there is enough play, they are coiled. if you are worried unbolt the master from the booster. No need to open the hydraulic system
CK5
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replacing body mount bushings
- Thread starter riv1973
- Start date
I did a 3" body lift on my jeep wagoneer, and I loosened both sides then took one side off and lifted in the middle and the whole side went up evenly.
I just did my bushings I had to jack each side of the cab up, separately, about 8.5 inches to get the original bushings out and install the new bushings.
I used my farm jack to provide the lift. The bolts all came right out. I cleaned and painted all the surfaces that the bushings came off in contact with.
I used a my half inch impact tightening the bolts until they squashed the new bushings by 1/2 inches. With a dab of red axle grease on each bolt to cut down on the whole corrosion thing.
I did not loosen or move any brake lines. No problems.
I used my farm jack to provide the lift. The bolts all came right out. I cleaned and painted all the surfaces that the bushings came off in contact with.
I used a my half inch impact tightening the bolts until they squashed the new bushings by 1/2 inches. With a dab of red axle grease on each bolt to cut down on the whole corrosion thing.
I did not loosen or move any brake lines. No problems.
Was this on a K5?
On Chloe, my K10 project truck
As you can see the original bushings are trash. I’m also cutting out cancer and replacing it with good metal.
I'm using new rubber mounts from LMC made in Taiwan. The metal on the new rubber mounts is not painted. I'm wondering if I should spray some paint on the new mounts.
Unless you like rust.
I also drilled a drain hole in the cup washers and cut small grooves to allow anything that gets in them to drain out. The old ones I pulled out had a lot of rust inside, I figured it was from lack of ventilation/drainage. Seems to have worked the last 20 years.
