement Craftsman breaker bar I will get whrm I return this one. :eek1:
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Hey I did the same thing to my Craftsman breaker bar while removing the nuts that hold the axle shafts to the unit bearings on my dodge. :D

Sears swapped it out and the new ones are quite a bit beefier.

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I ended up hammering away with the impact that eventually broke it loose instead of sacrificing the new breaker bar...


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Heat, pour heat to it via a torch. Get that kingpin and the thread red hot and it'll usually ease on out
 
cuervo said:
Ordered a 3/4 drive 7/8 socket. Going to keep my eye on ebay for a 3/4 torque wrench. Once I get the rebuild done I'll pass the torque wrench off to someone here.
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I bought a 3/4 in breaker bar that was 42 inches long to go along with the 7/8 impact socket. Two good pulls and it broke loose. :waytogo:
 
For future easy kingpin removal just take a grinder with a wiz wheel on it and cut a groove all the way around the base about a 1/16" or less above the C. This relieves the stress created by tightening up the kingpin and you should be able to almost take it out by hand.

Long piece of small tubing/pipe with a half round piece of plate welded on the end works well for cleaning axle tubes as well.
 
You will need to give the parts gut the Bill of Materials # located on the right hand side axle tube as you face the diff cover. with that number, they should be able to tell you exactly what the diff came out of. Any Spicer parts house will be able to help you with that along with any of the parts you need. Just finished a 60 for the front of my sons Scout II.
 
Get you parts from a Spicer dealer and give them the Bill of Materials # stamped on the axle tube. That # will allow them to tell you what the diff came out of and allow them to get you allthe correct parts.
 
Sake Herder said:
Get you parts from a Spicer dealer and give them the Bill of Materials # stamped on the axle tube. That # will allow them to tell you what the diff came out of and allow them to get you allthe correct parts.
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The diff came out of a M1010 Ambulance, I pulled it myself. :waytogo:
 
It's amazing what a little clean up will do.

Sand blasted the entire housing then cleaned it out.

First go with the detroit true trac got the backlash to .011 so some more shim work to be done.

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Sake Herder said:
Did you use a housing spreader to get the proper pre-load on your carrier bearings?
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Nope, just a dead-blow hammer to get it in. After reading the specs on case spreads and that you should not spread the case more then .015 along with lots of other people doing it without a spreader I chose not buy one.
 
cuervo said:
Nope, just a dead-blow hammer to get it in. After reading the specs on case spreads and that you should not spread the case more then .015 along with lots of other people doing it without a spreader I chose not buy one.
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I built a spreader that can be used on 60's and 44's. Not sure if it will work on 70's and 80's but will find out one day. Also took a set of old carrier bearings and ground the I.D. to use as set up bearings. Makes it allot nicer not having to use a bearing seperator every time you need to change shims. We changed the king pins on my sons 60 along with bronze bushings (instead of plastic) and installed steering arm on passenger side for cross over steering. Using hummer wheels and 39.5 pit bulls on all four corners.
 
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