Replace drag link and sleeve

[TJ1978]

I have new moog parts and I ordered the ORD Kevlar bushing. Can I just replace the squashed rubber piece or should I change the entire thing out with the new moog parts?

Best practice to replace just the rubber?

Also best way to replace the entire thing and have it all line up properly including the angle and tie rods depth in the sleeve?

 

[obijuank5]

A little bit of anti seize on the drag link end threads for fun. It may or may not help you one day. I still use it even though I’m in Texas.

Run one end ten turns into the sleeve then do the other one ten turns into the sleeve so the sleeve is centered in it’s adjustment on each drag link end. Just put the new Kevlar boots on. They just slip over the stud.
You can get center to center measurement on your current drag link to get you in the area you need to be. Then adjust as needed after you install it with the sleeve.
Those nuts need to be impacted on and then put the pin in the hole. It’s not like a trailer wheel bearing lol. Seen that so many times.

 

[sweetk30]

thats a DRAG LINK ............. box to axle = drag link . . . only effects center position of steering wheel .

tie-rod is knuckle to knuckle for setting toe and can kill tire wear if set wrong .

 

[TJ1978]

thats a DRAG LINK ............. box to axle = drag link . . . only effects center position of steering wheel .

tie-rod is knuckle to knuckle for setting toe and can kill tire wear if set wrong .

That's what I thought but moogs site says tie rod inner and outer

 

[Wes Harden]

If you read a gm service manual then go to the gm parts manual, the same part will have 2 different names. Engineers, Bean Counters, and editor/publisher all speak different languages.

Though in an aftermarket company, esp a Chinesium one and all bets are off.

Only correct nomenclature is here at CK5. So replace that Do-hicky soon

 

[TJ1978]

Should I use some PB blaster prior?

 

[Fastereddie]

Should I use some PB blaster prior?

Always!

 

[Wes Harden]

Pb blaster never hurts when disassembling

 

[TJ1978]

Then use a hammer to separate? Bash it real good?

 

[Fastereddie]

Then use a hammer to separate? Bash it real good?

Till either it or you squeal haha.

 

[Fastereddie]

Seriously though, hit the side of the knuckle where the the taper goes through it like it owes you money and it should jump right out

 

[Fastereddie]

 

[TJ1978]

I watched this seems fairly straight forward. Not sure why he keeps going about alignment in the comments but...

 

[sweetk30]

i dont use pb blaster anymore as its not as good as it use to be .

i buy this and like it a lot better . also a bit more oily for a little lube .

 

[TJ1978]

Drag boots arrived. Will install after steering box frame plates are welded on

 

[Blue85]

Best practice to replace just the rubber?

If the DLE is still tight and in good shape, it's fine to replace just a cut boot, especially if it's an AC Delco Gold / GM OEM. Of course, a cut boot implies some contamination has happened, so it depends on how long it's been like that. I save good used boots just for this purpose.

Best practice is to not put parts store brand or other generic joints on.

 

[TJ1978]

probably a lame question but which piece goes where? One is longer.
Which one goes to the pitman arm shorter or longer?

 

[cheavyk10]

The shorter one goes towards the front of the truck.
Also that's a drag link not a tie rod. The title of the thread throws me off every time LOL

 

[TJ1978]

The shorter one goes towards the front of the truck.
Also that's a drag link not a tie rod. The title of the thread throws me off every time LOL

Yeah I know I'll change it

 

[TJ1978]

Just hit the ends with a hammer to get them out or I've read pickle fork but the pickle could cause other damage?