84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
LOL thanks, forgot I have homework, so I may not beable to do much tomorrow...I'll probably just beable to clean it, and maybe reassemble...
CK5
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Rebuilding the Quadrajet
- Thread starter 84gmcjimmy
- Start date
smalltruckbigcid
1/2 ton status
Rivets are for the choke housing. Yours has screws, so reuse those instead, makes adjusting the choke so much easier.
George
George
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
Alright thanks!
docgab
1/2 ton status
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
Alright, got back out in the shed, startting cleaning the practice one (the "new" one) and since it has been siting so long, it has a bunch of white colored stuff almost baked on the insides and the walls of all the 3 pieces...how do I get this stuff off without harming anything? I tried a little paint brush, a stiffer bristled paint brush, a old tooth brush...what else? I got a little bit off with a screw driver, but that scratched some of the metal.
HELP! Since this one I am just practicing on, I won't fully clean it. When I do need it I will buy a rebuild kit, then give it a better cleaning. At 50$ per rebuild kit here, I will wait to do the "new" one when I need it.
So I should beable to assemble the "new" one, then start on the "old" one later tonight or tomorrow.
HELP! Since this one I am just practicing on, I won't fully clean it. When I do need it I will buy a rebuild kit, then give it a better cleaning. At 50$ per rebuild kit here, I will wait to do the "new" one when I need it.
So I should beable to assemble the "new" one, then start on the "old" one later tonight or tomorrow.
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
jiminycricket said:
Nope, not on this one...I guess I could have, but by the time I remembered it was too late.
I got the "new" one all back together...the hardest part was getting the primary metering rods lined up to go into the jets. Also, for some reason, I didn't have a tiny little clip connected to the float and the needle. It either fell off previously, or I never saw it, and lost it.
I also (maybe this is old) found a trick to getting the pin back into the accelerator pump arm...I used a bicycle tire lever (used to take off the tire from the rim) and that worked better than what the book suggested, a screw driver. I think it worked better because of the curve at the tip. With the screw driver it felt like I was going to either break the screw driver (unlikely) or break part of the linkage.
Anyways...tomorrow I will start the full rebuild of the "old" one.
Was it as hard as you thought?
By the way, make sure to get that clip on the float so the needle doesn't just sit in the seat. Don't lose the small stuff!
The bike tire dealy was original, on your way to a successful Engineering career already.
By the way, make sure to get that clip on the float so the needle doesn't just sit in the seat. Don't lose the small stuff!
The bike tire dealy was original, on your way to a successful Engineering career already.
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
jiminycricket said:
When I eventually rebuild the "new" one, it will get a new clip. But I think it must have fell out or something. I never saw it in there. Oh well.
In some cases it was as hard as I imagined...but other times it was easier. It feels good now that I know how they fit together. Just need to try to remember and memorize what each part's name is...
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
Very odd... I've been meaning to post this for about a week now...time flies!
When I was dissassembling the "old" carb...prepping for rebuild...the needle once again didn't have a little clip attaching it to the float. What happens if the needle isn't attached tothe float? Is it possible it somehow decomposed or something? 2 carbs, both didn't have one (from what I saw...)
This is very weird...anyone know why?
Also, what are the wrenches called that your suposed to use on fittings like brake and gas lines? Are they just fitting wrenches or is there a special name? Thinking I should add some to the collection of tools... at Canadian Tire they were 3 for 10 or 20 bucks though... You had a choice of metric or imperial.
Thanks guys
When I was dissassembling the "old" carb...prepping for rebuild...the needle once again didn't have a little clip attaching it to the float. What happens if the needle isn't attached tothe float? Is it possible it somehow decomposed or something? 2 carbs, both didn't have one (from what I saw...)
This is very weird...anyone know why?
Also, what are the wrenches called that your suposed to use on fittings like brake and gas lines? Are they just fitting wrenches or is there a special name? Thinking I should add some to the collection of tools... at Canadian Tire they were 3 for 10 or 20 bucks though... You had a choice of metric or imperial.
Thanks guys
84gmcjimmy said:
Tubing wrenches??? Looks like a little more than an open end wrench, but a little less than a box end wrench? I guess the best way I could describe it is a box end wrench that had a portion cut out of one side.
If so, I would highly recommend using one over an open end wrench. Also don't go cheap, I had a set of generic tubing (or line) wrenches and the fit was terrible and they would deform the fittings. Spend the extra few $$ and get a good set....
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
Is that the name? it must be...I'll try not to cheap out...although I'll have to order some online since all I can find here is a brand named mastercraft...
Thanks.
Thanks.
Yes, since tubing wrenches are open, you will notice the "cheapies" flexing when you have to remove something tight, like a "frozen" fuel line fitting. The wrench end spreads and slips over the nut, just enough to take the corners off. 
I have some Craftsman ones, and some generic chinese ones. Not that Craftsman is necessarily the best, but the metal is "much" thicker (comparatively) than the cheap ones, and in practical use, does not deform under load like the Chinese ones.
This is starting to sound like one of my projects...think it will take a day or so, here we are a month later. lol
Those clips, perhaps they rusted and broke? If the carb innards were crusty, it's likely they did corrode and break, but you should find pieces somewhere in there.
I have some Craftsman ones, and some generic chinese ones. Not that Craftsman is necessarily the best, but the metal is "much" thicker (comparatively) than the cheap ones, and in practical use, does not deform under load like the Chinese ones.
This is starting to sound like one of my projects...think it will take a day or so, here we are a month later. lol
Those clips, perhaps they rusted and broke? If the carb innards were crusty, it's likely they did corrode and break, but you should find pieces somewhere in there.
Flare Wrenches
Steve,
They are called Flare wrenches or "Flare Nut" wrenches.
They are worth having. Otherwise someday you'll round off a fitting that is hard to replace and you'll wish you had bought flare wrenches. (Experience speaking here).
Good luck with the rebuild. I've been learning a lot from your thread.
-Ben
Steve,
They are called Flare wrenches or "Flare Nut" wrenches.
They are worth having. Otherwise someday you'll round off a fitting that is hard to replace and you'll wish you had bought flare wrenches. (Experience speaking here).
Good luck with the rebuild. I've been learning a lot from your thread.
-Ben
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
dyeager535 said:Yes, since tubing wrenches are open, you will notice the "cheapies" flexing when you have to remove something tight, like a "frozen" fuel line fitting. The wrench end spreads and slips over the nut, just enough to take the corners off.
I have some Craftsman ones, and some generic chinese ones. Not that Craftsman is necessarily the best, but the metal is "much" thicker (comparatively) than the cheap ones, and in practical use, does not deform under load like the Chinese ones.
This is starting to sound like one of my projects...think it will take a day or so, here we are a month later. lol
Those clips, perhaps they rusted and broke? If the carb innards were crusty, it's likely they did corrode and break, but you should find pieces somewhere in there.
In the carb I got from 79 stomper, it sat for a long time, so the insides were crusty, so I'd guess thats where the clip went...rusted and broke.
But in the carb I am actually rebuilding, it was fairly clean inside... so I don't know where it would have gone.
Alright, I will see if I can order some craftsmen, or I may just settle with some mastercraft w/ a lifetime warranty(if there is) in case they spread too far and crack/break.
LOL thanks for the luck...always need it! Your learning from my thread! Wow! thats a first
LOL it shouldn't have taken me this long, but I didn't start it for a while (I was doing the "new" carb first) then when I did I took lots of pictures and made sure I knew where everything went...then I let it soak for over a week now, I could have finished it last weekend, but I have a bad cough which is slowing me down....other than that...yeah i'm slow
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
as always I have homework, and worked a bit this weekend ($$$) so didn't get much done. Blew the 3 pieces out (get all the solvent out) then dried them. One night this week or next weekend I will re-assemble it finally.
Get to see if I need that bushing for that throttle shaft. Didn't move at all so it must be okay. I think someone has rebuilt this in the past because there was some epoxy on the bottom (forget the reason why) but the book suggested it, and it was already done...
Get to see if I need that bushing for that throttle shaft. Didn't move at all so it must be okay. I think someone has rebuilt this in the past because there was some epoxy on the bottom (forget the reason why) but the book suggested it, and it was already done...
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
Alright. Got it all together today. I could have smashed the whole carb though. I got so frustrated!! Something kept going wrong. It took me all morning and 1/3 of the day to finish from last night. Last night I worked on it for 2 hours.
Oh well. Hopefully it will work when ever I put it on!!
It cleaned up well too! What a difference compared to when I took it off.
more updates later...
Oh well. Hopefully it will work when ever I put it on!!
It cleaned up well too! What a difference compared to when I took it off.
more updates later...
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
This is getting really frustrating. I have been working on this for over a month!
Once I put the carb on the manifold, and fire it up. What will I have to adjust? Just the idle-adjustment screws, or something else too?
If I have problems can someone help me with trouble-shooting it?
thanks.
Once I put the carb on the manifold, and fire it up. What will I have to adjust? Just the idle-adjustment screws, or something else too?
If I have problems can someone help me with trouble-shooting it?
thanks.
Turn idle screws in all the way, then back them out two full turns.
I'm certain it will start and idle with that, given everything is assembled correctly. Once you establish it's going to stay running, then start with timing and idle mix.
You MIGHT need to deal with the idle set screw, at least make sure it's just contacting the throttle in case you need to bump it up some quickly.
Watch your choke as well. Hopefully won't be much of an issue for startup, but that's why I don't disassemble them unless I HAVE to. Lots of people have problems adjusting it to work correctly after a rebuild.
I'm certain it will start and idle with that, given everything is assembled correctly. Once you establish it's going to stay running, then start with timing and idle mix.
You MIGHT need to deal with the idle set screw, at least make sure it's just contacting the throttle in case you need to bump it up some quickly.
Watch your choke as well. Hopefully won't be much of an issue for startup, but that's why I don't disassemble them unless I HAVE to. Lots of people have problems adjusting it to work correctly after a rebuild.
