Are you sure? That’s the driving pulley not the driven.thats the wrong pulley. the 2 inside will turn slower, if you use that pulley.
Are you sure? That’s the driving pulley not the driven.thats the wrong pulley. the 2 inside will turn slower, if you use that pulley.
That’s what I was sayingyes if the drive pulley is larger the driven pulley will turn faster, at the same engine rpms
Maybe I misread what you said.My 73 has the larger pulley like this one. I'm pretty confident it was on there from the factory.
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I did says slower in first post, which is wrong. I thought I said wrong speed. I had to think about it after you called me on it lolThat’s what I was sayingMaybe I misread what you said.
I have put them in the same way you did the first time with no ill affects. But if you want you could build an install tool with some allthread or a long bolt that goes in the crank, then put your socket over it with a washer and nut.Let's talk about installing a new seal again. I am going to try to do something like using the installer or bolt and a seal press or socket to press the seal in so I don't have to hammer it from an awkward angle like from under or above. I have a cheap bearing and seal press kit and a nice Mac Tools Seal press kit, but neither has a billet collar with a hole big enough for the crankshaft.
I read somewhere that putting the seal in the freezer overnight would help? From a physics standpoint it sounds like it might, but has anybody done that before? The problem is this thin timing cover with no bracing on the back...and I really don't want to take the water pump and timing cover off.
So if you find a piece of tubing to match the seal diameter and longer than the crank snout by 1/2" you can use the center bolt hole with a large washer to install the seal.
Put seal in place, tubing, washer, bolt, ( the orignal bolt will be to long) tight bolt to press the seal in. do not let the tubing turn. hold with a pipe wrench or weld a handle something like that.