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recommendations and parts list for front end rebuild (89 Blazer)

clutch2k3

clutch2k3

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Hey all, just got a blazer last month, finally got all the smells out of it and now I'm ready to dig in and make it drive better.

I'm looking for a list of recommended parts to replace in the front end like diff fluid & gasket, axle bearings, inner bearings, races & seals, outer bearings, u joints, shocks, ... Besides making it reliable for the family, a problem I'm trying to solve is that it wobbles (side to side I think) starting at 50 MPH and gets pretty bad by 60 MPH. I had the wheels balanced (they ended up being way out of balance) but after the balance, the wobble started at a lower speed and was more pronounced (problem got worse, not better).

I also narrowed down the source of loose steering to the steering box and I tightened the allen bolt 3/4 of a turn and the steering is acceptable now. I don't think I want to mess with crossover steering because we don't plan on doing any serious off-roading, we're just using it to drive the family around town for now.

Any help is appreciated, thanks in advanced
 
Welcome aboard!
show us some pics when you can?
Does the K5 have stock size tires/suspension?
With the vehicle on the ground have someone cycle the steering back and forth while inspecting all steering joint system connections for looseness.
Then with vehicle off the ground check upper/lower balljoints, and spindle bearings.
Although you had the tires balanced inspect them real good for out of round (spin them on the vehicle and use a stationary item like a ruler taped to the fender and indexed on top of the tire). Check for cupping or odd wear patterns. Opening up the diffs is probably a good idea to check on overall diff condition, and fresh fluid never hurts. Think about getting some Lube Locker reusable gaskets too. Look for evidence of leakage at the axleshaft ujoints, and into the tubes for possible inner seal leaks. Doing hubs and bearing service might be a good idea for peace of mind. Get yourself a spindle nut socket and inspect everything.
good luck!
 
Last edited:
76zimmer said:
Welcome aboard!
show us some pics when you can?
Does the K5 have stock size tires/suspension?
With the vehicle on the ground have someone cycle the steering back and forth while inspecting all steering joint system connections for looseness.
Then with vehicle off the ground check upper/lower balljoints, and spindle bearings.
Although you had the tires balanced inspect them real good for out of round (spin them on the vehicle and use a stationary item like a ruler taped to the fender and indexed on top of the tire). Check for cupping or odd wear patterns. Opening up the diffs is probably a good idea to check on overall diff condition, and fresh fluid never hurts. Think about getting some Lube Locker reusable gaskets too. Look for evidence of leakage at the axleshaft ujoints, and into the tubes for possible inner seal leaks. Doing hubs and bearing service might be a good idea for peace of mind. Get yourself a spindle nut socket and inspect everything.
good luck!
Click to expand...
great advice. Your the second person that's suggested checking for out of round tires (and surprisingly, did not mention the steering dampener).

These items will keep me busy for a while.

forgive dumb question: Is there a sub section here for posting pics? I've actually redone the interior and spent a lot of time rebuilding the steering column, I'd be happy to share the pics I took along the way.
 
Definitely inspect the wheel bearings, spindles, ball joints, tie rod ends, and drag link ends. The frame where the steering box bolts need inspection for cracks.
Above is standard wear areas on any mono beam front axle.
All of the spring eye bushings, shackle bushings. Cross bolt should be centered in the bushing, bushing centered in spring eye(side to side) few to no cracks.
Axle location checked and ubolts tightness checked.
Round tires are a must if truck sits for extended periods over inflate tires for storage.

Welcome to CK5 @clutch2k3
Driveway build thread so we can follow along
 
clutch2k3 said:
Thanks for all the great tips! I just got some bigger jack stands for this beast and I'll start a build thread soon.
Click to expand...
Just wait till you get the bug, suddenly, your truck gets so big, that normal jackstands aren't big enough and you have to buy a farm jack because your floor jack doesn't go high enough.
 
Whats the easiest way to upload a bunch of pics all at once (i paid $35 for a membership a couple days ago)? I didn't find the driveway builder thing very intuitive and I don't think it accepts the MP4s that come out of my phone.

as far as the steering column pics, I broke a bolt in the passenger side pivot pin and then broke a drill bit trying to get the broken bolt out. I had to weld some stuff to it and use a slide hammer to get it out (welding is the only reason I removed the column from the truck). I bought the only replacement pivot pin I could find (evilbay) and didn't realize until I tried to install it that it was an "oversize" pin (+ .005" I think?). I ended up just putting the wrecked pin back in there. I'll just buy a welding blanket and cover up the interior next time i have to remove it. but if i need to remove those pivot pins again in this lifetime I've done something seriously wrong. I replaced all the switches and the lever too. Rebuilding a steering column was one one of most difficult car projects I've tackled. I think engine & transmission work is easier.
 
Wes Harden said:
Definitely inspect the wheel bearings, spindles, ball joints, tie rod ends, and drag link ends. The frame where the steering box bolts need inspection for cracks.
Above is standard wear areas on any mono beam front axle.
All of the spring eye bushings, shackle bushings. Cross bolt should be centered in the bushing, bushing centered in spring eye(side to side) few to no cracks.
Axle location checked and ubolts tightness checked.
Round tires are a must if truck sits for extended periods over inflate tires for storage.

Welcome to CK5 @clutch2k3
Driveway build thread so we can follow along
Click to expand...
76zimmer said:
Welcome aboard!
show us some pics when you can?
Does the K5 have stock size tires/suspension?
With the vehicle on the ground have someone cycle the steering back and forth while inspecting all steering joint system connections for looseness.
Then with vehicle off the ground check upper/lower balljoints, and spindle bearings.
Although you had the tires balanced inspect them real good for out of round (spin them on the vehicle and use a stationary item like a ruler taped to the fender and indexed on top of the tire). Check for cupping or odd wear patterns. Opening up the diffs is probably a good idea to check on overall diff condition, and fresh fluid never hurts. Think about getting some Lube Locker reusable gaskets too. Look for evidence of leakage at the axleshaft ujoints, and into the tubes for possible inner seal leaks. Doing hubs and bearing service might be a good idea for peace of mind. Get yourself a spindle nut socket and inspect everything.
good luck!
Click to expand...

The tires are 32X11.5R15 (idk the stock tire size) and I would guess its been lifted a bit by looking at it.

When checking the axle location, I just use a tape measure to make sure its centered in the wheel wells and left-to-right, correct?

For servicing the axleshafts, does anybody have pictures or a video for replacing axleshaft bearings and seals on an 89 blazer? Do these axle shafts have both inner and outer bearings and seals? I thought they only have one bearing and seal on each side just behind the spindle/ujoint. These are the parts I plan on buying for the axleshaft:
- Axle shaft seal, NATIONAL 5131
- Axle shaft bearing, TIMKEN B2012

I plan on buying these U joints: MOOG-Greaseable-Premium-369-U-joint (1310)

For the front hubs and bearings, I found the Vortex Garage Ep. 22, Hubs, Bearings on a Squarebody Chevy youtube video and plan on buying these parts:
- power built 648473 spindle nut socket
- Warn Manual hubs, 20990
- Warn spindle nut kit, 32720
- Seal, Timken 471271
- outer bearing & race, timken set45
- Inner bearing, timken LM104949
- Inner race, timken JLM104910

Thanks again for all the help so far.
 
The axle seals are serviced from inside the pumpkin, you must remove the ring gear carrier to do the "Axle" seals. Front wheel bearing seals are just remove hub.
The axle shaft bearing Timken b2012 I am not sure which you mean, in any case that appears to be a T case bearing.

Starting about here I did my front axle D44 from the ball joints out exactly the same as a 10bolt

Wes's Burb build/update/maintance

Been farting around with doing the front diff for a month or more. Not everyday, and I seem to get side tracked with other projects. Today I ran patterns. My 1st try at backlash ended up at .005 spec is .006 to .010. next try got me .010. Adjusted backlash to .007. Front axle standard...
ck5.com ck5.com

Not which u joint you wish to replace. the axle u joints or the front drive shaft ? Axle shaft u joint is Dana Spicer 5-760x
 
Wes Harden said:
The axle seals are serviced from inside the pumpkin, you must remove the ring gear carrier to do the "Axle" seals. Front wheel bearing seals are just remove hub.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up on the axle shaft seals/bearings. I didn't understand them at all. only axle I've ever worked on is a 71 elco and its a lot different than a k5 blazer front axle!!

I watched the ending of this vid like 5 times and was finally able to understand how it's set up from seeing the shiny and non-shiny parts of the axle shaft as he pulled it out.
 
76zimmer said:
Think about getting some Lube Locker reusable gaskets too
Click to expand...
For replacing front & rear diff fluid:
- Whats the part number for a Front Lube Locker gasket? How about the part number for the Rear Lube Locker gasket? I'm having a hard time finding these.
- I have 1.5 qts of Valvoline 773732 High Performance Gear Oil 80W-90 but I should **NOT** use it on the blazer, correct?
- I should use Valvoline SynPower Full Synthetic 75W-90, correct?
- I'll need 5 qts total for front & rear diffs, correct? (2.5 qts ea.)
- Does either the front or rear diffs require any limited slip additive?
 
Assuming it Still has oem 10 bolt Axles (count the cover bolts and they look like this red circled one.)
If you take off the covers we can tell what the diffs are w a few pics.

oem 10 bolts take 2+ qts empty, so if you get 5 that will do it. 1985 GM service manual calls for 80-90 GL-5. Regular oil is fine, Synthetic is great, and if you have a gov lock diff, you’ll need the 4-6oz bottle of limited slip additive.

this is the lubelocker gaskets…https://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUB-LLR-G850/applications

7FE56412-4020-462A-8B8B-35F71437C2E1.jpeg
 
wait I always hear Don't use limited slip modifier in the G80 gov locks ? I am not using on either of my 14bff, G80 gov locks.
 
1985 GM manual calls for it on limited slip differential (G80)
 
clutch2k3 said:
For replacing front & rear diff fluid:
- Whats the part number for a Front Lube Locker gasket? How about the part number for the Rear Lube Locker gasket? I'm having a hard time finding these.
- I have 1.5 qts of Valvoline 773732 High Performance Gear Oil 80W-90 but I should **NOT** use it on the blazer, correct?
- I should use Valvoline SynPower Full Synthetic 75W-90, correct?
- I'll need 5 qts total for front & rear diffs, correct? (2.5 qts ea.)
- Does either the front or rear diffs require any limited slip additive?
Click to expand...
For limited slip additives you only need them if you have a limited slip, which in my whole life found blazer with it, so it's rare.
When you remove the cover to drain the fluid and inspect you can tell if it's a limited slip if you see the clutches and springs.
As for the gear oil, you can use 80w-90.
That was the spec before the synthetic came out
 
Thanks so much for the help all. I'm about to buy a bunch of stuff and put the blazer in the garage for prob 2-4 weeks to get all this done (I only have a few hours a night to work on it).

While waiting for responses to this thread, I found this eye-opening thread that got into "gov bombs". Appears that they don't have clutches/friction-plates so they don't need LSD addtive but I'm just a newb.

Thanks again!
 
Wes Harden said:
The axle seals are serviced from inside the pumpkin, you must remove the ring gear carrier to do the "Axle" seals. Front wheel bearing seals are just remove hub.
The axle shaft bearing Timken b2012 I am not sure which you mean, in any case that appears to be a T case bearing.

Starting about here I did my front axle D44 from the ball joints out exactly the same as a 10bolt

Wes's Burb build/update/maintance

Been farting around with doing the front diff for a month or more. Not everyday, and I seem to get side tracked with other projects. Today I ran patterns. My 1st try at backlash ended up at .005 spec is .006 to .010. next try got me .010. Adjusted backlash to .007. Front axle standard...
ck5.com ck5.com

Not which u joint you wish to replace. the axle u joints or the front drive shaft ? Axle shaft u joint is Dana Spicer 5-760x
Click to expand...
I believe he is referring to the spindle bearing
 
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